The center is fine, you can remove the spent foliage. This would be considered very common among conifers. The red tips may or not refoliate from that point; probably not.

Wait and allow your plant to grow into summer and if necessary, later, remove anymore spent foliage as needed.

Fertilizing conifers is not recommended. So if you're growing a lot of flowers, yet, you may want to foliar feed those only.

Dax

interior browning is normal ... exacerbated by transplant ... all conifers shed their needles in 1 to 3 years ... and as they grow.. the interior ones become the oldest ... and therefore are shed ... the interruption to the root system during planting ... and the fact that they are new to you.. can make the effect startling... all you have to worry about.. is when the whole plant turns brown ...

and interior browning is increased by a hard winter.. again.. especially after transplant ... some winter protection from sun and wind might helps these specific plant.. for a couple years ....

usually we do not amend planting holes on trees or conifers ... but if you have that famous OH clay... and incorporated it properly.. it should be all set ...

IMHO .. i believe that conifers NEVER need fertilizer.. unless a soil test shows something is lacking in your soil ...

most conifers prefer a good drink.. and then be allowed to nearly dry in between waterings.. though some can take swampy feet ... you would be far better off .. to use you finger to test dampness .. and NOT water these.. every time you might water the annuals and perennials ... and a proper mulch will also extend the period between waterings ...

on my sand with very high drainage.. and a lot of mulch.. my older conifers are free range after two years ... the first two years ... they MIGHT get watered once a month.. with a double check in august ... and a very good drink late in fall ... or two.. depending on what ma nature provides .... going into winter dessicated from a long summer can be the worst problem ....

many.. if not all conifers have a summer color pattern .. and a winter coloration ... if you look close enough ... brown tissue is usually dead... as is black ... but a gold or red tip on cham's MIGHT just be normal.. hard to guess without a picture ...

once you get past the transplant issues.. your chams ought to be rather bullet proof ... try not to love them to death ...

good luck

ken

PS: there are some great nurseries in OH.. what city are you near???

I'm finally having a soil test performed, Ken. What may or not be chloratic symptoms could be more than pelleted sulphur added to my clay loam. I also need to check for rotting of the roots (firs mainly).

Damn clay!

Dax

Thank you all. I will just let these babies grow and am glad to hear they are low maintenance-that was the plan(getting old). I had taxus before, and never did anything with them but give them a trim twice a year. Am not sure if I will like this brown foliage characteristic though. Ken, I'm near Columbus.

then check out the link below ....

some truly exotic stuff ... though a bit pricey ....

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

The reddish tips can be a sign of vigorous new growth in the sun, similiar to Thuyas.
Be aware that Dwarf Gold Hinokis can get relatively large.
Here's one in my garden and not the tallest either.
{{gwi:692308}}
A normal gold Hinoki is located just above the red leaved Maple.