Thanks all!! I will be trying my best to save some seeds this year and winter sowers will be first. We have had some horrible storms so I do not know if that will prevent pollination or what, I guess I will have to wait and see. Something told me the other day to pull out the paint brush, but NO I didn't listen. Grr!! Terrene I so hope yours blooms this year, the fragrance is great!! Almost like someone sprayed some cologne, LOL!! Bev if I am not mistaken I think it might of been you that I sent a clump to. I know I sent someone a clump of this phlox, my plumbago and my shasta daisy silver princess with the canna tubers. Was that you?? LOL I tell you what life is so hectic around here that 6 months ago to me seems like 5 years ago!! lol

This note from Darwin might help. Gardeners' Chronicle 11 Aug 1866: 756 Pollinating Papilionaceous Flowers Charles Darwin All who have tried have found much difficulty in crossing papilionaceous flowers. Several years ago, Dr. Herbert remarked to me that with the exception of Erythrina no hybrids had been made in this great family. Gaertner crossed 36 flowers of different varieties of the common Pea, and he did not get a single pod perfectly developed and with the full complement of seed; he crossed 10 flowers of Kidney Beans, and did not get a single pod. Some years ago I crossed the varieties of the Sweet Pea, and many more flowers dropped off unimpregnated than were fertilised. The difficulty arises from the anthers opening at so early an age that they must be removed long before the flower expands. After the operation the immature stigma is liable to exposure to the air; and it is difficult to judge when to apply the pollen. Moreover there is some reason to suspect that the stigma requires successive applications of pollen. To show the difficulty of fertilising papilionaceous flowers, I may mention that I lately removed all the pollen that I could with a soft brush from six recently expanded flowers of Lupinus pilosus protected from the visits of insects, and then applied pollen from a distinct individual of the same species. Although in this case there was no operation at an early age, yet five flowers out of the six dropped off unimpregnated. Had the flowers remained untouched, all, judging from the others, probably would have set, and the only difference would have been that their stigmas would have been surrounded by a mass of pollen as long as the flowers continued in bloom. This case is worth mentioning as showing how erroneous the belief is that fertilisation usually takes place in unopened flowers, in which the pollen is shed at an early age. These trials on the Lupines, and others formerly on Sweet Peas, led me to try the following plan. I rolled up thin paper into a cylinder, rather thinner than a knitting needle. I then tied a thread tight round, and cut off the cylinder beneath the thread, so that a little pipe closed at one end or cap, about the fifth of an inch, was left. This was easily filled with pollen from the keel-petal of any desired variety, and could then be placed on the pistil and secured below the stigma by being tied with a thread. I then castrated four flower-buds of the Sweet Pea, and placed on the young stigma caps filled with pollen from another variety, and four fine pods were soon formed. I also fertilised eight castrated flowers of two species of Lupins with pollen from distinct plants of the same species, but from these I have got only four pods. I may add, that as an experiment I filled one of the little caps with pollen of Lathyrus grandiflorus and placed it on the stigma of a Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus), and to my great surprise, considering how distinct these species are, a fine pod has been formed. I am certain no pollen could have been left in the flower of the Sweet Pea, as the anthers were removed whilst quite immature; and if these hybrid seeds grow, a curious hybrid will be produced. I should not have thought this plan of fertilising papilionaceous flowers worth mentioning had it not been applicable in all cases in which early castration is necessary, and likewise in certain cases mentioned by Gaertner, in which the stigma requires, or is benefited by, successive applications of pollen. In all such cases some trouble would be saved and certainty gained by the use of the little caps filled with the desired kind of pollen. Karl Here is a link that might be useful: Pollinating Papilionaceous Flowers

They are indeed seedpods. Lilies don't rebloom in the same season and need a cold period or vernalization to bloom again. I'm guess that in Brazil you will need to store the lily in the refrigerator for few weeks after the foliage has "ripened".

Dave, I am not sure what your question is here. The calyx is the green covering of the bloom bud. When the flower opens the calyx is on the back side of the flower. Pollen should be applied to the tip of the pistel. The pistel is the fan shaped tip of the carpel. When talking about peonies people seem to refer to placing pollen on the carpels rather than on the pistels. The pistel doesn't seem to come up to a point like they do in many other flowers but rather they are flattened and the receptive part of the pistel will be the edge of the fan shaped structure. The carpels are located in the center of the stamen boss. It is best to open the flower of the pod parent to remove the stamen as soon as the flower bud is loose enough to get inside of it. Then generally the next day as soon as the flower opens you can begin to pollenate. I generally only pollenate flowers once and sometimes twice however it would be better to pollenate each flower for 3 consecutive days. After about the third day the carpel will not be receptive (it will no longer be sticky). Peonies have developed toward a self infertile nature but not entirely. The carpels are receptive very soon after the flower opens and some cultivars perhaps become receptive concurrent with opening. However the stamen seems to have to further mature before pollen will become active which happens a few days later. I think with most cultivars that have fertile carpels and fertile pollen there is an overlap of fertility between carpels and pollen which allows for some self pollenation. If cross pollenating herbaceous peonies I especially like to cross pollenate using a pod parent that is a Japanese type bloom. These flowers do not have pollen and there is no chance of self pollenation. Dave, I hope this helps, Leon.