Poke salat - truth vs myth
mollymcbee
18 years ago
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mollymcbee
12 years agoBama1981
10 years agoRelated Discussions
pond fish problems
Comments (12)I absolutely believe plants can clear green ponds...have posted that many times. The myth is that this is done buy higher plants. One of the simpler things to show as a myth. A green pond has what level of ammonia and nitrate? Certainly that's easy to test, anyone can. Or a person can read lots of research on this for fish farms and other farm type ponds done by the ag department adn many Universities. A green pond almost always test to 0 ammonia and nitrate. Why? Because it's green. Algae is a plant (for our discussion anyways). Plants use ammonia and nitrate to produce new cells. Millions of green cells appear in a pond guess where they got the ammonia and nitrate? Now you have million of green cells floating around waiting for one thing in order to divide...more ammonia or nitrate. You have a water column filled with these cells just waiting to bump into an ammonia or nitrate molecule. When it does it can split (oversimplification sure). The myth says if you add higher plants to a green pond they will clear the water by out competing the algae for these nutrients. This myth only seems believable to people who do not test for ammonia/nitrate. If a green pond is already at 0 ammonia/nitrate...so how does it starve these millions of algae cells? For some unexplained reason the myth purveyors ignore the elephant in the room...algae is a plant. So why doesn't the algae starve itself to death. If you believe the myth and don't want it disproved the only possibility must be the higher plant must out compete the algae. Mine you I've never read any promoter of this to ever offer any data from any study about this. Their proof is purely deductive reasoning, which is fine if the deductions are true. But they aren't. Say we place a potted plant in the pond. Ammonia comes out of a fishes gills. That ammonia molecule has to float by thousands, maybe millions, of algae cells who are just begging to suck it up. For the myth to be true these algae cells would have to be very polite little creatures.Now our little ammonia molecule has to get into the pot's media...so easy task. But say it does...now the higher plant can suck it up and millions of the poor algae cells starve and die. Killed by politeness. When the algae all die those nutrients are released. But for some mysterious no algae decide to use these new nutrients...only the higher plants. For this deductive reasoning to be valid a green pond would have to be rich in nutrients and a clear pond void of some key nutrient. And I think many people believe this to be true and so self evident they do not need to test the water or even do some reading. And of course many people today believe science and data is all a big hoax. But anyone who has ever measured the nutrients in green and clear ponds will very quickly find out is the opposite is true. A green pond is extremely low in key nutrients and a clear pond very or extremely high. More evidence we can deduce. Many people report adding plants and within a short time the pond suddenly clears. Sometimes overnight. Wow, the added higher plants sucked up all the nutrients and killed all the algae in hours. For this deduction to be true at least 2 things must be true. First a key nutrient level must be zero. If the water is tested it probably will be zero ammonia.nitrate, because it was the day before too. Oops. One problem with that, it isn't how plants work. Many people seem to think these key nutrients like ammonia/nitrate are like air. If we don't get air we die in a short time. Algae died in a short time so nitrate must be like air. Or maybe people think nitrate is like food is to us. Closer, but we can live for a long time without food, algae can't. Well, nitrate isn't exactly like our food, it's a nutrient, not a calorie. Nutrients are needed to build cells. For us that means new skin cells, bone, etc. Algae use it to make new cells, to reproduce. They, like us, can live for a really long time lacking nutrients because their structure, like ours, has already been built. A tiny amount is needed to run processes, but mostly for cell construction. You can take as many multivitamins as you like, but if you don't consume calories you'll die in around 3 weeks. Algae get their calories from photosynthesis so they can live for a very long time without nutrients. So the higher plant starving algae theory has some massive holes that promoters never explain. They don't really have to because pond forums are full of people who believe the same. Fact is proven by popular vote which is becoming more accepted as fact these days....thank you internet. But there is one deduction that is true...adding plants to a pond does sometime clear a pond. Many people have posted this and I've seen it myself more than a few times. It's obvious to anyone doing basic water testings that it sure as heck can't be the higher plants starving the algae because the tests prove the opposite. What could it be? A long time ago a dude name Norm Meck made a really ground breaking discovery and published his findings. He found that water from a clear pond can be toxic to green water algae. He described how he did the experiment so others could repeat the experiment to see if they got the same results. I've never read about anyone else ever bothering, most people are much too busy repeating myths in forums, but I did. And I found the same thing. Something in the water killed the green water algae. Where did this toxin come from? Norm's theory was a bacteria produced it so the dead algae cells could be eaten. Not a bad theory, not great. Killing a pond full of algae so this bacteria could eat for a day or two doesn't seem like something nature would do. But a reasonable theory for it's time (thousands of years ago in internet years). Norm's experiments inspired me to do more experiments. This was before UV filters were common and cheap so green water was an actual problem. I set up a bunch of small tanks on the roof of my San Jose house and started growing green water algae. Full sun and I'm adding lots of fertilizer to water. I'm getting water that looks like green paint. I'm experiment away and getting nowhere. I found a filter that would clear green water...it was amazing...but then it completely failed other times (had to do with algae lifecycle, another story). It was a