You might try the fern forum. This forum is for plants native to North America. You could also try the name that plant forum and that forum accepts small attachments.

There are many different species of tree fern that come from all sorts of different habitats. Do you have an ID for yours? Some tree ferns drop their fronds soon after they dry off. Some retain the dead fronds for quite a while. As long as there's plenty of good fronds in the crown of the plant it does no harm to cut off the ones that are dying and looking bad. As long as they have plenty of water some tree ferns can cope with full sun. But that's not all species. If you don't know the ID then stick with keeping it out of direct sunlight, or in filtered sun at most. Remember that indoors the air get's quite dry so the plant will appreciate a bit of misting.

Well spores don't normally (or maybe ever) grow on the tops of leaves but they can look like brown dust.

Two books that give good information for Texas peaches are Texas Peach Tree Handbook by Jim Kamas and Growing Fruits and Nuts in the South by William Adams and Thomas Leroy. The pin holes in the leaves are caused by Bacterial Spot. It is controlled in the dormant season by using Copper hydroxide. I use it with dormant oil (oil to kill scale) in late winter before bud break. Too late to use it this year. The copper will kill the leaves. Another main problem you will have is Brown Rot (use captan or Monterey Fungi-fighter. The Monterey seems to work better. Apply before a rain and use according to label until harvest. I try to stop using it 2 to 4 weeks before harvest. Also, remove any mummified fruit and remove from property. The mummified fruit will spread the fungi to other fruit. Worms are another problem. Look up Plum Curculio. They make a distinctive mark ( a slit with a small spot). If you see this on a piece of fruit remove it immediately and spray with a pesticide. I use triazicide. You also have bacteria canker and borers to worry about. You manage canker by not pruning after June and doing most of the pruning just before or at bud break. The borers are control by spraying in the window that they appear, for me in Beaumont it is in late June. I have not sprayed for borers but will if I ever have a problem. Agrilife Extension in your county will have good information. Thinning advice, remove any twins and fruit that is oozing. Thin to about 4 to 6 inch spacing. Remember that the branch must support the full size fruit. If you have a chose between a peach on the end or one a couple of inch closer to the middle I would thin the one on the end. The fruit on the outside will usually be better quality that ones on the inside. Try to open up the middle of the trees so the leaves and fruit will dry quicker. It is easier than it sounds and some people ignore all of the above advice and still produce fruit. I can grow peaches in SE Texas and it is much tougher to grow them here than where you are.