As soon I'll be able to born again I want to born: 1) quite rich 2) with five allotments of orchards (in Z: 5, 6, 7, 8). 3) and able to plant the same 40 cultivars of fig in each. 4) Having pencil and paper to write the results, year after year. As relevant M-man: It seems that you are quite out the limit of survival of the fig, (without protections or burials), but you have different cultivars and they are at least able (if trees are quite in the true same conditions) to do an experiment (take pencil, paper...). Take into account that however there are three steps for fruiting, (starting however from plant that survives): A) There are only quite conditions of mere survival of the plant (that die to the ground, and resprouts every year), fruiting is very difficult because needs overall rebuilt every year its body. B) Branches are more or less partially damaged (some fruiting comes from buds of previous year) fruiting is difficult, some fruitings may be done, some others not. C) Condition of survival of Blastofhaga psenes (pollenizer insect, small wasp), AND Presence of said insect, in carence of one or both of this two elements SOME fruiting may be impossible. I list herein the condition of survival of figs to cold, some are so obvious that to be considerd as ...silly, but you read, please. 1) The summer is sunny: the light of the sun promote hardening of wood, the light of sun promote also storage of starchs and resins that maintain not frozen the wood 2) The soil is very, very well drained, in summer so in the ground there is permanently (as possible) condition of drougth, dry harden the wood that become more cold resistant. 3) The site is, in summer, under the DIRECT light of the sun from dawn to sunset, or instead: how many hours?. 4) The site is protected, by the same slope, or hills, mountains ..., against cold winds. I'm living in Italy in one limit fig site for cold. I want notice (if also there are NOT problem directly for ligth or temp. or long summer) frequently here there is one VERY important limiting factor that damage and modify the other ones. This factor is the moist. Where wild figs survive on limit conditions always are on rock and on slopes, always are on drought, the plants are small and never herbaceous to the apex. The condition of excess of moist (herbaceous tissues), when begins the frosts means up to 18°F (11°C) (or more) of lowering in resistence to frost, that means that young herbaceous branches may be damaged at temp near 24, 25°F (approx -4, -5°C). Ciao, Sergio

I had Fiorone di Ruvo, it is a nice fig but, according to my experience, it is not a good producer in non-optimum climates. My climate is mild but a little cloudy and rainy, however no problems for other many varieties. It seems to be a San pedro type fig; no autumn crop if not caprified. The last two years I haven't any Fiorone di Ruvo breva, because of this I decided to discard it. On the contrary, the variety "Gentile" another San pedro variety, gave a decent crop of brevas (so far it is only an small grafted branch), despite it was in a less sunny place. Fiorone seems to be an excellent variety in its locality of origin (South of Italy) but, as fas as I seen, I don't recommend Fiorone di Ruvo for non sunny climates. It seems to have better San pedro varieties for cooler climates, like "Desert King" for example (I haven't tested it)

Any plant that actually attaches itself to stucco has the potential to damage the stucco. English ivy (Hedera helix), Boston ivy/Virgina creeper (Parthenocissus species) and creeping fig are especially troublesome because they attach themselves with sticky little appendages called peds. Once these peds attach themselves, they are next to impossible to remove, even if you pull down the plants. If the stucco is in good condition, they won't penetrate but attempting removal of the vines will result in any paint and chunks of stucco coming off as well. A better solution is to build a framework for plants to grow up, keeping the trellis or other framework 8-12 inches away from the stucco. This distance allows fresh air to circulate between the vine and the stucco which will maintain the integrity of the stucco and the health of the plant. Clematis, honeysuckle, wisteria and passionflower, even grape vines are all good choices for this use but will not have the similar look of the ivy. "Willn't" ??????

Look for a container several gallon capacity and place plant several nodes deeper than original container. If in windy area you can use thin bamboo sticks and affix the green stretchy tape to secure it. When plant eventually reaches height you like cut the top portion. Eventually you can place plant in larger container again, here i use 30g containers. Look for container in this picture far left about 3g for example, the larger ones are 25/30g.Martin