How to propagate Thuja
Comments (8)
blue_yew
13 years ago
gardener365
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Green Giant Thuja- Is it True how fast it grows???
Comments (99)I planted 50 leyland's 3 years ago. They were in the 5 gallon buckets, about a foot tall each. Now they are 12 to 14 feet tall. Not one has died, gotten cancer or been toppled. I live in Northwest Georgia. These trees have seen the most extreme weather our area has seen in years. Let me give some unsolicited advice, with all due respect. 1. Whether they are green giant or leyland or arbovitae of any kind: Make sure you know your soil, make sure you know your frost level, and make sure you PLANT AND WATER AND FERTILIZE them appropriately. If you don't have time to manage them, then don't plant them. 2. Plant them far away from structures you don't want them to grow into. i.e: fences, buildings, septic tanks, neighbors who hate their shade etc. 3. plant them double their pot width, ONLY to the top of the pot you bought them with and with 1/2 native soil and the other half conducive to your local weather and environment. Be prepared to tie them off with rope that have maybe some cut pieces of garden hose around the rope to keep them from choking and which will help keep them level in high wind times if you are in a high wind area. 4. Applying water and appropriate nutrients is huge, but easy. GG's and Leyland demand alot of water if on a slope with hard clay or dense soil. Down south if you are in red clay, then water them morning and night for the first month or two. If you are up north or in moist soil, once a week watering with any spronkler system is going to be ok, just dont overwater at night, stick to early mornings. I applied 10/10/10 in a circle about 1 foot out from the tree bole in early spring, and then again early summer, because my red clay is very acidic, hence the 10/10/10. Nice basic nutrients. 5. Don't flip out about the cancer issues that you might tend to google; you are planting a long term resource for shade and beauty and perhaps privacy, so pay attention to your trees....daily. If the branches are browning on the outside but green on the inside, that ok, it's just growth. If you see a ring around the trunk, then do some research, I won't go into detail here. Just watch your trees, and remember, if you are planting in a row or around fences/property, your soil may be very different from one side to the other. The pic below is a recent one of my Leyland's after 3 years. They started out at about a foot. This is in PACKED Georgia red clay with lots of rocks. You may experience some growtg difference, but if they look healthy, they are healthy. I must say: Your initial soil preparation is huge. Plant them well. The GG's and Leyland's have a tap root that if given proper care, will grow deep and delve for nutrients. Out of 50 planted not one has died or had a problem. I am not a tree doctor nor do I play one on TV. I am...a lover of oxygen....See MoreHow do you pronounce Thuja?
Comments (39)The discussion reminds me of a story from my grad school days. One of the professors was an Asian fellow named Dr. Hu. When he first introduced himself he pronounced his name "Dr. Hugh", and that was how I subsequently referred to him. One day when talking about him with several of the other students, I was asked why I said his name that way since everyone else pronounced his name "Dr. Who". When I replied that that was how he himself pronounced his name so it had to be correct, I was informed that he only said it that way because of his accent. I thought this was a very funny statement but the other student was in earnest, the implication being that since I do not speak with a Chinese accent I should say the name the right way, "Dr. Hu". To this day, it still makes me chuckle to think of the student who believed that Dr. Hu prounced his own name wrong. Alex...See MoreThuja plicata x Thuja standishii new growth
Comments (2)at the link below.. suggested growth rate is 2 to 5 feet per year ... you meant the green giants.. yes?? why would you presume that Britain would have a slower growth rate ..??? ken Here is a link that might be useful: link...See MoreThuja seeds and propagation
Comments (2)I get a 404 on that link. I suggest you take photos of your actual plant, rather than a link to a website and then post it on the Conifer Forum. It's much busier than this one and the experts hang out there....See Morespruceman
13 years agogardener365
13 years agoHere you go Spruce. Photos showing preparation of Thuja hardwoods (Metasequoia had to be added/used to show this process). It's still the same. One note though: sometimes just stripping off a branch is all that is needed. Otherwise, shown, are a pair of scissors from 'The Dollar Store' being used (photos thanks to a friend).
A cutting:
Step two - also why scissors are easiest (as well as to collect the cuttings from the mother plants):
Step three (removal of bark on a larger cutting):
Removal of bark on a smaller cutting (see that the foliage has also been trimmed - this is a Metasequoia hardwood cutting which will only root as a hardwood during spring. Otherwise as a summer cutting [July 1] new growth must be used - and the same is true for Thuja)
Rooted cuttings in Trademark Rootmaker Cells after they have been taken off mist:
Water + Dip n' Grow rooting hormone at a rate of 1:6 respectively:
A mist table for your seeing:
*Note*
Mist settings are adjusted to suit the weather. What you're trying to accomplish are cuttings not having large droplets of water on any of the leaf surfaces, and so the cuttings have a chance to dry, prior to the next mist.These photos are from a nursery in Ohio USA zone 5 (extreme summer heat and humidity) - this guy runs his system, averaging... a six second mist - every 6 minutes - from a 24-hour - wired clock. When the cuttings have rooted (you can lift the roots with a pocket knife to look), they go to a second mist bench... that mists the cuttings 6 seconds every hour, probably for a few weeks. I don't know exactly how long they stay on the second table. Then, they go down to the floor or are placed in a shade structure etc- and are kept watered.
This process when began early spring allows for a chance to up-pot the cuttings to a large enough container, to gain enough root mass, to be overwintered successfully... (the same does apply to late June/early July cuttings) - again - in an extreme winter climate there will be enough time to establish enough of a root-system to make it thru the winter.
Dax
sluice
13 years agospruceman
13 years agomuaiyd_gmail_com
12 years ago
gardener365