Natives: Arctostaphylos densiflorus 'Howard McMinn' or similar larger growing Manzanitas, Ceanothus 'Concha' or C. 'Julia Phelps',(but both are attractive to deer), Heteromeles arbutifolia, Myrica californica, Romneya coulteri, dwarf cultivars of Fremontodendron. Non natives: Arbutus unedo, Feijoa sellowiana, Osmanthus illicifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Escallonia, etc. You could always look up suggestions for hedges in Sunset Western Garden Book as well. Not all of these are going to remain at 8 feet tall, and most will eventually require pruning. Things like Xylosma congestum, Dodonaea viscosa, Acacia longifolia, and Leptospermum scoparium would also be fast growing, dense hedges. If you wanted to be more adventurous, some of the South African Leucadendrons or Leucospermums or Proteas could also work well, and also give some great spring bloom. Aloe arborescens can also be used as a large screen, or Echium fastuosum.

Anything in pots will need much more water than it would planted in-ground. A layer of mulch over the top of the potting soil will help. I would try to feel the edge of a mature leaf of any of the bigger grasses before I planted one in a pot - some of them will give you pretty good cuts, pampas among them. I wouldn't try to use them in pots next to a patio. Another shrub to consider is butterfly bush. They get cut back hard in the late winter/early spring, and aren't evergreen, but they make huge growth over the summer, can be cut to whatever size or shape you want, and will produce flowers for most of the summer, into the fall. They come in all the blue/purple colors, as well as white, pink and yellow, and are scented. And, they shouldn't be expensive - I have friends who have given me a number over the years! If you can make it to one of the plant swaps - coming up soon - you should be able to get some - you don't HAVE to have plants to swap - and you do have your started vine seeds so maybe a few of them are spare? Any of the smaller conifers would do well in pots, although I am not sure how much screening power they would have - they don't grow fast. BUT, they would make great accents for a trellis, planted in big pots at the corners, etc., although they may be pricey. If it were me, I would put up a trellis, either digging the posts into the ground - double check with your land-lord - he might want to keep it after all, and might pay for materials. If not, you can either anchor it with biggish pots half filled with cement (filling the rest with potting soil, and plants, making holes in the side above the cement for drainage), or with brackets that you drive into the ground - I've not used them, only seen ads for them so am not sure whether or how they would work, but as a starting point... You could make a narrowish bed for planting annual vines along the bottom, or just plant the annual vines in pots too, and grow them along the trellis. If you wanted, you could also grow more perennial vines in pots - roses, clematis, etc., etc. and have the trees and shrubs as accents along the edges and corners. This may also run into more money than your budget can stand this year..., but, as perennials, you can take them with you when you move. For less expensive pots -try places like Garden Ridge, etc., and get the cheap foam and/or plastic ones. They will maybe need anchoring, although with potting soil and plants in them, they get heavy fast.

Unfortunately, quick growing and a long lived, quality trouble free tree usually aren't found used together. You're wanting a big thick tree RIGHT NOW. Unless you're willing to spend thousands of dollars to have a 12" caliper or larger tree installed, it will still be 5-8 years or more even for a fast growing tree to develop a canopy large enough to get relief from the sun. We have a lot of Bradford Pears planted up here. They are fast growing and absolutely gorgeous until an insignificant ice storm splits them down center or breaks off major limbs leaving a grossly unbalanced disfigured tree. I would not particularly trust the landscaper nor completely distrust him either. I suggest you get yourself to some quality nursery experts (the Ag Extension office comes to mind) and see what they recommend. The Ag Extension probably has a list of recommended trees and shrubs on their web site. At least give them a call and ask them about what is being recommended to you.

There is extensive experience with CBS construction--probably 96% of residential and 60% of low-rise commercial--here in the rainy sub-tropics of So-Fla. I'm suprised to find this block construction in NJ, done Florida-style, i.e. without insulation, and wonder how good the local builders are at executing it. But, I believe the OP that the issue IS wind-driven rain. The 'S' in CBS stands for Stucco, and that is the ONLY thing that makes an inherently leaky bare-block wall watertight. What jumps out at me is the OP mentions a "light" coating of stucco. There is nothing "light" about a proper stucco job. It is a THREE-coat process, and the end result is over 1/2" thick. Again, the stucco is the primary water blocking factor. Paint/sealers only enter the equation "down the road", after foundation settling has caused hairline cracks. Proper stucco IS the waterproof membrane. However, in a place like NJ with real winters, the other posters are correct that, rain aside, you probably need to clad the exterior with some kind of stiff insulation and, style permitting, fiber-cement planking. If you wish to keep the stucco look, there are EIFS systems that can be stuccoed-over. The EIFS systems typically include features that allow exterior condensation to drain away... make sure the stucco guy does NOT clog these.