Bearss Lime Tree Flourishing But Not Fruiting

12 years ago

I received a Bearss lime tree for Father's Day and moved it from its five gallon container into a 20 gallon container on the same day. The tree came with one small lime on it, which I just harvested last week after it finally reached size.

In the last2.5 months, the tree has doubled in size and has kept healthy, green leaves across the whole plant. I've have fertilized every Sunday with Foliage Pro (1tsp) and white vinegar (1tsp). While the tree is growing nicely, it has never flowered or produced another lime.

Should I not have expected anything in its first transplant year, or is there something else I should be doing differently?

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Comments (3)

johnmerr
12 years ago
Sounds like you are doing the right things. Normally this variety flowers in the Spring; so have a little patience and expect a modest crop next year.
dancinglemons
12 years ago
Hello,

I am far from an expert on citrus but I am the owner of a Bearass Lime. I purchased my tree in September or October several years ago - from a local Nursery and it was from the Monrovia folks. I got no flowers for about 6-7 months if memory serves. I read somewhere on the internet that some citrus can be forced to bloom if they are dry. The tree was inside at this time so I stopped watering it completely. I watched it carefully just to be sure that I did not kill the tree. It took about a month but the tree finally bloomed prolifically. I do not know if the blooms were because of the lack of water or if it was just the time of year for this tree to bloom. In the years since the tree blooms profusely in spring (April/May) and then blooms all summer long when it is outside. I have the tree in about 15+/- gallon pot. Tree lives outside from April until late October early November in Central Virginia. I do not bring the tree inside for mild frost but if it is expected to get below 35 degrees (yes, 35!) then I bring it in. I get about 20+/- limes each year and another 20+/- that do not grow to size which I use for cooking (zest).

Hope this helps a bit. Johnmerr is correct about this variety flowering in Spring - but somehow I think because of my location (Virginia) and the tree being in a container - it acts a bit differently.

DL
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Nimzo, I have heard of people successfully cleft-grafting citrus. (I think that you would almost certainly have to wrap your scions in parafilm -- or whatever -- to succeed, though.) But I would really suggest that you try your hand at t-budding. It is not hard, and there are plenty of pictorial tutorials on the internet. In the time it takes to do one cleft-graft it is possible to accomplish several t-buds, increasing your odds of getting a viable "take". (Also, even a small stick of budwood/scionwood can usually yield quite a few usable buds.) But, as I said, cleft-grafting can work, if you prefer that technique. It's hard to know exactly what is going on with your tree without seeing it in person, but it does sound like the rootstock has taken over part of the plant. As others have pointed out, the "Bearrs" lime should be seedless (or nearly so), so the non-trifoliate part of your plant sounds like it was somehow mislabeled. The plant should make a great rootstock, though!
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Goyo, I would consider contacting Four Winds Growers and see about their Bearrs Lime trees. I am sure they use current and clean budwood from the CCPP that doesn't carry wood pocket, you can ask this question, directly. They are very nice folks. We have Bearss lime trees here in my neighborhood (old Bearss orchard) that are quite old and doing fine. Not all Bearss wil succumb to wood pocket. All citrus have their issues, and most garden center retailers wouldn't normally know this. My Bearss lime is about 3 years old and just fine, my other one is only about a year old, so too young to comment. Both bought from reputable growers that use clean CCPP budwood. Patty S.
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If your tree does not have a disease,and if you are following the proper fertilizer regiment for your trees age (3 fertilizer applications a year), then to help the tree to flower, it is a common commercial practice to apply a 1 percent urea or a 1 percent potassium nitrate solution as a foliar spray to the tree's foliage approximately 1-2 months prior to your tree's expected bloom date. This procedure will help your tree's production.
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For me in NorCal on well drained clay (hillside), a good routine is a spritz every other day (in the warming spring/ hot summer). As the trees mature and if a heavy mulch is applied (just did that), i believe I can push it to every three days and perhaps 4 next year. When i tried the every three day routine when the trees were in their first two years... i got the damage you are experiencing. Don't let that root ball dry out! Oh, and for fertilizer - - ok to feed, just go the liquid / light / frequent route rather than the solid. If you put down the solid fertilizer, water, and then forget to keep it all moist, the roots will burn. With liquid food you avoid that risk - especially in the hot months. BTW: It may also matter what is on the other side of the wall. If your neighbor - or you - have other mature trees, the roots may be all around your new planting and sucking it dry. - George
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johnmerr
12 years ago
The bloom time and maturity time both vary for most citrus depends on your latitude, altitude, microclimate, and rootstock. Every time I plant Meyer lemons on a new piece of land, I have to explain to my new associate grower that, even though you think I am an expert, I cannot tell you exactly when your trees will bloom or harvest.
I don't think being in the ground or in a container makes any difference except that in the container, if you choose, you can certainly affect the microclimate.

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Bearss Lime Tree Flourishing But Not Fruiting

Comments (3)

johnmerr

dancinglemons

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