Hi Yippie, Your plant is a hyacinth. Is the color correct in your photos? It looks like my Alpine Hyacinth that is blooming right now. Plant in a spot with good drainage in full to part sun. It is actually a bulb so the foliage will die back completely every year. Here's a pic of some of mine. Your 1841 looks like Forget-me-not seedlings Your 1840 is Cosmos. Eupatorium is a late rise so you may be correct that it is emerging. Your another mystery plant might be Artemisia(Mugwort.) Smell/rub the foliage. It will be strongly scented. Your aster foliage is probably correct. The proper name is cordifolius. You can find pics that way. Your photo of the plant near the aster looks like burdock, a weed unless you are going to eat it. Hope this helps, Remy

No I can't be sure from the photos that nutrition is the only problem. The trees look very thin on leaves -- have they been pruned recently? Have you tested the soil for pH? Do you see any wilting of the leaves at times when the soil is moist? (I'm trying to rule out blight and/or tristeza here) Where in Fla. are you? (thinking of potential for freeze injury). How old are these trees? If they were in my yard, here's what I would do: 1. I would not fertilize heavily just now. Probably what you've already done is ok. But I would get the soil tested for pH and correct that through the winter, if necessary. Try to get the soil into the pH 6.0-6.5 range. A bit lower is ok if the trees are on Swingle or another Poncirus hybrid rootstock (sprouts from ground level will have 3 leaflets rather than one) 2. I would keep a large circle of soil bare around the base of the tree with no mulches or other additives of any kind. I would particularly avoid putting anything against the trunk. 3. In mid-February, I'd apply a good citrus fertilizer, approximately equal amounts of N and K and less P (10-2-10 or similar) with micronutrients, at a pound per inch of trunk diameter or per foot of tree canopy diameter, whichever is greater. 4. If greasy spot disease is s severe problem, I would spray once, around July 1, with a citrus-labeled oil spray; otherwise I would not do any spraying of pesticides. You should be able to see greasy spot on older leaves right now, if it's present -- looks like drops of used motor oil on the undersides of the leaves, with corresponding yellow-brown spots on the top sides. The symptoms develop this time of the year, but the only time it can be controlled is summer. 5. If the soil is alkaline and I can't bring that down (sometimes a problem in extreme south Florida), I would consider a nutritional spray of the micronutrients in February. 6. Your tangelo tree -- I have my doubts that that's what it is anymore. I think it likely died to below the graft union, and the tree that came up is now rootstock variety. Not sure from the pictures, but the leaves look very small to be tangelo. Is that possible? There appears to be a fruit on it -- is that fruit a tangelo? 7. Thinking of more potential problems that could cause the symptoms being seen -- Do any of the leaves lave little semi-circular notches cut from the edges? (trying to rule out root weevil injury, the adults of which will notch the leaves). Are there any rotted lesions at the base of the trunk, where it enters the soil? (thinking of phytophthora foot rot)

Hi & welcome! Great boyfriend, very pretty plants. The Kalanchoe is K. blossfeldiana, specifically, usually a late-winter/spring bloomer. I know little about the AV's, and as a huge fan of combing plants it pains me to say so, but Kalanchoe & peace lily would be absolutely horrible companions, like a good example of a bad combo because of irreconcilable differences about light & moisture tolerances. They shouldn't be hard to separate because they haven't been together long enough to have grown intertwined roots, (as evidenced by the fact that all are blooming & look perfectly perky,) but whoever planted these things together should refrain from creating any further plant combos to foist on unsuspecting people. All 3 can stay alive indefinitely, in acceptable conditions, though certainly not necessary to enjoy them completely today. :+)

Start an individual post for each NOID with several pic views. Often folks need size identifiers, such as a soda can or a ruler/tape measure for reference. Many peeps on this forum enjoy a NOID challenge.