One yr I did leaves, carpet, more leaves, and then a tarp. I couldn't tell any difference compared to the uncovered plants. This yr I'm going to start with 4-8 layers of frost blanket depending on temperature. If they survive moderate frost with that I'll add more below 20F. Still may not be enough as these plants are young, new, and greener than any other yr at this time.

Yuccas do not die after flowering. And they will provide a very similar effect to the phormium without the hassle of necessary winter protection. But you will not get the intensity and variety of foliage color with a yucca. Cordyline is a very commonly found plant sold as a summer annual that could substitute (i.e. 'Red Sensation') and tends to be far less pricey than the flax. Phormium, N.Z. flax, is not a houseplant but a tender perennial that is sold widely as a landscape plant in warmer zones (8+). They can get huge (6-7' tall and equally as wide, depending on cultivar). They are becoming more frequent in colder zones as a seasonal container plant. When moved indoors, they are very prone to mealy bugs, so watch for that if you bring indoors to overwinter.

After being told these wouldn't live indoors, I tried some cuttings. I put them under an aquarium light. They all rooted and have been blooming off and on all winter. They are now trailing out of the pot. I think those who can't over-winter them could easily grow them indoors. People use simple aquarium lights for growing all sorts of plants indoors. Every cutting I tried rooted and grew well indoors. I'm pretty sure they would grow in a bright window without the extra lighting.

Hi, lovetogarden: If you plant a fig tree in the ground, be prepared to winterize it during the winter months every year! My zone is 5 or 6? I have 1 in-ground fig tree (maybe a Kadota), it was indoored for several years previously. It was moved to the ground last summer. The roots were getting too heavy for me to move the pot in and out of the house. As I had no prior experience of winterization, last year was a first try of that. I DO NOT have the strength and no one to help me to bury my 3 and a half feet tall fig tree, so: By myself, I put a lot of dried leaves, a wire cage, old carpet and 1 large cardboard box for the tree. I am sure that I gave my fig tree enough insulation, but the top branches of the tree died of mold. I assume this is due to I did not keep the tree dry (not covering the whole thing with a plastic cover, melted snow went into the tree). Well, at least it is NOT DEAD and growing well again! Now my tree is about 1 foot high with lots of new growth at the base of the tree. What I`ve learned it is tricky to winterize the fig tree when the weather is not stable-1 day cold, then the next day is hot! Moisture builds up in the tree when it is insulated that can cause mold. This coming winter I will do the winterization in several steps. To put the insulation up, I will do it in 2 steps: In November, I will put the initial insulation. I will put in leaves but not too much. Then around December 21 when the temperature drops significantly, I will put more insulation for the tree and this time I will make sure I put a plastic sheet to cover the whole thing. To remove the insulation when Spring is coming, I will do this in a 2 steps also. Because April is still not warm enough to uncover the fig tree, I would not want to remove the insulation and then have an early frost kill my fragile, beloved fig tree! It is much safer to remove the insulation in the beginning of May! Maybe after reading my post will convince you enough to put your fig tree(s) into a pot and do the shuffle for the winter months!