Small story... I had a cactus and it started to get dry just right above the soil surface, this area did not increase in size. The "neck" became too thin to keep whole cactus body, so one windy day that place broke off and cactus fell down. I thought it is done, but for some reasons I did not get rid of it, the cactus kept laying for few weeks and one day I've noticed the wound has dried and small roots started to appear. What I'm going to tell is to cut the top straightest part of your cactus and let it grow new roots. Would be great to get advice from an expert as for this trick. P.S. My cactus is doing well since that case, blooms every year... it was 3 years ago or so. This post was edited by ibilous on Sat, Aug 2, 14 at 6:34

Here it is almost May and I've just noticed your post. We were all beginners once; I lost about 30% of my first plantings, and continue to loose one thing or another from year to year. In most instances it was over-watering in summer, and ill-timed watering in winter. In the end, I developed a policy that, after a killing freeze, I would replace the dead plants with duplicates of whatever survived. This moved me away from a one-of-each look, to a more coherent look; unplanned, but happy results. And fewer and fewer specialty plants that I need to cover each winter. When you put on frost cloths, raise them with long stakes so they don't touch the plant. If they touch, you will get a frozen spot on the plant at any point of contact. Use clothespins to anchor the cloths to the stakes, top and bottom. With new plantings of cacti and succulents (May is the season for planting these), be sure to orient the plant so whatever side was facing south is still facing south in its final position. This will minimize sun damage. Yes, cacti sunburn. Then drape them in cheesecloth their first season, at least into the middle of monsoons, preferably all the way through to late September. This will help them adapt to their new compass orientation. While many of the cacti sold locally are frost hardy, adding cups on frosty night to the growing tips of post-like forms is a good idea. Most succulents sold locally, are specimens from milder climates, should be covered or brought into a porch (and still covered) or indoors when temperatures drop below 33. In a freeze, the water in the cells expands -- just like ice cubes in an icecube tray -- and ruptures the cells, causing the plant to turn to mush when it thaws. For these tender plants, I now limit myself to small ones I keep in pots, one I can load into a couple of beer flats and whisk into the laundry room on frosty nights. But they do like to be put outdoors again when the temperature gets back up to 40. Not always convenient for me when there are a succession of frosty nights. By now you may have heard that some parts of town are colder than others. Quite true. Cold air sinks into the valley, and it also flows to lower places such as hollows or along washes. I live next to a wash, and get more frost on that side of the garden than twenty-five feet away on the other side of the garden. Also, tiny differences in elevations can sometimes make a difference. I inherited a rock garden (well, all rocks, no plants, when I bought the house), and find that a difference in elevation of two to three feet from front to back makes a difference between frost and no frost. Also, south or west facing walls that are such brutal situations for plants in summer, can release heat through much of a winter night and make a slight "warm" patch on a night when a difference of one or two degrees makes all the difference. Consider the losses part of the learning experience, and have a great time developing your desert garden. Good luck enduring the coming summer and next winter.

lgteacher, yours is an Opuntia (or Cylindropuntia). It should be ok. Just keep it moist. They're pretty quick growers and can be pretty tough little guys. Just don't let it dry out too much or for too long. kittikity, Can't really tell what yours are yet, but I would put them in some cactus soil as well. I don't usually use plain commercially sold "Cactus Mix" because if you look at lgteachers picture, you can see lots of organic matter, like small wood chips or twigs. Normally this is not good, but will help you keep your seedlings moist. Keep them moist. Not wet but moist. At this stage of life, they prefer high humidity. Many people grow their seedlings in plastic bags to keep them moist. I usually keep my larger seedlings (out of the baggie) in a large "tupperware" type container with the lid either partially or completely off, to maintain more humidity than just a pot sitting on a shelf. If they dry out too much and for too long, you will lose them :( I do have a friend that will put any small seedlings he receives or finds BACK into plastic bags. So,you could try that too. IF you happen to find algae growing on the top, put a fine layer of sand over it. Would love to hear your progress and see how they all develop (both of you)

I stole this plant yesterday, so I haven't had time to do anything with it, except a good soaking. The neighbor lady was moved to a nursing home. I asked her son if I could help myself to her collection, and he was more than happy that someone could get rid of the mess in her backyard. I took 14 plants the first time I went over, and I took a last peek yesterday to make sure I didn't miss anything before the house got a new owner. Took three more plants, haha. So I can understand that this might be a beautiful plants because it's a mature plant and has character. But I think I am growing plants in hope to one day exhibit them and win the big prizes :) I am years away, but one has to start somewhere. I assume this cactus is never going to win anything. My whole front yard is full of succulents and cacti. Maybe I plant it there. Perhaps I plant the pups in a pot. Thank you both for your input and help, Robin