roller coaster ride. I was kind of giving up. Well I had some Pennywort I was wanting to reproduce and I had a bunch rooting in styrofoam cups...where to put them. I put a bunch into one of the test ponds. Green water wouldn't hurt them. A week or so later I went up to the roof to top off the tanks and the tank with the Pennywort was clear. I do the Meck test and sure enough the water was toxic to green water algae. At that time my best (only) theory was Norm's, it was bacteria. Well there was a lot of string algae in the tank from the Pennywort, darn stuff gets into everything. So I pull a bunch out threw it down into one of my ponds. It was a good handful. I tossed into a pond that at the time had a deep gravel bed maybe 6-10" of water above the grave which was 16-18" deep and the water was green. I just threw the string algae in there because I didn't want it on the patio, lawn flower beds, and it would be easy to fish out later. The next morning the pond I'd tossed the string algae into was clear. That pond was about 900 gals and at the time had no pump or filter and had been green the entire time I had it, more than a year. This is the time when you stare at something and run through every possible related thing from your past that might explain this. I couldn't come up with a theory. Testing nutrient levels came up with the same results and the Meck test showed the water was now toxic to green water algae. The bacteria theory seemed unlikely to me now. The string algae was the one common factor I saw in my limited experiments. So I started experimenting with both green water algae and string algae. I had terrible results. Sometimes the string algae cleared the green water but many times the string algae died. It was tough going because string algae takes a long time to appear dead. And I was having a difficult time growing both string algae and green water algae. And I kind of lost interest because by now my filter had cleared my pond and that was good enough for me. Years later I started reading about research about allelochemicals, stuff plants create to fight other plants. Growing up I knew some plants did that, like Black Walnut trees killing grass beneath it, but never made the connection to algae. The research was finding more and more plants doing it and many people were starting to think this was very common in the plant world. I made the connection then and researched algae. Unfortunately the only research I could find was done on marine algae and they did find they were producing chemicals toxic to other plants. Not directly related to freshwater algae but a pretty darn good theory. Then I started reading old pond forum posts, archived stuff. And I saw the string algae pattern over and over. People adding plants, seeing their ponds clear and then awhile later asking about how to get rid of string algae. They never made the connection between adding plants and the string algae because of course there's no visible string algae on the plants because the seller always pulls it off. But little bits and spores are certainly present. I also read about Trickle Towers which were popular at the time. TT are used to remove ammonia but many people were reporting their ponds cleared. There were lots of theories but nothing that made much sense. But people were also talking about string algae growing on their TT, saying they'd never had string algae before. And even further back people who added streams were seeing their ponds suddenly clear followed by reports of string algae in the stream. I started asking people in forums complaining of green water if they had string algae. In most cases people had one or the other, sometimes both but never full blown string algae. While it hasn't been proven I certainly believe string algae is the source of the toxin and responsible for ponds suddenly clearing. At least I haven't been able to think of any holes. And every year there's more and more research into allelochemicals that keeps pointing to the same conclusion. My theory is green water algae use both resource competition (blocking sunlight) and allelochemicals to fight against at least some species of string algae and maybe other macro algae. The string algae is probably mainly just using allelochemicals against the green water algae. In order to win the string algae has to get a foot hold near the surface of the pond so green water algae couldn't block as much light and weakening the string algae. Tops of marginal plant pots, streams, TTs, my shallow ponds (the test ponds were about 6-10" deep). I believe that string algae is the plant causing green ponds to clear and it has nothing to do with higher plants or them starving algae to death. It fits way better anyways at least until someone shows there are holes in the theory. The real answer may come from aquarists. In the past few years some aquarists have been adding separate tanks of string algae and have seen clearer water. These guys are pretty serious and do a lot of testing. Most believe the nutrient starving theory although their tests show otherwise. I think they're assuming its a micro nutrient, but they have all the same holes as the high plant theory. There is at least one aquarist pursuing the allelochemical theory. And he has been testing other underwater plants that may also produce allelochemicals. It fits that any underwater plant might need such a weapon. I know must everyone stopped reading long ago, and I too don't really care any more about why ponds clear. We have cheap UV filter now and that's that. The one thing I still do find fascinating is why people still push the higher plant myth. It is just so easy to disprove. Why not repeat some other theory that's at least harder to disprove? To me that's interesting. My wife is on to me wasting time in pond forums again so I bid you a good day. Sorry, but I didn't have the time or desire to proof read this and make corrections....See MoreA few first of the season
