Please help. I have been told to and have used "General Cure", contains 250 mg Metronidazole and 75 mg Praziquantel per packet. I used 3 for my 30g tank (per instructions) treatment last night for Shubunkin (5") with very red patch at base of gill. First noticed very slight light brown color at base of dorsal fin, fin clamping and the fish gasping(few days ago). Then I noticed the redness on gills and now at base of bottom fins, I also notice a small white node or something the size of large salt grain on the redness in both locations. The red on the bottom looks round and protrudes from the fish. The fish tries to eat but I can tell he/she is very uncomfortable, the mouth motion is also not normal, seems like mouth gets stuck closed sometimes. The fish does dart around at times and mostly sits still near bottom of the tank. I have recently (2 weeks ago) added a new smaller (2") shubunkin. Prior to adding the new fish the water did need to be changed, I hadn't done it for a few weeks. I noticed the pH was low but the old fish (we originally found him in our outdoor pond) always did fine but thought new fish may not do well because it came from 7.0pH evironment, so I added something (I forget the name) to raise pH. So I did the water change and added the new fish (after floating him to get acclimated and adding some existing tank water), made a mistake and added the water that came with the new fish to the aquarium. The new fish came from an outdoor pond/fish store. I also put in a small piece of plant material for them to graze on. It is one of those oxygenating plants for outdoor pond (which I do have, but no fish because it's only 18" deep - which is why we had to take out the now sick Shubunkin, he wouldn't have survived the winter). Promptly removed plant after they showed no interest (a day or two). The new fish (much smaller) chased around the older fish for a couple of days and then they got used to one another, chasing stopped. I do believe the older fish was slightly stressed by this, even though he/she is much larger. Person at pet store suggested it is probably a parasite and suggested the above medication. I also added some aquarium salt 4 tablespoons predissoved and added it slowly over 12 hour period. I have also attached two photos. The fish is beginning to look like he/she is losing weight and getting "flat" color. The other fish looks healthy. Also it seems to me the fishes skin looks thinner, especially around or on the head/gill area. Aquarium - 30 gallons Filter - Whisper Power filter 30 No bio-wheel Removed carbon Black plastic mesh media in filter Has been established for 7 months Using dropper type Ammonia - 0 Using Laguna brand test strips Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 40 PH - 5.5-6.0 Alkalinity - 80 Temp - 68 Hardness - Soft water or 25PPM Any advice would be greatly appreciated, this fish is special to us. Also, I have recenlty read using pH products is not good, any suggestions on how to raise pH? Thank you. Image link:

Most fish can adapt to varing ph levels but it has to be done very slowly. It's possible the original fish was shocked by the ph change. I would do regular small water changes and not mess with the ph. As long as the fish is eating he has a good chance of surviving. Good luck.

I have the W1986 which is 6K, slightly larger than the 1113, older than it, but newer than the 1918. I adjust the detergent to the amount of soil and clothes being washed. If the soil is light(not really visible) I will use 1 teaspoon. If the soil is light but the load is large I will use 2 teaspoons. As the soil gets heavier I increase the amount slightly but only go over 2 tablespoons for one load which is heavily soiled white with ground in dirt(white socks and underwear). My water hardness is currently 16 grains per gallon. For heavy soiled items I do a prewash with a bit of detergent. The prewash starts with cold water which is gradually heated to warm. You use the heavy soil button to get a prewash. For very heavy soiled items you can use the extended option. This will increase the time for all parts of the cycle. I would try these ideas before increasing the amount of detergent. The higher the temperature used the more active the detergent becomes. I think the 1113 can heat to 190F or 205F so you may want to use less detergent when using these temperatures. You will find the temperatures listed on the quick start program guide. Also if you are using PERSIL for whites, it already contains oxygen bleach so adding oxiclean is a no no and will cause excess foaming and poor rinsing. Vinegar I would only use 1 tablespoon or less. FS I use less than the lowest amount the manufacturers recommend.

@johns coastal patio... RO water is not "pure water" just filtered to a high degree. Distilled water would be more "pure" water. Your link clearly mentions super heating which a coffeemaker does not do and distilled water which RO water is not. @ Imp.capensis... Typical ROs have a 90%-95% rejection rate so if your TDS is 300 you should expect at least 30 and down to 15 if you have a really good RO that is routinely serviced so you're in the ballpark. The rejection rate lowers as the membrane ages. Sometimes you can get back some rejection with pre and post filter changes. If your water is ZERO hardness (correctly softened) that helps also cause calcium goes through the pre-filters and the membrane has to deal with it. Tell the Tassimo CSRs that when you buy water from the machine at Walmart there's a big RO inside and see what they say. I once called Keurig with a question and they wanted to know the last time i decalcified the Keurig. I said "never". They inquired "didn't the decalcify" show up in the display and I said NO. They said that my Keurig was broken cause it never asked to be decalcified. I asked "what if there's no calcium in the Keurig" and that was five years ago and all my machines continue to work perfectly.