I have done the same thing in SE Texas for the same reason. I am north of Beaumont with an average in the 500 to 600. My La Feliciana is just starting to bloom. I have a White Delight 2 peach, new from Texas A&M that has been blooming for a week or two and is in full bloom. It is rated at 550. Loring is suppose to be one of the best tasting peach and has a 750 chill hour rating. I would not go above 750-800 hours. June Prince is another variety that is 650 that should work. You might even want to go with a low variety like Florida Crest at 350-400. It is adapted and mine already has marble sized peaches. Yes, it bloomed very early but with the cold weather coming on Monday it will withstand the cold better than the varieties that are blooming. Gulf Crimson is another that has grown well and has a chill of 400 hrs. All my lower chill peach trees are in their second growing season but they should have as good of flavor as La Feliciana. Florida King has been rated as fair to poor quality. I have stayed away from it for that reason. Arctic Star nectarine has been blooming for about a week if you want to try nectarine. I planted one last year and it grew very well. You will also want to look at harvest dates to make sure they don't all come off at the same time. I have also planted a tropic snow and tropic beauty peach tree in 15 gallon pots that i can move if it gets cold. I hope they will last for about 5 years before they become root bound. They have a chill hour of 150 to 200 hours.

Dug up my saffron bulbs. I started with 20 good sized bulbs, and after 20 months have forty to sixty smaller sized bulbs. The saffron never flowered either fall it was in the garden. Is this the type of bulb behavior you all would expect if the bulb is not getting enough chilling hours? Hope you all are doing well.

I don't grow fruit trees, but still pretty interesting to see how much of a difference north/south FL is! And then this location, every where else followed a pattern, but them!

HU, root pruning is a must when growing in a container as eventually the roots will start to circle and slow strangulation occurs eventually killing the plant. You can wait until after the ripening crop and watch the leaves for any change as in color or some dropping then wait until soil is fairly dry yet compact enough not to fall apart, tip container to side grab trunk and pull out. When root pruning you must top the canopy as well otherwise you risk plant dropping figs because to much canopy the pruned root system cannot support and plant will compensate by dropping figs thats mother nature helping its survival. Martin