I've seen rooting like that above the soil line with my issai kiwi cuttings also. If you gently tug on the cutting and feel any resistance you likely have roots below also. If there are no roots below you could take it out and repot it carefully so that root is in potting mix. That root is pretty small and fragile though you might want to let it grow a bit before trying that. As for when to expose them to dry air do it gradually. you will have to use something different than the jar to do that. Maybe a clear plastic bag tied tightly then each day or 2 open it a bit to get it acclimated to dryer air. Good luck! Tyler

Oh yes - it's a very good sign. Callus is living tissue's response to wounding. Any time you take a cutting, the basal end will seal over with a plate of dead cells while the wound seals itself with a corky substance (suberin), which protects the cutting from dessication and disease pathogens. Behind this plate, living cells are beginning to divide into parenchyma cells that form the callus. As this occurs, cells in the (vascular) cambium are dedifferentiation and becoming stem (meristematic) cells. These cells are capable of redifferentiating into any of the plant organs (just like human stem cells) and differentiate into root initials if cultural conditions are favorable for root formation. The cells further organize into root primordia that emerge through stem or callus tissue at the same time vascular conducting tissues (the plumbing) are forming between root primordia and vascular tissues. Since callus formation simply indicates the presence of viable tissues in the wound area, we can certainly consider it a good sign. I think though, that the two most influential factors in coaxing cuttings to strike are our ability to provide optimal cultural conditions for rooting and the vitality (stored energy level) of the cuttings. Al

Peg, I would pot the rooted cutting now if the roots are at least 3/4". Don't worry about the roots showing outside the vermiculite as long as the cutting is right-side up. I would get pre-moistened potting soil (not to wet) that has been fluffed in a bucket and put some in the bottom of a pot, put in the cutting and crumble soil on it and cover with plastic letting it breath a couple hours day.. Do not water it by pouring water on it. I drizzle or water by misting with a spray bottle. I have found that using water like from a hose or watering with lots of water at once compresses the soil and causes rotting. I havent lost a cutting yet doing this. You have my email peg, email me if you have any questions.

Another thing to consider---young rooted plants oftentimes have very delicate roots, and, even though they literally are coming out of the bottom of the pot. When the seller goes to clean the soil from the roots for shipping, many are lost. After a year or so the roots get really tough, but the "same year" cuttings are usually not this way. I find it no problem, really. I import plumerias from Australia and can tell you their definition of "rooted" on plants they send me means they have small nubs, or, maybe if you're lucky, more than this. The term they use is "struck" cuttings--have produced their first roots. I find that, if the plant has gone this far, it typically performs perfectly fine since it is in fact no longer just a cutting but has formed te structures it needs to survive on its own in soil. That being said, when I send customers plants, I am not comnfortable sending them plants with nubs only because US customers don't understand this and it becomes more of a headache trying to explain this to worried people than it's worth. I sometimes sell same year rooted cuttings and indicate they will have a small root system. This means typically at least a minimum of 2-5 inches in length remaining after cleaning away the soil. I also indicate when selling such plants that they are young rooted cuttings. As long as you buy them in the Spring and Summer, there really shouldn't be any problems as long as they are not overwatered or overfertilized; planted in a well-drained mix. I have seen many of these plants take off and grow like mad within a couple of weeks of planting. But, that also does depend on the time of year. To add a note on time of year: I would not recommend buying plumerias after September unless you live in a place that has warm temps right through Christmas (or better: all year), or, you have a proper greenhouse facility. Plumeria in their first year after arriving at your place late in the year can often succumb to what I call The Dreaded Winter Rot while in Winter Storage. There have been many speculations as to what causes this, but honestly, I have seen it on plants that shouldn't have gotten it otherwise if you listen to the supposed causes. ALL were young plants that hadn't been with me for over a year. I think the slowing down of the growth due to the late season is part of the problem combined with stress setting in from it being cleaned and shipped to you. This allows microorganisms the plant would normally fend off to take hold. It is a sinking feeling to find that plumeria you spent $$ on is a stick of mush when you go to get it to set out in the Spring.I am not saying all plants bought late will rot, but they are the primary ones that will have this problem. Occasionally the bigger ones get it, but this is much more rare. During dormancy ans winter storage it is crucial you do not water (unless excessive shrivelling is noted-- then give a small drink only)--especially the young ones. My plumerias go into the greenhouse around Christmas and stay there until early March because Jan and Feb are our cold months here. You can stack pots on onto the other and in between since there are no leaves; uproot in-ground plants and simply store them standing up with no soil or water (crazy, huh?). Some people in colder places put loose newspaper around the roots. I don't bother. The last two years I filled up my large greenhouse with them and they sat in there with no water until I brought them out again. The bare rooted ones were planted in the ground once again and have grown this year at least tweo feet already. Didn't mean to get off on winter sotrage but I felt it was appropriate as we were discussing plants with small roots/young plants. This is pretty important stuff to know concerning their care. ;-) Brad