I just realized I forgot to come back and update. Everything that was under the area with the space heater was untouched. The tops of the pole beans died, but I knew that would happen because the tarp was resting on the tops. The beets did fine under the tarp and the greens survived untouched as well. Carrots were fine. Bush beans succumbed even though they were under blankets raised with twigs. I've have to note for next year that the covers are only good for the lightest frosts for the beans. The leeks surprised me; the tops were far more touched by the frost than I thought they would be for a crop that's supposed to have some frost tolerance. It was more than just the areas where the tarp touched, too... the wilting went down a ways. I wonder if I'd given them a heavy watering if they would have fared better. Underground and a couple of inches above ground are still good. Luckily, I grew some very tall, sturdy transplants this spring that I was able to bury really well. Many of my leeks have a full 12 inches of useable (white and light green) stalk. :) (Tommyr, I was speaking of what can stay out with cover. Tarps don't provide an indefinite amount of protection.)

I read this thread with interest, as fall/winter gardening is one of the great joys of my life, and it is about that time of the year when we get started on the winter garden. I live on the South Texas coast, and we garden year round. I noticed that there was a discussion of growing from seed vs. transplanting plants. Many people shy away from growing from seeds because the outcome is less certain than plopping in a transplant. However, I have found that the greatest satisfaction FOR ME, comes from plants that I have grown from seeds. More seeds die from being planted too deeply than from any other cause. A seed is an encapsulated embryo, with everything it needs to survive stored in the covering of that seed. When you plant a seed, and it germinates, it has X amount of food to live on until it breaks ground and opens the first little leaves, and is able to manufacture food for itself. If you plant it too deep, it will use all it's food supply before it can make more on it's own, and it will die. As a rule, plant seeds 2 to 2 1/2 times the thinnest dimension of the seed. So, if your seed is 1/4" thick, plant it about 1/2" deep. If your seeds are fine little seeds, sprinkle them on the ground and just press them into the soil. I usually will cover my seeds with vermiculite, as it offers many advantages. One is that I know where I have already planted seeds. It will protect little seeds from our hot sun, and preserve precious moisture. And if your seeds need light to germinate, it will allow light to get to your seed, as well as allowing air and water to percolate through easily. I am lucky to have a source for vermiculite in great big bags for not much money. I use a 1"x 4" board to cover my seed rows sometimes, as it will keep the soil moist, and prevent a crust from forming. This is particularly good when growing crops like carrots, which has a hard time breaking through the crust on the ground. Just check every day or so to be sure you know to take the board away! Spacing can be conquered by using a piece of peg board. Just determine the spacing you need, and count out the holes on the pegboard laid out on the ground. This is great for blocks of corn! Tiny little seeds, like onions, can be sprinkled from a salt shaker, with a bit of sand mixed with the seeds. This way, you won't get your seeds all clumped together, rather, they should be better spaced apart. Press them onto the soil with a piece of plywood, covered with waxed paper or freezer paper, waxed side out. The wet paper towel method of germinating seeds is wonderful, especially if your seeds are older, and you are not sure of their viability. When they germinate, you can just plop them into the ground or in 6-packs, and you know every seed you planted is good. You can still grow from seed and have the dependability of transplants. Just start your seeds in 6-packs, to insure you get the varieties you want and the numbers of plants you need when it comes time to plant in the garden. I love to try varieties that are new to me, so this is a real GOOD THING for me. Also, by doing this, you will have plants to trade with friends, plants to sell (maybe?). And you won't have to thin and throw away good little seedlings just because you don't need that many plants. Also, I never met the person who needed 6 eggplant plants for a family of 4! My Dad planted a pack of seeds once, and I think every seed grew and excelled in producing! He was just covered up in eggplants! And you KNOW you can't just throw them away! So, starting from seeds, plant 3 or 4 seeds, give 2 away, or trade for 2 nice pepper or tomato plants, or 6 cabbages, and everyone will be happy. And start the seeds in the 6-packs the same way.....Not too deep, cover with vermiculite, water with a soft spray. I use a turkey baster, or a dish detergent bottle to water seedlings in 6-packs or pots. Fertilize with half strength water soluable fertilizer when they have true leaves. Mostly, HAVE FUN! Janie

This will be my first year gardening, and I am really excited. I have grown to really love canning, but haven't yet grown anything of my own to can. I started a bunch of seeds inside in late January, even things you aren't supposed to start indoors, like beets (oops). When does everyone really get started sowing seeds outside? I have done a few rows of beets, carrots and radishes this past week, but perhaps I am premature due to excitement. Also, I planted way too many tomatoes and cucumbers and now I have a bunch of starts that I can't bear to throw away. Is there a garden exchange or anything where I can give them away? Thanks for your help.

nancyjwb, here in Michigan we have short, hot, humid summers. It topped 90 several days last year, but I grow leeks every year. I put the starts in the garden the end of May and as I weed them, I pull the dirt up around the plants. They are very cold tolerant, so they are one of the last things I take out of the garden. I usually plant a 50 foot row and then slice and dehydrate them, plus can potato leek soup. They never bolt or go to seed and they are always at least an inch in diameter. They don't need any more or less care than anything else in the garden, so they get weeded and watered right along with everything else. My garden has grown to over an acre, so I don't "baby" anything very much, except heirloom tomatoes. Radishes are grown to mark the rows of slow growing plants like carrots, so I can see where the row is until the tiny plants get bigger. By the time the radishes are big enough to use, the row is well established. Annie