Tnkrer, check the tag for your Roma if you still have it. There are different varieties, some are determinate, some indeterminate. If determinate, don't do the single stemming. It looks like it may be determinate as it is growing quite bushy, though there are some indeterminate varieties called ISI(indeterminate short internode) which means it will still grow vine like, but with less vertical space between the branch nodes. This makes for a shorter, stockier pant. You also don't really want to single stem ISI varieties. You may just want to allow the Roma to have that back quadrant of the planter to itself and let it do it's thing. You could single stem the cherry one and secure it to your arch as it grows creating a tomato arch lol, might look kinda neat. You can probably squeeze a couple more herbs in there if you want. Not sure if you know, but you can actually plant your toms pretty deep when transplanting them. You just prune the branches off the main stem and bury it. It will develop roots along the buried stem and create a really strong root system. I bury my toms to within 4 or 5 inches of the top when I transplant them in to the garden. It takes a week or two for the roots to develop, but once they do, the plants take off. Just don't try this with other plants as most won't develop roots along the buried stem like toms do and would just rot. Good luck, and keep us updated.

According the linked article, late July or August in Northern Indiana. I would move that back about 2 weeks for your climate to early-to-mid July. I didn't notice them in my berry patch until I was removing canes in late winter this year. Cane borers impacted my trailing blackberries the worst and some damage to triple crown. The TC damage was more difficult to notice due less pronounced swelling from the galls since the canes were thicker. I finally noticed the TC damage early summer when the canes, with green fruit, simply wilted and died. I removed and disposed of the infected canes and treated the trailing blackberries with a systemic pesticide. Here is a link that might be useful: Red-necked Cane Borer in Blackberries

I have been pruning my pines and spruces for about 22 years, using as much as 36 foot of bolt together poles. If you are pruning hardwood trees, your problems can be a bit different--I have done just a little pruning of hardwood trees. Anyway, here is the main problem I have had with the saw getting pinched--and believe me, when I have more than 20 feet of poles up a tree, this can be a real headache. But my saw gets pinched usually only when the branch I cut begins to drop down when the cut is almost complete, and then rests against another branch, either on the same tree or an adjacent tree. When this happens I can usually work it free, but it can take a long time. But I do have two sets of poles, so unless I am very, very high, I can get the other set of poles and cut the stuck one free. The best way for me in my pines and spruces to avoid this, when I can anticipate that the branch I am cutting will rest against another one as it drops down, is to make a first cut on the branch at least three feet from the trunk--or far enough so that the branch from where I cut to the trunk is flexible. Then if it gets stuck I can shake the thing to get it loose. Also, of course, when the branch drops down when the cut is almost complete, it will fall by having the last bit of wood and bark rip loose from a foot or more of the branch. But since this is just on a part of the branch that will be cut off anyway, that's OK. And this way the saw doesn't get stuck. Another technique that works in some situations is to make about half the cut from one side. Then, before the branch begins to drop down, switch to the other side, making sure I get the saw into the same cut, and then work from that side. This way the cut is balanced on both sides when the branch begins to drop down. The pinching happens more often then the cut is all from one side--remember you are reaching high up from the ground, so you are not really cutting the branch from the top. If the cut is all from one side, then it is more likely to pinch as the branch begins to drop down. I say the problem can be a bit different with hardwood trees. This is because not only do the branches tend to be larger, but also because they are less likely to be regular in form like pine and spruce branches. I guess the best advice with larger less regularly shaped or balanced branches is to cut part from one side and part from the other. And, if possible, make the first cut as far away from the trunk as necessary to have some flexibility so if you do get stuck it will be easier to work it loose. Maybe in some situations you can cut the ends of the branch off with two or more preliminary cuts before atttempting to cut the main branch at the trunk. Also, if you can reach up with something to pull the branch from side to side, this can help you get your saw loose. Well, have fun--if you are cutting a lot of branches, you will eventually learn the best techniques. It took me a while, but now I seldom get into trouble. Another problem I have had is having the branch as it falls slide down the pole and come right at me. I got hit on the head by a rather large branch a few years ago--a glancing blow, luckily, but blood gushed all over me. For a moment I thought I was dead. I learned how, mostly, to avoid that also, but if it happens, just drop the pole and run--it the poles are damaged, so what! --Spruce

Just a guess but if you did have to much lighting on them for to long wouldn't the leaves show some signs of burning via discoloring or other signs of stress ? Under the "normal/natural" rules what a plant need to flower are right lighting (for AV's case it would include time and itensity) right watering right air tempature ( with right watering makes for ideal humidity conditions for flowering as well) right fertilizing amounts (and type) Leaves healthy or not can always be removed. In your case to it could help expose the hard to see or breaking out flowerings (thats just my thinking thou maybe you'll get a second opinion befor doing that) With all of the factors to concider, I think if your AVS where slot machines in Vegas you hit the mother load jackpot of jackpots. Should you make changes to what you already are doing and what sounds to me as your doing right...... well, If it isn't broke don't fix it.