I am colder than you are but here's what I do. As the water temp starts cooling in the fall I switch to a cold water food, then when the water temp reaches about 50 degrees I stop feeding them. According to what I have read, their digestive systems start shutting down around 50 degrees. If they are hungry there is always algae or insects of some kind available. I have tried different techniques through the winter. I always shut down the stream and waterfalls as the ice would make them overflow and empty the pond. Sometimes I have just dropped the hose into the pond and left the pump running. Sometimes I have used a bubbler, but last winter I think it quit or froze up. All my fish died, so I'm not doing that again. I may go back to using the pump and add a de-icer to keep a hole open. I usually cover the pond because it is only 2 1/2 feet deep and a severe winter might freeze it too much. In the spring, after the ice has melted, I put the thermometer in. After the water has warmed up to 50 degrees I start feeding the cold water food and then switch over to regular food as it gets over 65 degrees. I dont know if any of this is "right" but it is what I do. Anne

Sanantoniorose, not that it effects your set, up but here is some additional information that popped out this morning from the Internet, about other plants that like and grow well in moving water. Quote: ..."Certain submerged plants grow well in moving water, such as the pockets in streams and under waterfalls. Others require still, placid water to grow. Vallisneria, Ranunculus, Sagittaria, and Potamogeton all do well in slowly to moderately moving water. They look great in pond narrows were the water will flow and give the plants direction, adding to the effect of the moving water. . . . Those that perform well in greater wind and wave movement are also suitable near fountains and the mouths of waterfalls. One of my favorite places to plant Vallisneria americana ÂGiant is in a deep stream or near the edge of a waterfall where its long strap-like leaves can undulate in the moving water. Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata) is great in 4-12 inches of wavy water where it forms an aquatic sod." end quote. From Speichert, S., Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants, p 343 Timber Press, 2004. End of quote. The terrestrial plant, Impatiens [Lat] or Impatient[Eng] [Balsam Family +], if planted bare root in running water, in a stream or waterfall, will out do Impatiens/Impatient planted in soil in the garden, for size and blooms. I thought that this maybe of interest to you and others [then again maybe not!] "Horton"

I personally wouldn't worry about losing some of the roots since their removal will stimulate more root production. Some people advocate breaking up the root ball on clematis when planting in the ground. I typically only do it to plants whose roots are rootbound but can't see what the difference would be in your case.

I have..... water lilies: "Joey Tomaczek" (a hardy canary yellow) and "Texas Dawn" (softer yellow much larger bloom, also a hardy lily) Check out the photo at http://www.waterplantsforponds.com/hardy-water-lilies/texas-dawn.htm I also have lemon bacopa, violet stemmed taro, and white La iris(I think the cultivar is Mississippi Deb ???). I'll send any or all to you for postage. I would like any blue or purple bearded iris. I was a newbie at this once too, and I really appreciated all the pass-along plants people gave me. Lemmeknow, scuba_al