I grew lots of different hardy geraniums "two houses ago" (having moved 3 times in five years didn't give me a chance to do much with the other garden) and am starting on the garden here at my new place. My favorite is G. pratense var. striatum which is often sold as "Splish Splash". Not sure whether it comes true from seed or not. The flower is described either as blue with white flecks or white with blue flecks and stripes (take your choice! :-). Like all the pratense's, it can get tall and rangy looking if not cut back somewhat after flowering. It's a good plant for a mixed border with other plants of some decent height, such as the taller campanulas. Geranium cantabrigiense is a super all-purpose border and edging plant. The different varieties such as Biokova (or Biokovo), St. Ola, etc., all go well with each other. There is also a white form, or there used to be. It is larger overall than New Hampshire purple. Geranium 'Ann Folkard' is great if you like intense dark magenta flowers with a black eye, and a lot more compact than G. psilostemon with gets to be about three times the size. That said, there's nothing quite like a few G. psilostemon plants in the border to stop traffic (I saw some once that were almost 4 feet tall and threatening to smother the lilies!). I also like the varieties such as G. macrorrhizum and maculatum which have very nice reddish fall color. Not all of the hardy geraniums do. 'Ann Folkard', for instance, just goes yellower. If you really want to get into hardy geraniums, there are two REALLY good books: 'Hardy Geraniums' by Peter Yeo (Timber Press, 1985) and 'The Gardener's Guide to Growing Hardy Geraniums' by Trevor Bath and Joy Jones (David & Charles Publishing, 1994). You can also join The Geraniaceae Group which is based in Dover, Kent, England. They publish a quarterly newsletter and have an annual seedlist. Originally they were part of the British Geranium and Pelargonium Society Group (divison of the RHS) but separated off during the mid or late 1980s and became a separate entity. There is, in fact, a link to some more info here on Gardenweb. Here is a link that might be useful: Geraniaceae Group information

How about that....I have the two exact trees...I'm always commenting on "unter der linden"....well under my linden I cant for the life of me grow grass. I've cut back the lower branches and I keep the undersides clear of debris....which da*n it it seems everyday I pick up branches. This tree is the worse....even worse than silver maple. But I cant grow grass under it....and I've tried...numerous years overseeding and once the grass grew mightily....only to die back before winter set in. I cant imagine there is a worse spot to grow something like the geranium between it and a Norway Maple. Also, I cant imagine how the ground between these water beasts lets it gain 'wetness'....ttrees in general are notorious for being water hungry. Its never a good idea to plant where the ground is forever wet...pretty soon, the roots are not able to take up any further water---even when they are surrounded by water. Just like overwatering a houseplant...too much water causes the roots to stop taking up water and eventually the plant has problems....often dieing because of it.

I doubt something so newly planted will provide enough substance for division at this time, unless you bought very large plants to begin with. Generally, hardy perennials are not divided until after several seasons in the ground. And I would be careful about over generalizing with the growing conditions requred by hardy geraniums. There are so many different species and hybrids and each has its own preferences. Speaking very broadly, most hardy geraniums will be happiest in sun to light shade and with moisture retentive but well draining soils. With very few exceptions, I'd not consider these plants to be especially drought tolerant. Rather than pinching, most hardy geraniums will benefit from a close shearing after the initial bloom flush. They will rapidly produce new foliage and often a rebloom. This can be done immediately as they bloom, no need to wait for a season or two. But I would wait for a season or two before I elected to divide.

Feeling a tad disconsolate at my gappy garden myself and pondering falling back on the faithful hardies...but really, I think you can do a bit better than the ubiquitous macrorrhizum...unless you can get your hands on the outstanding White Ness - a compact and very floriferous pure white. The wallichianums do rather well in shade...although I agree, I am heartily sick of Rozanne...but there are others such as the neat Sweet Heidi or the pink Syabru and also, Lilac Ice - not as prolific as some wallichianums but distinctly better than the pale Crystal Lake. There are some interesting shorter bloomers such as platyanthemum and, my new favourite, soboliferum which will do OK in shade. Maculatum, obvs, but also magnificum and Himalayense are sterling performers, good for a second flush with nice foliage. If you have space, there are some good oxonianums with larger flowers (Robin Moss in the UK has been doing wonders with this group) and Patricia is a good doer, even in a shade-y spot. I must also put in a good word for Red Admiral - huge leaves and a long season of bloom...although that screaming magenta might not be to your taste. Another astonishing find - the south african incana/robustums which, although do best in sun, will also perform in shade - there is a neat hybrid - Silver Cloak...although might be lacking in hardiness for a zone 6. If you have a very sheltered wood, you might take a punt on one of the Canary Island palmatums - great foliage...but needs space. Finally, better, to my mind than the seedy phaeums are the nodosums - glossy fresh foliage and a long season of delicate lilac blooms - Svelte Lilac is the cultivar which comes to mind. Completely forgot about those woodland stars - the sylvaticums. Have several of them - Birch Lilac, Mayflower, etc. Lovely, partnered with early anemones. eta - I have the lovely Rose Madder phaeum - the best of the bunch to my mind. There is a rather good pyrenicum called Snow Flake or something similar - a goodie for sure. I would probably discount the palmatum in a Z5 though.