I have a trovita orange tree that I got in 2003. It is potted and inside in the winter, outside in the summer. It has gotten blossoms occasionally in the past, but never developed fruit. When it is inside it has not had its own light in the past several years. Right now it has a ton of buds and it would be neat if some of them developed fruit. Has it not developed fruit in the past simply because of lack of light and warmth? If I build a small greenhouse for it and get it a light show it grow fruit? Is there anything I should do now to help all those buds grow into fruit?

Hi Dan, welcome to the Valley of the Sun. If you haven't been here during the summer, you'll soon learn why it's called that :) I'd move that plant into a 1 gal container. Something like these (You can probably find them cheaper than that, I just linked the first one I found) I have some theories, but I'm not sure of why this helps so much. I find if you fit a plant into a container close to the size of it's roots, it does so much better. This means you have to re-pot most plants at least once a year, but it keeps them so much healthier. Once they are past the 7 gallon point, you can put them into whatever type of container and they do fine. Then, I'd fill it with heavier soil, citrus love heavy soil (that means the soil has less air space like clay soil does, but I don't recommend using clay in a container). It's pretty much the opposite of what it looks like that plant is in now. Slightly sandy soil is best. I find it's best to make my own mix of soil rather than try to find the perfect soil from a store. I would add very little perlite to the mix (if any at all). Also, the soil needs to be compressed down and not full of air pockets, roots like oxygen but not air pockets. I think this is the most important: get an automatic watering system if you really want to grow things through the summer in containers here. In the summer, they should be watered daily with just a little water (I use 1/2 gph emitters for 8-10 mins every morning for my 1 gal plants). If you miss a few days of watering (depending on the age/type of plant), the plants will most likely deteriorate to the point of no return. Lastly, I'd make sure it gets around 6 hours of direct sunlight each day, but if you can, try get it some shade between 11AM and 2PM after April since it's young and in a small container. It'll be best if it gets this type of sun for it's first 2-3 years of life. BTW, Everyone will tell you that you shouldn't waste your time growing a citrus from seed because it probably won't grow true to its parent, but I say meh to that. It's fun growing from seed and this is how all the varieties came to be. They were a seed once from either some genetic experiment or nature's crazy mutant child.

Unless you're in some weird microclimate, you can just grow yours in the ground. 9a is a citrus appropriate zone. If you have a cold snap, just put some Christmas lights on it or a sheet.

I sure wouldn't give it any supplements since you may over do it on one end and cause a problem in another. That Foliage Pro had plenty of iron and god forbid once your tree starts to take that nutrient up with the iron in the ground already.. Why don't we try and figure out what the source of your issue is? How have the temps been? Where do you live? That is for starters... Do you or have you ever used vinegar or had your tap water tested? What kind of mix do you use? Homemade? Bagged? Just a bit of info for you about using too much Iron which your fertilizer has plenty of. Something is preventing your tree from taking it up... Iron is considered a micro-nutrient because only ...small.... amounts are required to aid in normal plant growth. It plays an important role in respiration, photosynthesis and the production of healthy green leaves. Plants can suffer iron deficiency with symptoms of chlorosis and stunted growth, but plants can also take in too much iron, especially under certain growing conditions. Iron and Plants Iron is mainly involved in the process of plant photosynthesis. The micronutrient's availability to plant roots depends on the pH level of the soil with iron more readily available in soil with a low pH. Iron and manganese both play an important role in plant growth and development, but often compete for absorption, as an abundance of one of these micronutrients makes the other less available to plant roots. Fertilizers should contain an equal ratio of manganese and iron so both are readily available to plants. This is what your Foliage Pro already does for you. Iron Toxicity Iron toxicity is not common, but some plants do secrete acids from the roots, which lowers soil pH. These plants can take up too much iron, leading to toxicity. The symptoms of iron toxicity include bronzing and stippling of leaves. The leaf discoloration is caused by the plant creating enzymes to control free radicals that are present in high iron levels. Some plants that are prone to iron toxicity include tomatoes, basil, phlox and impatiens. Iron and Manganese High iron levels often cause manganese deficiency in a plant first, because of the two micronutrients' competitive behavior. Manganese deficiency exhibits similar symptoms as iron deficiency, such as yellowing of leaves, except manganese deficiency affects both young and old foliage, while iron deficiency affects only young foliage. Iron and manganese toxicity have similar symptoms in plants as well. Causes of Iron Toxicity and Prevention Iron toxicity also can occur when chelated iron is added to soil. Chelates help increase nutrient uptake and solubility of metal micronutrients, which in turn makes over-absorption possible. To avoid iron toxicity, check pH balance and maintain a pH level of 5.8 or higher when growing plants prone to iron toxicity; use a fertilizer with a balanced ratio of manganese and iron; and use iron chelate, like Foliage Pro. So as you can see, it's not just the YOUNG foliage with issues but the whole plant. Then too, you can over due it on the Iron side causing worst issues..