I don't believe the roses themselves would leave any residue that should affect the soil negatively. However, if you were doing some of the heavy duty applications (i.e. lots of high P bloom booster fertilizer or soil drenchs of pesticides that rose exhibitors sometimes do) that could have some negative affects on your soil. If you were just applying fertilizer & mulch like you would to a normal shrub planting, should be no problem. I would do a soil test to see if you have a pH or nutrient problem. Also is there some large tree with invasive roots nearby? They love to invade a rose bed that has been watered & mulched.

Some plants that have done well for me in dry situations: They aren't very formal, but rugosa roses have a strong, sweet scent, beautiful foliage, and large red hips. They only bloom once, but I like them quite a bit. Flowers are single or double in shades of pink, magenta and white. They sucker some and have wicked thorns, but will grow in beach sand. Penstemon pinifolius is a relatively short plant with typical tubular penstemon flowers in early summer in shades of red, orange, and yellow and fine needle-like foliage. If you typically have good snow cover, it is worth trying Caryopteris which I have found works for me, rather to my surprise: small tidy shrub, late summer violet-blue flowers, and either silver or gold foliage. In the coldest areas it works more like a perennial, dying back to the ground each year. 'Arthur Simmonds' has trialled as the hardiest selection, though I haven't grown it. (available at Lazy S's Nursery via mail order.) I have 'Sunshine Blue' with gold foliage which experiences some dieback but comes back every year and either 'First Choice' or 'Dark Knight' which has survived just fine for several seasons. This does better than lavender for me which survives, but takes too long to recover to look good most seasons. I do replant lavender (small inexpensive plants) most years and it grows well as an annual since the insects and humming birds like it. The only western Agastache that has survived at least one winter for me has been A. rupestris. It is a short-lived perennial for me, lasting at most 4 or 5 years, but I really like the silvery foliage and August salmon and smoky lavender blooms, so I replace it when it hasn't survived a winter. You may find that some of the blue Agastaches work for you, but I haven't grown them since they have a reputation for self-seeding. I have had Weigela grow well on a completely unwatered slope, so it should be fine. However, the Cornus kousa that is in an unwatered dry spot doesn't look nearly as nice as the one in a more average setting, and the serviceberry that I planted in a dry spot died the second season, despite my hauling water to it all of its first season. Lonicera sempervirens 'Major Wheeler' is a long-blooming, bright red selection of a native vine that does fine without supplemental water in a well-drained bed. I have only had mine a couple of years, but I really like it. It should do fine being trimmed to its support, an iron trellis of 3/8" rod, if I decide it needs it. Daffodils should be fine if you are looking for spring bulbs. Plants that others have mentioned that have also done well for me in well-drained situations include bearded iris, flax, rose campion (though it self-seeds ferociously unless deadheaded), coreopsis (both lanceolata and verticillata), daylily, Baptisia, Liatris, Sedum, Semperivirens, Amsonia hubrichtii, Nepeta/catmint, Alyssum, and columbine.

i like the creeping junipers for such areas. some cultivars are very low-growing and they also are available in different shades of green with bluish, gold and grayish tones, with some changing toward purple or reddish in cold weather. it doesn't like foot traffic and neither would you like walking on it (prickly stuff!) but it is tough and durable and can be very attractive. paths through it would be fine, though. contrary to the article, i never see weeds coming into the beds of it around town. Here is a link that might be useful: creeping junipers

PROPER WATERING SHOULD BE YOUR ONLY CONCERN .... and the only secondary concern.. is your ability to NOT love them to death .... pines thrive in MI .... put that part out of your head ... proper watering means the ability to get water to the roots that were all cut off for transplant .... and then allowing them to nearly dry before watering again .. while avoiding.... them standing in water for extended periods of time ... compared to our brethren who have clay .. you have great drainage .... even if some storm fills the hole.. full drainage within one day should be OK .... my bigger concern might be blacktop in february ... my kids walk around out there in single digits temps without shoes on sunny days... because the blacktop is so warm .. relatively speaking .... it is not good when the dormant frozen trees roots are brought out of dormancy due to heating of the blacktop .... you may want to consider some burlap along the south side ... to shade the soil from winter sun ... perhaps a new post regarding such .. if no one else chimes in here ... water properly ... deeply.. infrequently .... and nearly drying ... and you should be all set for summer and fall .. then start thinking about winter .... you live in MI .. you have been up north .... once you get north of flint.. pines cover most of the rest of the state ... with little or no help from humans ... ergo.. the suggestion that you dont love yours to death .... deal with the transplants issues .... and the tree will take care of the rest .... good luck ken