Comments (19)Chances are very slim that you'll get sick. Botulism is pretty rare, but it's really nasty stuff (can be fatal, even if you recover it's months in the hospital on a ventilator) which is why the FDA and USDA are so cautious about it. If the peppers were grown in pots and watered with city water I wouldn't worry. Given that you are west of the Rockies where the spores are more often found in the soil than on the East Coast, if grown in-ground, I'd be a little more cautious. 72 hours is not great, at room temperature and in low-acid, low-oxygen environment toxins can develop to dangerous levels. Refrigeration will slow the growth of any toxin if there were spores, but really it's your call. But boiling for 10 minutes (as recommended for any canned low-acid nonpickled veggie, even if properly processed in a pressure canner) before eating would IMPO be safe at 72 hours, though the peppers will be softer. But now you know for next time. I'd use the NCHFP recipes, the Joy of Pickling, or ask over on Harvest rather than relying on eHow or Youtube or prepper sites. Lots of misinformation out there. I don't peel jalapenos or pepperoncini, just slice them or if pickled whole try to wash around the stem and blossom end really well, poke holes or slash the sides so vinegar can get in, at least half 5% vinegar (white wine vinegar is nice) half water. Can process the jars in any pot tall enough to cover the jars with an inch or 2 of water the whole time. Jars don't need to be sterilized if processing for 10 minutes or more (which you will be). You do need some sort of rack or trivet on the bottom so water can flow freely under the jars and you don't want the jars packed in tight and touching or they may break. Warm the jars before filling with boiling brine, cool on a rack 24 hours without disturbing them, then you can test the lids. All this info on Harvest and NCHFP. Ball company is having a live broadcast on July 15th about common canning "myths" and how you're really supposed to do it. You may be interested, though they've had technical difficulties in the past, but they will take questions. Here is a link that might be useful: Ball webcast This post was edited by ajsmama on Tue, Jul 8, 14 at 15:07...See Morefor those of you in bear country...I need some advice
Comments (23)hey everybody...first off, thanks for all your responses, including your condolences. We will be ok, in time. Secondly, if any of you are wondering why it's taken me so long to respond, it's because for some reason my computer friend here does not seem to want to open any threads I have posted on and keeps popping up an irritating little "operation aborted" box. I am guessing it has something to do with the anti-spam/anti-cookie program we run occasionally, but I am not sure. Anyway, some days opening my treasured forums site slows to a crawl and I don't always have the time/patience for it. Now, back to the topic at hand. I did order some pepper spray, but the company I worked with advised me to not go with the bear formula but instead order a police-issue type because the bear formulation is way too much for a human and could in fact be a lethal dose. I could just see her trying it out when we were gone and having it drift back in her own face...eeeks. I was WAY put off by the cost: which came up to 84$ and change for an 8 oz canister and two purse sized ones. I could have gotten three gallons of GAS for that much money!! :) I will just keep that bit of info to myself, and besides, she is pleased with the whole plan overall, and that is worth a million dollars to me anyway. I am willing to bet that she never once has to use the stuff, but knowing she has it and that it does have stopping power will be a huge confidence booster. I wish I could explain her personality in words that don't make it sound as if I am disdainful or disrespectful...her siblings have told me that she was raised "the baby" and as a result led a pretty sheltered life but that's all over now and it will be really really hard for her. Her son and I need to be as supportive as we can without becoming her security net....See MoreFavorite garden links: rose fragrance, diseases & pests, fertilizer
Comments (51)Got curious about compost tea. This is the second time I checked. Early this summer time I spent 1 hour researching but was disappointed. Here's one link from United Kingdom on compost tea (unbiased, NOT sponsored by compost-tea industry): http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/gardeningadvice/11121288/Compost-tea-does-it-really-work.html " What did they find? In a glasshouse study on lavender and choisya, none of the compost teas had any effect on growth or on susceptibility to botrytis (grey mould) or spider mites. Sometimes plants treated with compost tea were taller, sometimes they were shorter, sometimes there was no difference. Sometimes plants treated with compost tea were of higher quality, but often they weren’t, and treated choisya plants at one nursery were significantly worse. In short, the effects of compost teas were “extremely inconsistent”. Other links from U.S.A: http://www.walterreeves.com/landscaping/compost-tea-does-it-work/ From University of New Hampshire: https://extension.unh.edu/articles/Does-compost-tea-really-work From University of Vermont: http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/composttea.html Excerpt from above link: " It’s not clear whether it’s necessary to aerate during compost tea production. Aeration can speed up the production time, but it may also add to equipment cost and complexity. There are claims that aeration helps kill off the organisms that can cause illness. Very few studies have compared aerated and non-aerated compost teas. Some recent research. A 2-year study by the Rodale Institute and Pennsylvania State University evaluated the use of aerated compost tea for disease suppression and crop stimulation in grapes, potatoes, and pumpkins. During year one, approximately 50% suppression of powdery mildew was observed in the compost tea treated grape plots. A slight reduction of gray mold, along with an INCREASE in the level of downy mildew, was observed in the compost tea treated plot during the first year at one of the vineyards. Compost tea failed to suppress powdery mildew on Howden pumpkins in year one, but reduced the number and size of pathogen colonies in year two. Compost tea did not reduce severity of late blight on Superior potatoes when disease was present in year two. " http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/composttea.html *** From Straw: FOR ROSES, just spraying with alkaline tap water alone is enough to suppress mildew, as testified by Roseseek (Kim Rupert) in CA and rosarian Dave Boyd in HMF. For mildew, just plain tap-water spray (alkaline pH over 8) is enough to contain mildew, as rosarian Dave Boyd in a dry climate (only 13" of moisture per year) testified in HMF: http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=3.4748...See Moret-bird
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