evergreen bush near black walnut

18 years ago

Hi,

Anyone know of any evergreens that will do well near a black walnut? I'd prefer broad leaf to conifer/needles, but would be fine with either. I saw holly on one of the lists out there, but not on any others -- anyone have any experience with hollies near BW? I know its a conifer, but how about dwarf alberta spruce?

TIA,

Lisa

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tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱

17 years ago

Sorry to bring this thread back, but since its a new growing season and I have some experience with both conifers and black walnuts I thought I'd chime in. In my city lot, neighbors to the north and south of me have black walnuts. Beautiful trees but they have no place in the urban landscape. On the north end of one tree's dripline I am growing Alberta spruce, Pinus densiflora 'Little Christopher', and Pinus cembra 'Blue Mound' all with no adverse effects. Deeper under the dripline are Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Tortuosa', Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Cripsii'(both are Hinoki false cypresses), Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Boulevard', Chamaecyparis pis. 'Golden Mop' and of course, hemlocks. All of these plants have been there for 6-9 years and appear fine. Also deep in the dripline is a bottlebrush buckeye and on the edge are serviceberries. Did I just get lucky? I dunno, but these plants have worked for me.

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Comments (7)

socal23
18 years ago
Shrubs and trees tolerant of juglone: red cedar; elm; winged euonymus; forsythia; hawthorn; hemlock; hickories; black locust; most maples; oaks; autumn olive; pachysandra; pawpaw; persimmon; wild rose; sycamore; most viburnums; Virginia creeper.

Herbaceous plants tolerant of Juglone: bluebells; Kentucky bluegrass; daffodil; daylily; ferns; fescue; iris; Jack-in-the-pulpit; liriope; narcissus; phlox; poison ivy; Shasta daisy; trillium.

