Lol ..... and I hate vermiculite for cuttings/seeds. It compacts/compresses as soon as you water from above & holds too much water and too little air for propagation. Turface (or calcined DE) with a little sphagnum peat (6:1) is great - even better is Turface with a little chopped {{gwi:772889}}, like the whole moss in the link, only chopped fine.

Al

The secret to vermiculite is particle size or coarseness. If it is coarse enough, it works very well - holding water and allowing air.

I've had the worst luck with 100% Perlite as well. A mix of 50/50 Perlite/Fertilome Ultimate Potting Mix seems to give me the best results thus far.

Based on differing views on Perlite, Vermiculite and Spanish Moss, I had decided to use 60:40 Perlite-Vermiculite mix and with success. I dropped chopped Spanish moss from the mix because when looking for roots in the clear glass it was difficult to differeniate new roots from the moss pieces (it was spoiling the fun).
I am afraid of overwatering with Vermiculite only.

For the record: There is a considerable difference between chopped Spanish moss and chopped sphagnum moss. Chopped sphagnum moss is known to have root stimulating and healing properties. It is widely used as the medium of choice for air-layering for that very reason.

Al

I'm doing perlite and "oildry" this year. I also tried one of those hydroponic set-ups with the water reservoir and an airstone aerating the water on a timer.

The hydroponic set up rotted everyone of the cuttings sacrificed to it in record time.

I only started the perlite/oildry cuttings the second week of March and I have three of 10 with visible roots and only one that has rotted.

I also put 1/4th inch pebbles in the bottom of each cup (1 1/2 layer. Drainage is excellent.

~Chills

I agree with 2 of Al's sayings:

(i) I prefer perlite (the white stuff) over vermiculite.
Mostly it has to do with moisture control.
To me P. means light/dry; V. means light/wet.

(ii)Sphagnum moss makes an excellent rooting medium.
Per Al's previous advice, I listened, tried it (in the
baggie method), and I am happy with it.
Benefits:
(a) SM makes an excellent moisture BUFFER.
(b) It contains some natural anti-mold RESISTANCE.
(c) OK for any new FRAGILE roots to STICK to it, and pot ALL
(rather than BREAKING them while separting from paper).
I recommend anybody to try it...

I ALSO agree with ottowan; in that (wet) SM does resemble
new fig-twig roots! One just needs; not sure how to say it,
how about a keen-eye?

I suspect all of you have some valid points. Particle size probably matters a lot when using Vermiculite. I have not tried the chopped moss.

Keep talkin; I'm listening and learning.

Does Oil-Dry (the stuff used on shop floors) require any treatment before use if used for rooting?
Ox

What does actually "oil-dry" is/mean?

its a clay product, similar to kitty litter, which has been discussed in the infamous soil discussions of Talpa's. It is sold as a soak for oil (and as a potted plant soil conditioner if you can believe the bag)

It doesn't seem to make a good replacement for turface, though this has been debated as oil-dry purchased in different areas seems to act somewhat differently. It does tend to break down if left in standing water (for me, though this is part of the discussion as it doesn't seem to do this for everyone) but as a soil additive it seems to hold some moisture while keeping particle size bigger than peat would (thus not encouraging soil saturation). In rooting, its smaller size to turface (at least the turface I purchased as soil conditioner) might be a plus.

This is my first real trial with it and it seems to be working well. Perhaps Talpa would chime in with his own experience if he's tried it.

~Chills

sorry about the misspelling. We are talking perlite and oil dry. Pearlite is an entirely different animal.

Gorgi:
Oil-dry (however it is spelled) is a gritty stuff that looks like crushed rock with a lot of small powdery pieces mixed in. It is as if you crushed the rock and then did not sift the dust out of it.

If spread on an oily shop floor it will soak up the oil and you can sweep it away and leave the floor dry. If you use your foot to grind the stuff into the floor it will even pull up the oil that has soaked into the pores of the concrete.

I asked about it because Chills says he is using it mixed with perlite to start his cuttings.
Ox

All oil-dry is not created equal. That's why I specified calcined DE. DE (diatomaceous earth) is the fossilized remains of tiny animals called 'diatoms'. 'Calcined' means heated or fired at temperatures so high the material melts and fuses - like ceramic. It's stable and won't break down. If you want the right stuff for cuttings or for a replacement for Turface in soils, go to any NAPA auto parts store and get their Floor-Dry. I've used it - it's sound - it works great for starting seeds, cuttings, and as a soil component.

Al

Thanks, Al:
I've got ond of the off-brands out in the shop now, but a NAPA outlet is close. I'll pick up a sack and have a look at it.

Al, Chills: What is your mix for cuttngs? In what proportions?

My cuttings in vermiculite look good, those in perlite are gone. Those in the vermiculite had a touch of mold, but I sprayed them with a mix of Chlorox and water and it cleared right up. I did try to avoid spraying the leaves, but of course I could not miss them altogether.
Ox

AS I am trying things out this year I cannot say what percentage is working best yet. I have some cuttings in 1:4 (oil-dry to perlite) 1:2 and 1:1. I have two cuttings which have already formed roots and they were both in 1:1, but my cuttings have only been in the mix for about 3 weeks (3/14). I pick up the cups and water if I cannot see condensation on the sides. The higher Oil-Dry percentages are needing to be watered less frequently.

(happily the one which rooted first and which I will likely pot up this week is the variety I wanted most. I've finally got a Sal's fig!!!)

I don't like vermiculite because when potting up it always seems to need to be thoroughly removed or it becomes a dry hard mess in the middle of the pot or one that encourages rotting by staying too wet. Perlite doesn't have this tendency, so I do not have to work to remove all of it when potting up and roots are still fragile.

~Chills