kennyken: Here's what I can make out: R1,1 -- Chinese pistache R1,2 -- Oleander R1,3 -- Bowxood R1,4 -- Verbena R2,4 -- Virginia Creeper R3,2 -- moss R3,3 -- rose rootstock R4,1 -- Elm R4,2 -- daylily, probably Stella d'Oro R4,3 -- Oak R5,1 -- Pine R5,2 -- a grass R5,3 -- Ratibida R5,4 -- Callirhoe R6, 2 -- wild oats? May I make some friendly suggestions: 1. Don't be "up front and honest" about doing a school project. There are a lot of members who post here who are VERY much against any students posting projects here. They feel it is cheating or at least taking unethical shortcuts. As far as I'm concerned, EVERYONE who posts photos here is taking a shortcut and students who take this shortcut are simply being creative. I suspect you will get a few "shame on you"s. 2. Borrow a good digital camera. Cell phone cameras suck (to put it honestly and up front) when it comes to post-able digital photos. I didn't give you answers to most of your photos not because I didn't know but mostly because I couldn't make out enough details. 3. Don't offer money. Pretty much everyone here responds to these posts because we have fun doing it. Sometimes we take up the challenge. But offering money (especially via Paypal) somehow puts a note of suspicion on your post. Joe

No I can't be sure from the photos that nutrition is the only problem. The trees look very thin on leaves -- have they been pruned recently? Have you tested the soil for pH? Do you see any wilting of the leaves at times when the soil is moist? (I'm trying to rule out blight and/or tristeza here) Where in Fla. are you? (thinking of potential for freeze injury). How old are these trees? If they were in my yard, here's what I would do: 1. I would not fertilize heavily just now. Probably what you've already done is ok. But I would get the soil tested for pH and correct that through the winter, if necessary. Try to get the soil into the pH 6.0-6.5 range. A bit lower is ok if the trees are on Swingle or another Poncirus hybrid rootstock (sprouts from ground level will have 3 leaflets rather than one) 2. I would keep a large circle of soil bare around the base of the tree with no mulches or other additives of any kind. I would particularly avoid putting anything against the trunk. 3. In mid-February, I'd apply a good citrus fertilizer, approximately equal amounts of N and K and less P (10-2-10 or similar) with micronutrients, at a pound per inch of trunk diameter or per foot of tree canopy diameter, whichever is greater. 4. If greasy spot disease is s severe problem, I would spray once, around July 1, with a citrus-labeled oil spray; otherwise I would not do any spraying of pesticides. You should be able to see greasy spot on older leaves right now, if it's present -- looks like drops of used motor oil on the undersides of the leaves, with corresponding yellow-brown spots on the top sides. The symptoms develop this time of the year, but the only time it can be controlled is summer. 5. If the soil is alkaline and I can't bring that down (sometimes a problem in extreme south Florida), I would consider a nutritional spray of the micronutrients in February. 6. Your tangelo tree -- I have my doubts that that's what it is anymore. I think it likely died to below the graft union, and the tree that came up is now rootstock variety. Not sure from the pictures, but the leaves look very small to be tangelo. Is that possible? There appears to be a fruit on it -- is that fruit a tangelo? 7. Thinking of more potential problems that could cause the symptoms being seen -- Do any of the leaves lave little semi-circular notches cut from the edges? (trying to rule out root weevil injury, the adults of which will notch the leaves). Are there any rotted lesions at the base of the trunk, where it enters the soil? (thinking of phytophthora foot rot)

She's definitely not a Brandywine, no potato leaves except the bottom leaves seemed to start that way. Zack/seysonn, LOL Great idea based on Zack's and Dave's posts ... with all those mystery tomatoes there seysonn can do a hurricane tomato naming system for his season. Start at the top of the alphabet as the season progresses, go right down the line, Antoinette, Bing, Chloe, Dmitri, Ellada, Fermín, Guiditta, Hank, etc... If you want them to be all girls, no problem, until the 1970's so were the hurricanes ... If there are more than 26 varieties, Alpha, Beta, etc... I disagree with pigeonholing heirlooms as names that are currently out of vogue. Herrlooms, the ones that survive anyway, have proven they are not susceptible to fads, and are much more attractive in general than their factory produced seed counterparts. Maybe those types shouldn't be given names at all, but just numbers, until consumers agree that they taste good enough to deserve a name ;-) PC

vesfl - I'm using an iPhone 8 which has been a great camera for me. I like the big "viewfinder" since I wear glasses and I hate having to bring a camera up to my eyes. Just wanted to share with everyone another photo of the atypical CPM. It's lighter today and looks like a bloom that may not be opening any further. I think I recall that this might have happened once before with CPM but I didn't photograph it. I'm glad I did for this bloom! Ann