Pruning technique and timing for deciduous conifers

11 years ago

Curious if there is a certain type of technique and timing retlated to pruning decidious confiers for a tight appearance.

For cultivars like Ginkgo 'Mariken', Taxodium distichum 'Peve Minaret', Metasequoia glyptostroboides 'Schirrmann's Nordlicht' and Larix laricina 'Blue Sparkler'.

I'm assuming for the Taxodium, Metasequoia and Larix you just prune to the desired shape and don't have to be worried about bud placement?

As for Ginkgo, prune back to the desired shape to a mix of inward and outward facing buds?

Then for timing the typical early spring before bud break?

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Comments (10)

wisconsitom
11 years ago
I'm not familiar with those cultivars but what you propose sounds right to me.

As the person who probably has most often proclaimed late winter/early spring to be the best of the best times for pruning the vast majority of woody plants, I'd like to offer that most any time of year is generally going to work out just fine. So, if you really prefer to do this work in mid-summer or whenever, just do it. Bud break time and that period during which the plant(s) are preparing for leaf senescence are the two to avoid.

+oM
whaas_5a
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for the feedback.

I'm on board with your timing suggestion dependent on species. I just wasn't sure how theses particlar species develop buds and if timing would impact ability to develop more compact, dense branching given the goal.

Similar to candlestick pruning on Pines in June before the needles unbundle, cutting back new growth on spruces or fir in early June or shearing Yew, Arb and Juniper is pretty well documented but not so much with these decidious conifers.
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you might get better answer in the conifer forum on the GG ... but those peeps visit here... so it doesnt matter this time... but do keep in mind.. part of your inability to find info.. is the fact that you are calling conifers trees.. and though they are.. one might suggest.. that this is where they differ widely ... pruning.... the base line here.. is why .. having a plant.. that is supposed to be one of the most vigorous growing arbs.. to the point where they call it a giant... that you want to make it less giant... the simply solution would be to cut it to the ground.. and plant one of the other thousand thuja.. that have a much more favorable growth rate.... i just dont see how you crown reduce.. or top.. a plant that claims to grow 3 to 5 feet per year ... giving it a hair cut isnt going to slow it down.. with no insult to the root mass.. it will probably speed it up .... no comment on the fringe tree... regardless.. i do not favor 'topping' trees.. and i dont buy the notion that calling it canopy reduction makes it any different.. if something doenst fit in my garden.. it dies.. and is replaced with something with a better annual growth rate.. to insure that it takes much longer to go past it claimed mature height... no tree really stops growing at some magical height... if you want some real opinions about your plants .. favor us with some pix.. so we can see the situation.. and give you some spot on advice ... rather than theory ... good luck ken
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dcsteg
11 years ago
"For cultivars like Ginkgo 'Mariken', Taxodium distichum 'Peve Minaret', Metasequoia glyptostroboides 'Schirrmann's Nordlicht' and Larix laricina 'Blue Sparkler".

I prune, shear all these about this time of year to the desired shape I want them for next year. I do not pay any attention to bud set. They all fill in very nicely in the Spring and stay within their allotted space through the growing season. I have been doing it this way for years.

Dave
whaas_5a
Original Author
11 years ago
Simple as that...looks like I'm headed down the right path.

Thanks!
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 years ago
yes.. use the nuditity of the deciduous plants.. to your advantage ... at least until you are so experienced.. it doesnt matter ... [new word of the day.. lol]

i am surprised .. as new as your plantings are.. that you are already contemplating pruning ... both here and in the tree forum ...

just keep in mind.. severe topping can have a major impact on recent transplants ... they need those leaves/needles to grow the roots toward full establishment. .. which i am sure you already know ...

a little nip and tuck.. guidance, one might say.. surely wont matter ...

ken
dcsteg
11 years ago
"i am surprised .. as new as your plantings are.. that you are already contemplating pruning ... both here and in the tree forum".

Ken some of my cultivars are 15 years old.

When pruning everything matters. I do it to achieve the look I want. Nothing has died.

Thanks for your guidance and concerns. Always appreciated.

Come and see my garden and you will understand why I do the things I do.

Dave
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 years ago
dave ... mr smarty pants.. its WILL's post..

i was addressing his NEW garden ...

not your masterpiece .. and your vast knowledge of how to keep things in bounds in your smaller garden ....

so... do you go after plants immediately after planting ???? .. i find it hard to believe.. that your large specimens .. newly shipped across county.. are so vigorous .. that that first fall/winter .. after spring planting ..... you go at them with the machete ????

ken
dcsteg
11 years ago
Ken,

Sorry for the mistake. You could have just left it as that.

Since you didn't....You have become the Mr.New Smarty Pants

Dave

This post was edited by dcsteg on Tue, Nov 27, 12 at 17:03
whaas_5a
Original Author
11 years ago
Yes, just a little nip tuck to begin with. Bud placement was really my concern/question.

Dave, I'm digging the new edit feature!lol!
dcsteg
11 years ago
Whass...I had reservations but meant what I said.

Thought for the day: Be who you are and say what you feel ... because those that matter... don't mind ... and those that mind ...don't matter!

Dave

Pruning technique and timing for deciduous conifers

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wisconsitom

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Pruning technique and timing for deciduous conifers

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wisconsitom

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dcsteg

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