When to start watering perennials. When to fertilize and how?
illinigirl
19 years ago
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grannymarsh
19 years agoRelated Discussions
when to start spring fertilizing
Comments (2)FN's advice seems good to me. By type of N, he means urea or ammonium and not nitrate for blueberries if you are going quick release. Fertilize according to need, some soils don't need much help for some species (pears are more susceptible to fireblight when growing very vigorously). If trees or bushes are mature and you are feeding for fruit and not leaves and wood, quick release N is best, about a week before first growth (although the window extends a couple weeks). Urea doesn't need to be dissolved but does need to be watered in. I apply right before rain when possible. Commercial growers often use urea made for foliar application and spray the trees to get N directly to spur leaves at first growth. I think the best source of quick release organic N is your own urine, which is also very high in K. I save mine for the purpose but in our sterile modern world this is often not acceptable. My wife is certainly not crazy about the idea....See MoreIn New England, when do I start preemergent/fertilizer treatment?
Comments (4)40,000 square feet? An Acre?? Okay. Apply any preemergent you can find when the forsythia are in bloom. I don't like products that mix materials like herbicide and fertilizer together. I think you get more bang for the buck by sticking with the single products and timing them specifically for their target capability. Fertilize any time after you have mowed real grass (not weeds) for the second time. In Maine I would wait until Memorial Day. Why? Because the nutrients developed in the soil over the winter will be mostly exhausted by then. If you fertilize before the grass starts to grow you are wasting fertilizer on the early weeds. If you fertilize just as the grass starts to grow, then instead of having grass growing at twice the normal rate, you have it growing at 3x or 4x the normal rate. That means a LOT more frequent mowing to keep it under 3-4 inches. If you acre is under automatic sprinkler system (which I doubt), you can do yourself a favor and cut the frequency back to no more than once a week during the heat of summer and once a month up until it gets hot. That will allow the surface of the soil to dry out which stops weed seeds from germinating. Set your mower to the highest position. That will develop deeper roots to get you through the hot part of summer. Then when it gets hot, stop mowing altogether. Wait until the heat breaks and come back to mow carefully so as not to scalp it. Tall grass also provides more shade to shade out any weed seedlings that might have sprouted. The watering and mowing described above should be a strong deterrent to crabgrass. An acre of grass? Have you considered alternatives to so much grass? I have a long list of alternatives that can break up your expanse of turf if you are interested. I know this is the lawn forum, and lawns are my hobby, but to me there is not much that is less interesting than an unbroken acre of grass....See MoreWatering and fertilizing...Start when?
Comments (8)ruthann1, There are as many fertilizer routines as there are people it seems and these become a growers choice. With that said, most will work to some degree and plants will prosper with this "out of environment" extra attention that they receive. However, I would like to point out a few facts about plant nutrients and fertilizer. One can give plants fertilizers and minerals and say this should work I gave my plants all the "right food" for whatever the need. A different way of starting plants to grow from dormancy. We at one time began the plants feeding regimen with mag followed by a higher dose of nitrogen as per what was advised by most. We found this was a mistake for us. We found for earlier flowering and stronger stem growth targeting the root promotion first worked best. To illustrate; recently in my old stomping grounds of Encino, California a beautiful home slid down a hill and was destroyed. Why? The foundation and the ground preparation was faulty. The roots are the foundation of your plants. And the seasons success is dependent on a good root system. If foliage is not present AND functioning the mag will be stored in the plant and do nothing. In addition the percentage of up-take of the mag is minimal at best through the root system. In addition, phosphate delivered by any type of pelletized fertilizer will not be available until very late fall or the next year. The reason is phosphate ions break down and move very slowly in the soil/media and travel less than 1/2 inch in a season. Unless the pelletized fertilizer is mixed throughout the soil/media there is very little chance of the phosphate getting to the root system. We deliver all our container nutrients by liquid fertilizer as to spread the ions throughout the media within the pot. In this way the plant has the food available to the roots. Also, by liquid fertilizer the grower knows exactly the amount of fertilizer (ppm's) his plants are getting. We start the spring routine with a liquid fertilizer low in nitrogen and balanced in phosphate and potassium including many micro nutrients. When the foliage develops we foliar feed with mag and fertilizer in combination. The intake of mag through the foliage is over one thousand times faster by foliage feeding then through the roots. Just a few thoughts for the grower....See MoreWhen to start fertilizing....
Comments (10)My $.02! I bring my plants out for sunshine when the nighttime temps. stay consitently (for the most part!) above 50 at night. During that time, the day time temps, here in S. Texas will warm up quickly. I give them a good watering w/ Super Thrive. As they begin to grow (show actual growth at the tips) you can begin fertilizing. They will need to regrow small feeder roots whether you have kept them in a pot or removed them from soil for overwintering. The best explaination of feeding I have ever heard came from a grower in California. He recommended 1/4 strength water soluable fert. everytime you water, explained this way 'would you rather have your meals 3 times a day or once a month?' It make sense to fert. in smaller doses more often. There are as many different fertilizers out there as there are growers (well almost). This year I will be using a time release 13x13x13 as I have heard over the last several years they really don't need that high middle number, will see how they perform. For more growing/fertilizer/care information you can check out www.theplumeriasociety.org Happy Growing Karen (the other KarenB in Texas) Here is a link that might be useful: The Plumeria Society of America...See MoreGardenKiwi
19 years agoMissy, Traverse City, Mi Z5
19 years agokaren_w
19 years agoMissy, Traverse City, Mi Z5
19 years agoLynn s
9 years agoAnneCecilia z5 MI
9 years ago
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