Somebody has to do this...... Because she is most thorough, I would nominate Bestlawn, if she will accept. But that gentleman simply MUST be receiving a written certificate, and honorary Presidency, of this forum. We can discuss later the certificate, the signers, the language, and we will not leave anyone out who wants to be in. If there is some small cost, I will volunteer first (there will likely be more volunteers, but I really do not mind if there are not) and pay those costs. But that man cannot go un-noticed by this forum. Can't be done. Mallory, could you please reach the media outlet, and obtain the gentleman's name and address? We don't need it publicly, we just need to know that you have it. That's step one. Steps two through whatever will come afterward, and you all should please give it some thought. But the Lawn Forum? Our Lawn Forum? The Internet's Most Supreme (and most sublime) Lawn Forum? We have to do something appropriate. All of you: Your thoughts, please.

Good info. Be sure you have no leaks in your sprinkler system and that the sprinklers are throwing the water and not dribbling. The 90 degree F temp was too high to use any chemicals. That's why the fungicide didn't work. Read the label and you'll find you are very limited as to the times of year they claim it works. In Texas that time of year is about Valentine's Day. The rest of the time it is too rainy or too hot. Since 2002 I have been very happy using ordinary corn meal to kill disease in my lawn. Cracked corn works fine, too. Corn gluten meal is a similar sounding material but costs a lot more and does not seem to take care of the disease. Ordinary corn meal is what I'm talking about. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet and water it down (not in). Just wash it off the grass and you're done. Reapply in 3 weeks and any disease should be gone in a month. The corn is a biological approach that brings in microbes that feed on the disease microbes. This time if year you should be watering no more than once a month in northern Utah. That should be a deep watering of about an inch. When you get an inch of rain, then you don't need to water. I hate rain birds. The only advantage they have is being able to throw water upwind. My absolute favorite sprinkler is the oscillator. The new turbo oscillator sprinklers are great. I have five of them at two houses and will be getting a sixth next spring. They apply water very evenly and very slowly to allow it to soak in without runoff. For a rectangular yard like yours, they would be perfect. Mow at about 3.5 inches when you mow. If you want to use Scott's chemical fertilizers, follow the directions for timing. I think you went a little heavy in the past 6 weeks. If you want to apply organic fertilizers that frequently, GO FOR IT. You cannot over apply organics, and they just make the soil better and better. Generally lawns need nitrogen once in the spring and twice in the fall. The twice in the fall come once after the summer heat breaks and again right before dormancy. Your timing in the past 6 weeks seems too close together but it might have been exactly right. Just seems close together. One of the lawn gurus on another forum has tried to overdose with organic fertilizer. He's applied up to 50 pound per 1,000 square feet per week for every week of the growing season. The only thing that happened is his KBG lawn remained green deep into December and greened up again in January. From that experiment I say you cannot overdose with organics. Try that with chemicals and you'll sterilize your soil for years. If you want to take your lawn to the next level (once you have control over it), get a soil test at Logan Labs in Ohio. Their $20 test is much better than most university or county extension service tests costing up to 5x more.

if your goal.. is mowing the lawn.. as you state that is your NEED ... then mow the lawn.. and who cares what happens to them .. the alternative is that when they start to yellow... you dig them up.. and that wont be fun... and plant them in a bed ... where your NEED will be fulfilled ... a different way of saying what flora said.. was that after flowering.. they are using the green leaves.. to store energy in the bulb for next year ... if you do not allow them to store such ... then they will be weaker next year.. if not disappear altogether ... define your NEED... and act accordingly ... but you cant have both.. as they are planted now ... and you can move them now.. and disturb the storage process ... good luck .... did you inherit this with a new house???? .. if so.. get rid of them.. no need to cope with someone elses mistake.. when you have other needs ... ken ps: this is why planting them in the lawn.. is not the best idea... if you have tendencies towards the ultimate lawn warrior.. where grass rules supreme ... its a look that works better.. when your lawn is hundreds of feet deep.. and you can put them way the heck out there.. where you cant see the long grass .. and dont care ... IMHO.. it really doesnt work in suburbia ... not to mention.. in warrior mode... you cant use weed killers etc ... as these would be considered weeds to a grass-aholic ....

Here in the clay, trees are holding their own. No real rain since around the 5th of June. South of us got rain, but you've seen some of the posts of the wind that accompanied the rain. No thank you. Although July has been over 90F every day but one, and 5 reached over 100F here, this is a year that I am glad for the heavy soils. The Oxydendrum arboreum is in bloom, such that they are. Pawpaws are filling out nicely even though the stream nearby is dry. The ground under them is actually still moist, so the fruit is doing well. Ditto the nuts on the White Walnut (J. cinerea. Hanging on and filling out. European alder is recovering from the pruning the deer gave it. Another wetland species that is still in good shape is Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), blooming for the first time this year. Once the ground down there gets wet, it takes all summer to get really dry. The down side is that years with a lot of rain, the ground stays wet on top, and the grass is squishy all summer. I don't know how anything grows down there. Once you break through the sod level (about 2 inches), it is solid clay that could be cut into bricks and used for building materials. Amending a hole here is a joke, all you do is make a waterhole. Small trees are simply planted into the slot you make with a shovel. Step on the sides to close the slot, and voila!, a tree is planted. You will find out how old you are if you try to dig a hole. The Swamp red oak from Oikos has finally grown past the browsing level of the deer and is still putting on new leaves. This tree colors up as well as any Maple. Nyssa sylvatica provides lots of browse for the deer, but they too have grown past deer mouth height. Once you get one tree started, it will make a small grove, and you can prune it to keep a bigger tree in the middle of a shorter, much browsed clump. Qurecus nigra, a Southern Oak, and Carya ovata, Shagbark Hickory both are struggling to get above deer level. Last fall, we saw where two bucks must have fought. Two sets of footprints, with the smaller pair sliding backwards. Before or after the fight, one of them attacked the Q. nigra and it went from a nice 5ft specimen to an 18" stub. Did I mention I hate deer?