Hi everyone! I've followed this thread with growing interest, and finally took the next step by posting hete :) . I am a professional gardener, and my interests lie heavily on pomology and dendrology (yup, a tree hugger!). I have a vision to introduce cultivars of mulberries, american persimmons, paw paws, nuts, and cornelian cherries to my country of Finland. Now to many it would seem that being as far north as alaska might impose some challenges, but thanks to gulf stream, our southern end is beginning to be the equivalent of USDA 5b/6 ..but of course that's regarding only the low temperatures. At Köppen-Geiger climate we at the south are at Dfb , for those who use that. I'd like to talk about all potential plants, but let's focuse on paw paws...now we have of course insane amounts of light at the peak of the summer, will that help or hinder paw paws, I'm not sure. Last two summers have been wet and cold, and I suspect that no paw paws would have ripened. But then again, I remember summers with +30 Celsius (86 F) , and some winters that went as low as -30C (-22F) . Most of the time however we stay near the -20 C (-4F) at winter, so the low temperatures really are not an issue. However the growing degree days might be...and so I am especially interested in trying the absolutely most earliest cultivars! I really don't care about the size right now, I just want to PROVE to me and to others here that you can actually grow paw paw in the open and outside :D The excel sheet that someone posted is most excellent tool and I thank for that. Now to questions: -Do you have any special recommedations to try? -Should I also focus on growing seedlings ( I have four one year old seeldings, and 50 seeds in the fridge, all from Oikos) to find special case that grows well here? -Do you think that root stock will make a real difference? -When do you think is the best time to graft paw paw, and how thick the trunk should be before I try that? I thank everyone for any help bringing paw paws (and others) to my country :) -Janne

fireweed22: Many, who grow figs in containers/pots will get figs off their plants. Obviously something is going wrong with your culture. Your varieties all have the potential to give you ripened figs in your climate zone. You don't mention: Pot sizes Growing medium Pinching techniques to ripen figs earlier Breba figs? If your pots are too small, the roots may be restricted. Your plants should be in a minimum of no less than 5-gallons of growing medium....a quick-draining medium, like a 5:1:1. This forum is loaded with postings that have various growing mix recommendations. Figs need at least 70-120 days of good sun and heat to ripen main-crop figs. In your climate zone, pinch off all breba figs, and allow only main crop figs to develop. If growth is very vigorous, pinch back all new green stems and leave 5-8 leaves on each branchlet that has main-crop figs growing. This will divert energy into ripening those figs sooner in the season. You don't mention if you allow your trees to first go dormant before bring them into your sun-room, so now I'm just guessing. If you have a warm Sun-room, if you can, bring those potted figs out of dormancy in March, and let them grow, in full sun, until temps outside can support the new growth without doing damage to soft tissue. You can even bring them outside on warm days, and bring them back into a warm room at night. Many growers do this "fig shuffle" in short-season areas. This "stretches" the growing season, and gives you more time to ripen figs. If possible, try sinking your figs halfway into the garden soil, and heavily mulch up the sides of the pot. Plant them in full sun, and let the roots run free into the surrounding soil....but beware!...roots growing from drainage holes under the pot will be difficult to cut when you have to lift the pots for Winter storage. If drainage holes are at the bottom-SIDES of a container, run a spade down the sides, in August, to sever the roots for easier lifting in late-September. Don't over-fertilize with high-nitrogen formulas, and stop fertilizing by mid-July at the latest. Also top dress the growing medium with a good handful of granulated limestone to counteract the acidic conditions that chemical fertilizers can cause in potting mediums. Figs hate soggy conditions, so try not to over-water. If you use a quick-draining mix it will be virtually impossible to over water. You also need to do something to stop the Spider-Mite infestations. Plants weakened by insects, etc. will be slow to push fruit. Once growing conditions are corrected, and good culture takes over, you will get to eat properly ripened figs, even in Zone-6. I have been growing in containers since 2007, and get figs each year. Most of my fig trees are planted into 18-gallon storage tubs that I purchase at Home Depot. I convert them by drilling 3/4" holes along the bottom-sides....never into the bottom surface. They are filled with modified, 5:1:1 mix and I use a granular limestone as a top dressing 2X per season. I use "Espoma, Iron-Tone" (organic fertilizer) and supplement with a dilute - (1 tbs/5-gallons of water) - "Miracle-Gro 24-8-16" tonic, 2X per month, until mid-July. The Espoma, Iron-Tone will continue to release small amounts of residual food until trees go dormant, sometime in mid-October. I also pinch back all branches growing figs, but keep 6-8 leaves. I keep doing this pinching if necessary. Roots like to be kept cool...a difficult thing to do when trees are grown in containers....that's why I suggested sinking your containers and mulching if possible. Don't give up on trying to grow figs. Some years are good, some are great, and some are terrible, like this year. Hope this will help you. Good luck. Frank

