To- Densise: I'm sorry but I didn't seem to get you email...maybe gardenweb was being goofy and didn't forward it? Would you please resend the info if you are still interested? Shanoncl and Chris, Look for an email sometime soon Ohh and Chris, I would recommend nicking the outer coat so you can actually see a bit of the white internal embryo of the seed. I would use a wood/metal file or coping saw blade so water can actually get through the coat, although I haven't actually tried to sprout these guys last fall so this is all speculation based on other seeds with hard coats like lotus which need to be nicked...Sandpaper *may* work but I have a feeling it would take a while to actually get through. Dorisl-Did you read the book "the ghosts of evolution", If not I'd recommend it. It has all kinds of other fun plants like the Kentucky coffee bean tree which are missing their Pleistocene large mammal dispersers http://www.amazon.com/Ghosts-Evolution-Nonsensical-Ecological-Anachronisms/dp/0465005527 Anybody still interested in trading? I'd really like some new seeds :)

Hi guys, howareya? Ive only got six seeds available. There are three people interested, so Ill divide the six between anybody who emails me by the end of the day, K? Doris

Virtually all the coffee tree seeds I've collected up here in zone 4, I collected in late Sept-October, and the inside of the pods was still green and a bit moist. I'd imagine they'd be fully ripe in zone 5 by now. Also, you're aware of the scarification needs of coffee tree seeds, right? They have a very hard seed coat, and most will take YEARS to sprout if simply direct-planted into the soil. It's hypothesized that mastodons and ground sloths used to feed on the pods, and the thick coating stopped stomach acids from destroying them until they were "deposited" somewhere else. I've started quite a few from seed by either filing an edge off with a nail file and soaking them in water overnight, or dropping them into a cup of near-boiling water and letting them soak overnight. Ones that swell up are good to go, either into a pot, a planting bed, or directly where you want a tree. No need for cold stratification either, just store dry in a jar over the winter. Good luck!

I have been using a hot water treatment to scarify the other seeds I have been planting that called for scarification. I was a little skeptical that it would work for such a thick seed coat, but if it has been proven successful, I will certainly go that route. The way I have been doing it is to boil a pot of water, remove it from heat, and throw the seeds in for 1 minute. Is there a particular amount of time the KCT seeds should be scalded for? I imagine if 1 minute is required for Eastern Redbud, that more time would be necessary for KCT seeds. Many thanks to all who responded. -Werner J Stiegler GW: Klavier