Some multiplier onions are very high yielding. Walking onions (A. cepa, same species as bulbing onions) & bunching onions (A. fistulosum) are probably your best bets. Both are perennials, so as long as you care for them, you'll (almost) never need to buy scallions. Only during their dormant phase in mid-Summer. You have probably already seen walking onions; "Egyptian" and "Catawissa" are the most popular. They form bulb clusters on the end of their "seed stalk". They can be harvested twice a year, in early Spring, and again in late Summer/Fall. The plants multiply both from dividing at the base, and from planting the bulb clusters. They are exceptionally winter hardy. These are my favorite scallions, very tasty. Bunching onions can be harvested at roughly the same times. They get flowers on their stalks the second year after planting, and are less winter hardy than the walking onions... but probably more than hardy enough for your zone. The degree to which they multiply varies; those with the larger stalks tend to divide less, perhaps into 3-4 vs. 10 or more for the smaller ones. Did I say larger stalks??? Some varieties, well grown, can have stalks over 1" wide. I described several varieties in the "Unusual Vegetables" thread (on the Veggie Forum). You could also grow shallots or potato onions, which would then double as bulbs when mature... but IMO, eating them as scallions would be a waste. They also would not multiply as rapidly as the walking onions, or the smaller bunching onions. However, you might consider growing garlic chives. Even garlic bulbs, if left unharvested, will form large clusters of greens which can be harvested as scallions... you might even find that you have a taste for them.

expert I am not. experienced I am. The winter sun in the north where both of you are located gets shorter and shorter. If you intend on a production of vegetables in the house, you'll have to use florescent or other lighting to be able to grow sun loving plants enough to produce good. Cucumbers are difficult inside. Smaller sized tomatoes are more successful. Leaf Lettuces, cilantros, parsely, mizuna, arugula (rocket), corn salad, bok chois and other asian veges, can sit on a southern exposed window sill. Anything other than a south facing window and you'll need lights. Jason, as far as how high in the pot do you put soil, the more the better is usually good advice. In containers for the winter, you'll likely have to feed them weekly doses of small amounts of fertilizers. They can't get it from the potting mix unless you're using the type that has ferts in them. How do you space them? That depends on the shape of the pot but you'll want them just as you'll likely image it, as far from one as the other evenly spaced but not on the edges. I like Pam's idea of cold frames over her perfect choice of planting for a fall harvest I'd add beets to that too cuz even if they don't bulb and they might with mulch, the leaves are excellent for color and taste in salads. ~tom

Congratulations on your herb garden. I've been growing several varieties of basil in a bay window in my kitchen for a little over a year now. It actually does well for me in terra cotta pots though they need daily watering in the summer heat. I now have some chives growing there as well but most of the window is taken over by plastic pots with various seedlings since things sprout good for me there. The basil has been manageable for me there cause I use a lot of it so am always pinching to keep the plant short and the variety of basils in terra cotta pots make the window look very nice. I found that plastic pots stay wet too long there and some plants don't like that. I do tend to overwater though and have to watch myself. Herbs are really fun to grow and your cooking will taste so much better than using dried herbs from the store. I'm still pretty new at this myself but growing herbs has been very rewarding for me. Ania

I understand not everyone has $150 to spend on a plant grow light and that other solutions exist on the market, but this product suits my needs and I feel it was the best, long term investment I could make to accomplish my goals. Ultimately, the quality of my plants speak for themselves and I am very happy with the investment I made. And come on... "Your usage of the word 'need' is that of a schizophrenic". I used the word three times, and that is a very immature way to respond. We're adults here, thankfully neither of us schizophrenic. I am trying to share knowledge with you and others reading this, but you shoot down what I say without providing evidence to your claims. I am just reporting to you what other companies and various studies done by universities and NASA are saying. The LED grow light market is currently worth $395 million (2014) and is forecast to reach $1.8 billion by 2021. If what you are saying is correct, that number would be significantly smaller. https://globenewswire.com/news-release/2015/10/29/781299/10154495/en/LED-Grow-Light-Module-Market-at-395-Million-in-2014-Are-Forecast-To-Reach-1-8-Billion-by-2021-MarketResearchReports-Biz.html As for "need", yes, you need a ratio that has significantly more red (660) than blue (450). Here are an abundant amount of studies that talk about the need for that ratio and the usefulness of 24% or less of green (where more than 24% green causes a negative effect). - The National Aeronautics and Space Administration’s (NASA) Biological Sciences research group has concluded that light sources consisting of more than 50% green cause reductions in plant growth, whereas combinations including up to 24% green enhance growth for some species. These used red/blue led lights with added green. - http://www.actahort.org/books/711/711_11.htm ---- A 2nd study that supports NASA's results. They tested lights that had 0%, 24%, 86%, and 51% green light. 24% did the best. http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/39/7/1617 ---- A 3rd study that shows the addition of a small amount of far red AND the addition of green was useful. http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/43/7/1951 -A paper that talks about the importance of 450nm light and 660nm light. it shows that 660nm contributes to the plant photosynthesis. http://www.actahort.org/books/440/440_20.htm -A study that talks about the ratio of red/blue being 4/1 along with the addition of green and the effects. http://pcp.oxfordjournals.org/content/45/12/1870.short -Research done by one of the top grow light companies, showing the need for 660nm light. These lights sell for much more than the Asepct. "The 624nm region has the highest photosynthetic relative quantum yield for a range of plants. At the same time, its action on red-absorbing phytochrome is considerably weaker compared to that of 660 nm red light and can be used to balance the phytochrome equilibrium towards lower values (closer to those of daylight) than those achievable with 660 nm red light, especially when used together with 730 nm red light." https://www.illumitex.com/impacts-colored-light-plants/ ---- You can see the spectrum of light this company uses, clearly they support the idea of the 1-4 ratio of light needed for optimal plant growth. https://www.illumitex.com/full-spectrum-light-plant-growth/ For the far red, no, a regular incandescent bulb has too much far red and IR ways, it will kill the plants. Once you start going above 750nm you lose the Pfr to Pr conversion and start in to phytochrome mutation not manipulation in plant growth. You need only a little for the Emerson effect to work. Here are an abundance of studies to get you started on. http://microbiologyprocesses.blogspot.com/2011/12/photosystem-i-ii-red-drop-effect.html http://jgp.rupress.org/content/16/2/191.full.pdf http://www.life.illinois.edu/govindjee/Electronic%20Publications/1963/1963_Gov.pdf http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/39/1/10.full.pdf Finally, the cheap Chinese LED you found. Yes, the LED is $5 but the quality could be anything. My experience is buying Chinese tech products has resulted in a total waste of my time and money. Even if the LED works, you will need to add a heatsink, power supply, optics, ect. Then you need to make a body for the light, buy 15 feet of wire, buy a power cord, and learn basic electronics to build the entire light. Good luck finding quality parts to power that light for under $100, then the question is, what is your time worth? Do you claim to know what parts you need already, how to rate a heatsink, and have the time to research and buy all of this? Anyway, I want to reiterate....I understand that not everyone has $150, but I do, and I invested it in an LED grow light that would not only grow my plants indoors but look great doing it. My plants and home speak for themselves...a worthy investment. Have a nice day. -Paul