That's interesting. I didn't realize figs would continue root growth while dormant. I know other plants do (why fall planting is such a good idea), but I kind of thought of figs as a hot weather kind of plant that shuts down. Never considered it. That changes things. My big concern with overwintering just potted bareroot trees has more to do with moisture in the pots than cold temps. Heavily rooted plants seem to regulate water better - even while dormant. The channels through the soil that the roots make maybe? What I have here is kind of an "overpotting" situation. I have enough roots for the size pot, but they are all in one spot, basically, surrounded by a mass of water retentive soiless mix. Not a healthy situation - making me nervous - the pots are sodden. I've actually started wicking some of the moisture out with clay pots and paper towels. I've overwintered very successfully in the garage - even when temps dropped to 10*F in there. The only time I had a number of plants die was early on, when they seemed dry in late winter/early spring, and I gave them a drink. A number died. I know it was the water because I also "helped out" some hosta I had in the garage with a drink and lost them also, and they are dead hardy. Never did that again. The problem is finding a place cool enough to keep them below 40* F. Anyone have any experience overwintering at higher temps (40* +)? If I go this route, I'd probably want to take you up on the Wilt Pruf. Thanks for the offer. Another benefit of a deep horse manure mulch might also be in preserving roots. Many roots are right at soil level (probably why it got the reputation for being shallow rooted) and low temps and fluctuations (freeze-thaw) might do damage. So not only would you have new root growth, but probably also root preservation. This manure mulch sounds better and better. I think there is a little misunderstanding about horse manure. When I say it's hot I mean that it heats up when composted, not that it "burns" roots. Old time market gardeners in Canada used to use it to produce melons. They dug a pit, covered it with a cold frame and put in very fresh horse manure and a layer of soil. Planted melons in the soil very early and got a big start on the season using the heat from the manure. I'm not sure where it ranks in "burn" potential - I'll believe Christy's assertion that it's less "burny" than cow - sounds like she's talking from experience (How great to have your own manure sources). It would be helpful to know just how old the manure your friend gets actually is. Probably through the hottest part of the process? I have a friend with large manure making machines (Clydesdales)and could get some, but would want to make sure I'm reproducing the conditions your friend has.

The fruit of a fig (a synconium) is actually a receptacle for it's flowers, which grow inside the receptacle. Figs are pollinated almost always wasps, that crawl into the synconium through a hole (ostiole) in the distal end/bottom of each synconium. The female wasp(s) carry pollen into the fig, pollinate the flowers, and die inside. Male wasps emerge and mature first. When female wasps emerge they meet the males and mate. The males then dig escape tunnels for the females before dying inside the fig. The females then go in search of another synconium, which completes the circle. So, whether or not your little synconium gets pollinated depends on a highly specific wasp having access to them. Better to attempt propagation by way of cuttings. Pecking Order of Plant Parts Trees and herbaceous plants prioritize their parts, but perhaps it's better to say that the strength of energy sinks has a distinct order: Energy is first allocated to respiratory function, i.e. to maintenance of living tissues, then, to production of fine roots, followed by flower and seed/fruit production, then primary growth (extension of both roots and shoots), then secondary growth (thickening), and finally, the synthesis of defensive chemicals. From this, you can conclude that additional energy will be available for primary and secondary growth as well as the plant's defenses. As a bonsai practitioner, I always remove blooms from developing plants as soon as they appear. If I miss removing some of the blooms, I remove the developing fruit to free up extra energy in order to increase the plant's mass. On more developed plants where bloom and/or fruit appreciation is one of the plants most desirable properties, I generally limit blooming/fruiting to every other or every third year in order to keep the vitality level of the plants as high as possible. While I realize you are not tending a bonsai, this is a useful bit of information applies to any potted tree you would grow indoors or outdoors. Al