Agree that those dates are just recommendations. They mean do not plant before but anytime after is fine. Please include your location or at least your gardening zone in any posts or replies. Your location makes a BIG difference in the information we supply to you. For example, in much of the country this year normal last frost dates aren't valid as frosts are coming as much as 2-3 weeks late. So be sure to check your long term weather forecast before planting. For future reference, it is your soil temp that best determines when seeds should be planted, not some artificial dates on a calendar. So learn to measure and monitor your soil temps. Dave

Thank you very much for your replies,great to hear it seems ok to you and somewhat releaving as it's never nice to have to replace something and wait again for it to grow!!! That dark indentation mark in the middle of the stem definitely wasn't there when I planted it so it's not an old scar but maybe its winter damage to tender greenhouse grown tissues that healed/is healing? I just now saw it leafless for the first time so I don't know how normal the holes in the center of certain scars are but I think that this is the place where dormant buds normally are and to me,those holes would indicate that the pith/center of the stem rotted or it's still rotting but maybe it didn't spread to the vital parts like the bark,or it only affected that indented part of the bark. But the whole stem is firm and not giving in to pressure(well,didn't squeeze with crushing intentions,just gentle checking with gradual pressure). I guess boring insects could also be a possibility but the hole shape and smoothness or cracking doesn't fit very well with the usual look of borer holes in plants/trees. But maybe! I saw holes on the stem of another rooting plumeria I got from a seller and these seemed clearly borer holes so I grew isolated at Melissia,hundreds of km away from the pictured Plumeria, but rot set in in the middle of the stem and it was dead in no time. I saved a Pattaya Star from the same seller with no borer holes but rot at the growing point that must have entered from a claw and from possible surface cold damage as Melissia are quite cold and I didn't bring in in cold nights initially. Have you seen similar marks develop on your Plumerias and did they live fine with them and heal nicely? Thank you very much in advance :) Best regards, -Konstantinos

gardengal: There is variation from species to species, but studies (Alverez and Korner, "low temperature limits of root growth in deciduous and evergreen temperate tree species", 2007 is one) that indicate no root growth below 6 degrees Celsius with 85% of all growth at temperatures above 9 degrees. tom: Your ponts are well taken, but the big difference between the pot and the soil has to do with more than just temperature. The sudden change from a well-aerated, fast draining potting mix to soil that combines cold and usually excessive wetness is the problem. While root activity in the pot may have temporarily ceased, i still think waiting until the soil has warmed to 50 or so is more likely to result in a quicker establishment of the tree. The "plant as soon as the soil can be worked" probably applies to most of North America, but ought to be used with caution in Canada and the northern tier states. I totally agree that in this particular case the leaves are more of an issue than anything else and that planting now will probably not result in any sort of disaster. At the same time, I don't really don't see any reason not to keep it in the pot a while longer. Unless it's just too heavy to move from sun to shade as needed or even indoors to avoid a late freeze, why not wait?

I'm sorry to say the odds are high that the seeds in the first pictures won't. The seed embryo is quite fragile and quickly dies once it sprouts if it dries. Dave