Squash borers will come. I always take part of the vine further down the plant and root it. Giving it more rooting points along the vine seems to keep production away from die back. I sometimes just cut the infected part away once I know the plant has additional roots. Literally, just mound up a little dirt over any part of the vine and it will take care of itself. It wants to live, too. I've got borers--but more squash than we can eat, so I just get over the appearance of the vines. (We also perpetually have white mildew from our humidity). Last year I had considerable cucumber die back, but not until I canned three batches of cucumbers. For me---the earlier you get the squash in the ground, the better off you are to beat the bug attack. Then, when it comes, it is too hot, I've gotten all the harvest I can handle and my friends are sick of my food, too, and I'm ready for the break the die back gives me.

"Blossom-Drop" is a condition suffered by tomatoes, peppers, snap beans, and some other fruiting vegetables where the plant blooms but fails to set fruit, the blooms die and fall off. It may be caused by the use of excess nitrogen fertilizers or dry windy conditions, but the most common cause is temperature extremes. Tomatoes, peppers and beans are especially picky about the air temps when it comes time to set fruit. If the night temps fall below 55 or rise above 75 or if the day temps are above 90, the pollen becomes tacky and non-viable. Pollination cannot occur. If the bloom isn't pollinated, the bloom dies and falls off. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week, mulch heavily to maintain constant soil moisture levels, establish windbreaks as needed, avoid using excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers, and wait for temperatures to moderate and stabilize. Earlier timed planting can help attain fruit set prior to the on-set of high temps, and the use of protection can compensate for cool nights. Some recommend attempting hand-pollination with an artist brush or a gentle shaking of the plant/cage/support prior to the hottest part of the day will also help. Fruit set will resume when temperatures moderate. Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom drop due to LOW temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are often misshapen. But studies prove that hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due to HIGH temperatures.

It's not good using any groundwater to water carnivorous plants. Your best bet would be to use distilled or rainwater. Groundwater, such as that from a natural spring, contains dissolved minerals within it. As for the damaged pitchers, as long as they're not completely brown, then I would just leave them for the time being. They will still continue to photosynthesize (which is still a carnivorous plant's primary source of energy), and help it grow newer pitchers to replace them with. Just as you said, there is already a new pitcher growing. Which is always a good sign. Your plant will recover, just give it some time, and plenty of sunshine.

It looks like what is called a lemon-lime cypress (because of the citrus scent of the foliage), Cupressus macrocarpa 'Goldcrest' or 'Wilma Goldcrest'. This is a very popular container plant. When growing plants in a container, there are some important issues to consider: Fast drainage is key. Plant roots sitting in soggy soils will rapidly develop into root rots. So you need a properly sized container with a decently sized drainage hole(s) and filled with a very textural, barky and durable potting mix. No rubble, gravel or pot shards on the bottom - they impede rather than improve drainage. Second, you can't rely on just natural rainfall, even in winter or during your rainy season. There is very little real estate in a container for that rainfall to come into contact with - compared to ground soil - and that is complicated by it being on a balcony and not out in the open. You want to water whenever the top few inches of the container soil feels dry. And thoroughly, until the water runs freely out the drainage at the base of the container. And then don't water again until the soil feels dry. And finally, container potting mix carries no real nutrient load like garden soil does. To get what the plant needs for healthy growth, fertilizer must be applied by the gardener. You can use a controlled release fertilizer (like Osmocote) once or twice a season or you can use any liquid soluble fertilizer and water it in monthly. The pot size looks good for that sized plant so I would look to your potting mix and your watering practices. To me, the plant looks dried out. But over watering or a potting mix that is too water retentive (and many are) will produce a similar appearance. Based on your care description, I'm going with lack of water :-)