I copied the lists from this website.
jayco
17 years ago
I don't know about hollies, nor about dwarf Alberta spruce, in particular, however, I have Norway and Colorado blue spruces that have not done well in close proximity to black walnuts.
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I, too have issues with the Evil trees - I have neighbors on either side who have 2 full grown trees each! I only have space for one dwarf peach tree because of all the shade (I do have several bushes & small trees like Rose of Sharon). I've been here 18 years now and have learned a thing or two about gardening under these trees since it's either the roots putting out the poison or the dripline killing my plants. It took me years to figure out the rain barrels I was using for the veggie garden was truly wiping out my tomatoes & cucumbers every season by the 4th of July & now I use straw bales to grow them so the poison doesn't touch them. I've found a lot of plants they say will work, don't & a lot that do. It's a matter of trial & error. I remove the plants asap when I notice them succumbing to poison & rinse off the roots thoroughly, then plant in new soil elsewhere (If I can save them in time). Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Ive lost all my Columbine except the wild Michigan ones that are protected- my Mom's friend received permission to take some, & I got her "extras", too! So, I'm helping save a protected species while getting columbines in my gardens! Yay!!! Feel free to contact me to ask any questions. Here's a great link to get you started (tho I have plants growing that here say no & plants that should but don't...): https://www.oakgov.com/msu/Documents/publications/oc0280_black_walnut.pdf
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I plan to prune the centerpiece American persimmon at least a bit, while keeping it's natural shape. It'll also provide shade against the sun. The house faces almost due west with no shade on that side of the house. The persimmon tree will have some room to grow, while the other fruit trees in the front garden need some height restrictions placed on them through the open pruning techniques we're using. I hae considered pruning the persimmon into a semi-vase or partially open shape of some sort, which should keep the mature height somewhere well under 60 ft. Providing I live long enough to keep it pruned up at the proper intervals. LOL. Mulberry Knob, we are also looking for two paw-paws. If you happen to learn of the whereabouts of any small ones,lemme know. Chances are, it'll be better to go ahead and just buy them in order to get the size I want. Those are on the planting diagram for the front garden. They go in the northeast corner of the front garden, closer to the house. A bed is already prepared for them. I'll prune those the same way we're doing the rest of the fruit trees - a combination of open/vase and espalier techniques. Believe it or not, two spice bushes are on our planting diagram for the front garden, for exactly the reasons you've listed. They'll be planted on either side of the walkway on the north side of the garden, next to the long bed. Yeah, I'm after some of the oddball stuff that provides different nutrients while adding to the variety of flavors, colors and textures we'll have in the garden. All of those bushes and trees will also offer some noise mitigation for the day time trafic around here. It's wuiet at night and on the weekends, but during business hours, it can be hard to hear someone standing just a few feet away. That, or I'm gettin' old. One of the two. We still have the driveway bed to play with, too. The only thing we've planned for it are two fig trees. The rest of that bed is only three feet wide, but would work for espaliered trees, bushes, vines and such. The soil in that bed has already been amended enough for those types of plants. Most of the sassafras trees would go along our back fence somewhere. ...mebbe. That, or in the driveway bed. They're really an understory tree, if I remember my youthful woodland wanderings. They weren't really on the list, but then again, we haven't really planned anything for the back yard, either. Not even a bubble diagram. Jusrt, "Something, something' for fence beds and 'something, something' for the center of the yard" is as far as we've gotten. I sent you an email through your profile. Lemme know if you've recieved it, please.
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Maureen, I would recommend contacting your extension agent or local forester for more information on who you might contact for potential removal/purchasing. Trees grown in yard or farmstead settings - unless carefully managed - will likely not attract a great deal of attention from timber buyers due to potential for old nails, wire, etc that may exist under in the tree. I'm in west central WI and had 4 20"+ Black Walnuts we needed to remove last year and we couldn't give away the trees (the trees were farmstead trees/woodland bordering trees). A local timber buyer had zero interest - even in just giving them away - nor did anyone want them for wood burning. We did end up giving some chunks of the logs away to friends though who wanted some for woodworking. While I like Black Walnuts in general, I do not like them in a yard setting as a selection of other plants are not tolerant of the junglone (basically a natural herbicide of the BW) produced from the seeds, roots, and leaves. Good luck!
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Well I'm trying the wax myrtle. Someone has to first right? If I remember (which is a bit of gamble!) I'll try to post back my results. -Helen
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bbinpa
17 years ago
I have seen the American Holly listed as tolerant. It is not readily available at my local nurseries. Mostly English hollies.
The yew, hemlock, arborvite, red cedar are the only other evergreens I can think of that are on the tolerant lists. I am surrounded by about 10 BW trees and can tell you that all of the above do well. As ground covers, english ivy, pachasandra, lirope will tolerate the poisen and some hydrangea (macrophelia) and hydrangea aboracens will tolerate the BW. I also have these. Not all the big leafed hydrangea will grow. I have one that I just potted up because it was dying. It was a lace cap hydrangea.

Good luck.
Barbara aka Hawkeye Belle
artdeco
17 years ago
If you're looking for something smaller, I've got Itea / Sweetspire quite close to a BW. Tho not considered evergreen, it does keep it's leaves into winter (or at least half of it's leaves) and the winter leaves are reddish. And most important - the Iteas haven't died yet!

This fall I'm replacing 2 dead Yews w/ Ilex x meserveae (I thought I was a good distance away from the BW, but I guess I wasn't) and a volunteer at Morton Arboretum said these Hollies should be tolerant.

I'm taking a chance on Cryptomeria and Chamaecyparis 'Filicoides'- couldn't find tolerant info on these, so ...

At our old house Arborvitea seemed very tolerant, as if juglone was a vitamin...

Mountain Laurel should be on intolerant lists. Had one near BW - after 15 years in good acid dirt it maybe grew 1 inch & never a bloom. Transplanted it to mom's yard & it's growing great.

Good Luck!
caryliss
17 years ago
Evergreens that have worked for me near my very mature BWs: hollies (I believe the variety is blue girl/boy), euonymus (at least they would if the deer would stop eating them), oregon grape (growth seems a bit slow, but they are growing), and boxwood. In fact, I think I have decided that boxwood are the almost perfect shrub--evergreen, deer-resistant, BW resistant, lovely shades of green, beautiful growth habit, good size for foundation planting . . . I just wish they grew faster.
drdna
11 years ago
Sorry to bring back this thread, but I was wondering if anyone has knowledge about Pinus contorta and Pinus banksiana tolerance to juglone...

evergreen bush near black walnut

tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱

Comments (7)

socal23

jayco

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