Wisteria leaves wilting/dying -- any idea why?
Wayne Reibold
15 years ago
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jimshy
15 years agoellbee63
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Winterberry Holly Leaves Wilting/Dying
Comments (6)My newer Winterberry is taking our hot weather pretty hard, it was purchased in June. I planted a Winter Red last fall, so it had a good time getting more rooted in, than my newly purchased Southern Gentleman. I have a couple TINY Sprite bushes that will droop if not watered often in their dry location. They have small root systems, even though they have been there 3 years. I plan to move them in Fall to a moister location where they will be happier. I am watering the Southern Gentleman every other day, after finding it crispy fried one day. I had checked it the previous day, looked fine. Next day the leaves were VERY shriveled, and I figured it was a goner. I pulled it up, moved it to a temporary place where I could check it daily, and watered it deeply each day and it resprouted new leaves. WHEW! I now do watering every other day, and it seems pretty happy with no wilting. The Winter Red (with better established root system) is getting watered once or twice a week, with a couple buckets of water. It seems pretty happy and not wilted. It is in full sun until about 8PM. Neither has any insect issues. So I would try going overboard a bit, watering heavily, daily, to see if the plant perks up. Probably a week of that treatment, should get it back on track so you can water less often. Still may need more frequent watering than normal in the heat, no rain, but it should perk up and not be droopy. My Hydrangeas are also often wilted in this heat and humidity, so they need watering more often than "normal" for this time of year. I will do this to keep them going. Good luck with your Winterberries. I want a Sparkleberry, it is on my Fall shopping list. I think because they are wetland plants, they need more water than normal, with my lack of rain....See MoreLeaves curling and wilting, why?
Comments (7)The problem is either not enough water or too much water. It is normal for rhododendron new growth to wilt in the heat of the day. It should have recovered by the next morning. If not either the plant isn't getting water to the roots or the roots are dying from too much water. The most important thing to check when planting is drainage. You should dig the hole twice as deep as the root ball is high and fill it with water. It should drain in less than an hour. If not you must make it drain. The normal way is to use a raised bed of good acidic soil. The next most important thing to check before planting is the root ball. It the plant is root bound you must open it up so that the roots don't go circularly around the outside. If the root ball is root bound, you can either open it up or make cuts down the outside in at least 4 places to cut the roots that are going around. Next, you must make sure the root ball doesn't dry out. Once they dry out they will shed water when placed in the ground. It is best to soak it for about half an hour before planting if it is dry. Rhododendron guru Harold Greer noted: "Quite often a plant will get completely dry and then no matter how much water you apply, the rootball will just keep shedding it. The top of the soil may seem wet, and the soil around the plant may even be very wet, but the actual rootball of the plant is bone dry. This is especially true for newly planted rhododendrons, and it is the major reason for failure, or at least less than great success with that new plant. It is hard to believe that a plant can be within mere inches of a sprinkler that has been running for hours and still be dry, yet it can be SO TRUE!" If you have root rot, it is normally fatal. There isn't much you can do....See MoreYellowing leaves, any idea why?
Comments (18)Chris (cebury): You're absolutely correct, the many citrus orchards around my area all have mature trees, they're green year round. The interesting thing is, I have 4 citrus trees, only 1 has yellow leaves, it is the most mature (thickest trunk). The other 3 are pretty green. Here's a link to the tree canopy I built for the starfruit tree. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/delldude/1.jpg Notice the top is just plain old Hefty trash bags. I've since changed it to an semi-clear cover on the top, north, and south. The material is use is a weed barrier, sold in a huge roll at Costco for $30. It's whitish, semi transparent, so sunlight can still shine through. I haven't made a canopy for the citrus tree in question yet, but I think I should asap. All my trees are on the south side of the house, so they get the full sun exposure from dawn to dusk. I've built 10 canopies already, and so far they seem to be helping with the wilting, browning, crumbling leaves problem. My avocado plant is the hardest hit, its leaves are so thin and fragile, the edges all browned out and crumbed when I squeezed them. Regarding wind screen, I don't cover all 4 sides, some plants are fragile in the wind (like my jujube, its leaves got blown off before the canopy was built), so I covered the north/south sides of the canopy, and not the entire height of the canopy either, just 48" vertical dimension. On a side note: since my house is newer, the soil is so bad. Very alkaline, I added some soil acidifier (sulfur) last week, along with some organic fertilizer. Maybe doing that in the heat of summer is not such a good idea, hopefully no roots get burned. Thanks,...See MoreHELP! Zucchini plant is dying and no idea why?!
Comments (3)Well, to start with, do you see evidence of squash vine borers? Hole, sawdust-like debris, anything? The powdery mildew would be slow acting and not a collapse like that. A good spot to start is HERE. tj...See MoreWayne Reibold
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