Have seen it with cones often in my area, on specimens of various sizes. Jacobson, Trees of Seattle - Second Edition (2006) designates the tree as "common" there, lists 8 sites having examples ranging in height from 28' to 58 1/2', including a church parking lot where the umbrella pine there is "Seattle's first Heritage tree, dedicated in October 1996". Elsewhere in western WA large examples can be seen in Evergreen Park Cemetery, Everett (several trees in the older, north part) and Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens, Woodland (one north of the house, among other trees but easily found). Both sites are near I-5, the cemetery is in fact almost immediately west of the freeway and the Lilac Garden has signs to it starting on the freeway itself. Coming from the north the big copper beech near the north end of the cemetery is quite prominent. For additional details about these and numerous other conifers of at least regionally significant size see Van Pelt, Champion Trees of Washington State (University of Washington, Seattle, 1996).

We have no shortage of either crows or blue jays here in the Laurel Highlands of PA. I put bread, pasta or other goody out in the morning and within minutes there are crows in the yard, they must post a sentry to watch for me. The jays love peanuts, we put them in the platform feeder each day and they are gone quickly. I love having the crows around, they act as the guardians of the feeder, chasing squirrels and making sure that the hawks are held at bay. I enjoy watching and listening to them interact, their society seems to be highly structured with many different calls and duties assigned. I love the crows, they are welcome in our yard. We have ponds and water gardens, I also have several lotus pots with standing water in them. I too am concerned about mosquitos and have used dunks for the almost 10 years that we have had the ponds. They won't harm birds or critters sneaking a drink but they will put an end to the larvae.

"It's the GE washing machine in our apartment - probably a cheapie - but not a public laundry room." OK, good. But citing the model number off the machine's tag would be even better for confirming what you have .. frontloader, HE toploader or standard. Does anyone in the household use acne medication? Benzoyl peroxide is a bleaching agent and will cause spotting on fabric. Some toothpastes could possibly do that. Or household cleaning agents. I've gotten what appear to be bleach spots on several pairs of casual shorts, khaki color and black. Not all pairs I have (all washed together) are affected, and all the spotting didn't occur at the same time. I suspect it was caused by splatters from toilet cleaner.

@Al, I'll respond because I feel it necessary to clarify a few things, and because it does feel as though you have attacked me and tried to discredit me. If you did not mean to attack, I am sorry that I read it that way, but that is how it came across. My frustration is with going after a person for not expounding upon details when they have already stated that out of respect for an OP who has already said several times that they are getting confused by all of the technical information and want a simple answer, they were trying to avoid being too technical. I said already that if you would like to have a technical discussion, let's have a conversation about this, because I believe the confusion is in the two methodologies that can be followed in gardening. One is the organic or natural fertilizer method, the other is, for lack of better terms, the use of synthetic fertilizers. When you use synthetic fertilizers you need to be aware of the chemistry of your soil, you need to understand what's going on in the pot, and understand the specific NPK needs of your specific plant. You will also need to make sure that you know enough about fertilizing your plant to do so properly and at the right times, (I'm still trying to keep stuff simple on this, particular, thread) On the other hand if you are using "organic" fertilizers you need to be aware that these fertilizers need to be broken down by microorganisms to be available to the plant. These microorganisms need to be present in the soil and in the fertilizer (many are pre-innoculated) to be broken down over time and become available to the plant. If your soil is devoid of these organisms or otherwise imbalanced you will have nothing to break down your fertilizer and you are essentially just giving yourself problems. Hence my comment about treating the soil as an organism, you need to be aware that there are microorganisms in your soil that you need to maintain if you want your fertilizers to work (think fermentation, I won't get a good ferment if I have the wrong organism or balance of salts). Essentially, you need to understand the biological processes at work. The soil, in this case, is just as much an organism as the plant. I am writing this from a phone, and the interface is terrible so I can't expound as much as I would like but you get the gist. In both cases you need to start with the soil, make sure you have good soil and good growing practices and your plant will do fine. Ideally you can make your own soil, but if you can't there are a number of well draining bagged mixes on the shelf that work great. I personally like the G&B citrus soil as it is a very well draining mix with a good particle size, and I have found that bags that have shorter ingredient lists and have the ingredients I listed on the label (I could have listed all of the ingredients you want to look for but I didn't have time to list everything and still don't, so I listed the ones that are typically used interchangeably on the different mixes) are usually more well draining mixes, in addition others have already listed the ingredients in good soil elsewhere on this thread, and the ingredients on a good bag will be much the same. These well draining mediums help to avoid water collecting at the bottom of a pot which can lead to salt buildup, rotten roots, and all that fun stuff. Now some decorative plastic pots have a raised center and a donut shaped well around the base, a single hole is drilled in the center and water drains from that while collecting in the "donut" in the base (I apologize but it's the best way I can describe it) if you have one of these pots you will, essentially, have a collection point for water below the drainage hole which will not drain. If that's the case you need to drill some drainage into the plastic ring so that there is drainage where water is more likely to collect. I personally use terra cotta with a single hole in the base, and I've never had a problem, but I use a good and well drained mix. Unfortunately I've helped a lot of people who plant a tree in a heavy and water retentive mix, see problems, start adding a fertilizer per the instructions, see more problems, add more fertilizer, read that they need to use a different fertilizer, so they switch, but it has a higher NPK than the previous fertilizer and so they have more problems. THEN they decide that the inorganic fertilizers are too strong and maybe missing something so they douse their plant in fish emulsion or start applying chicken fertilizer to save the plant and don't understand that now they have a pot full of salt and totally dead soil and are now giving themselves more trouble. In THAT case this person needs to go find themselves a good bagged mix with simple instructions find a matched fertilizer that goes with the bagged mix, repot their plant and remove all the old soil, replacing with the new, and follow the instructions for some time. Stop looking at the plant, just get comfortable with watering properly and providing the right environment and let the plant recover. Once the plant is doing well and they've gotten comfortable with care, then, once they're comfortable and not jumping at every dropped leaf, start changing things to see if you can do better. The more factors that they control, the more possibility there is that they can make mistakes and have no idea what went wrong. In that case they need to use something that is known to work, take that off the table as a factor, and then learn the basics. All I was attempting to do was provide a simple path forward and a warning about trying to do too much when general plant care needed to be learned before diving into doing too much at once.