The most efficient pathway into the plant (in 99% of plants you're likely to be growing) is via the root system. As Pan noted, foliar feeding is rather inefficient and results uninspiring. If you DO see good results from foliar feeding, it's reason enough to suspect there is something very wrong with your more traditional method of fertilizing that utilizes roots as the primary pathway into the plant. Al

Math Error in First Post added Correction. The TDS in Foliage Pro Solution must be much higher than approximated. Edit: Math Error 1tsp= 4.94 ml 4.94grams at sp=1 1US Gal = 3.785411784 liters (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 235ppm Error Should be (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 58.7ppm at conversion factors of 500 ppm/mS or 640 ppm/mS 58.7ppm/500= 117uS or 58.7ppm/640= 91.7uS Too Low to be accurate "Edit: Math Error 1tsp= 4.94 ml 4.94grams at sp=1 1US Gal = 3.785411784 liters (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 235ppm Should be (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 58.7ppm at conversion factors of 500 ppm/ms or 640 ppm/ms 58.7ppm/500= 117uS or 58.7ppm/640= 91.7uS Too Low to be accurate "Not sure I'd have been comfortable with the assumptions behind the "total" ppm approximation" You were Correct on that Maybe others that use Foliage Pro can validate the EC readings with other meters. Even at 320 grams/Liter 1/4 tsp/Gal gives only about 105ppm total concentration. This is about 164 uS at 640 factor.

I'm new here so please be patient ;) Is this a good fertilizer for Adeniums? I have 4 I purchased a few months ago on clearance simply because I thought the "trunk" was unique. I had never heard of these before and for $3 each I figured what the heck. They had very few leafs and some even had yellow leafs. I am excited to say they have recovered and all have bloomed. I have had some leafs turning yellow and falling off on each plant but 1 has me really worried because I noticed this morning that a lot of the leafs are turning yellow. I have not repotted these yet basically due to fear of killing them. I purchased Miracle Gro Cactus potting mix which I use for my succulents and cactus but I add a little sand (toy box type), perilite and a small amount of regular potting soil. Due to my aloe nearly dying with just the Cactus potting mix. I have just received my purchase of Azomite Rock Dust to use on all of my plants. But finding good fertilizer especially equal numbered 20-20-20, 14-14-14... which I read is what I need for my adeniums is not possible locally so I am placing an order from Amazon today if I get a response here in time! Also any advice on soil would be much appreciated so I can add what I need (if Amazon has it). This year I decided to test my green thumb due to some extra time. All in containers. So if I ask stupid questions it is simply because I am learning about growing ANY and All plants...

For hydrophobic soil like yours, I'd start by immersing the entire pot in a bucket of room temperature water until bubbles stop appearing and it sits at the bottom of the bucket without being held there. It could take up to an hour for the pot to get saturated. You might want to de-pot the plant first to see if there are gaps in the soil that let water flow past the soil instead of through it. If there are, try to fill them, or at least gently loosen the roots and soil around the gaps, before you put it back in the pot. Here's what I do when one of my pots with peaty soil doesn't want to absorb water: I concentrate on watering verrrrry sloooooowly, moving a very thin stream of water over the entire surface of the soil until water starts to exit the pot. I wait for at least half an hour for the moisture to wick around, then repeat the process. Sometimes I'll repeat it again until the weight of the pot convinces me it's absorbed as much as it can, then let it drain. Afterward be sure and tilt the pot 45 degrees for 15-20 minutes. If the holes are around the rim you'll see excess perched water draining out while it's tilted; if there's just one hole in the middle, the excess water will drain it when you set it upright again. Hopefully Robin will come back with that link, but Al the Wise disagrees with the idea that you should completely stop fertilizing in the winter, Even if plants aren't really growing much, and recommends reducing the FP concentration to one teaspoon/gallon/week for the winter months. Some have said to leave it there overnight, but I'd base the fertilizing plan as much on growth as the season. Hopefully Robin will come back with that link, but Al disagrees with the idea that you should completely stop fertilizing in the winter, even if plants aren't really growing much. He recommends reducing the FP concentration to one teaspoon/gallon/week for the winter months, and he has so much experience with fertilizing that I believe him. My plants slow down but don't stop growing in the winter since I started giving them supplemental light, and their growth is directly related to the intensity and amount of light they get. The ficus benjaminas are almost comically sensitive to light, pushing new leaves and backbudding like mad within a few days of being moved into outdoor sunlight on the porch, slowing new growth to spring levels almost the minute I move them back indoors, and even responding to, say, going from 12 hours of artificial light to 9 hours. Dave uses supplemental light too, which probably explains why he and I are so liberal with our fertilizer use. I'll admit I sorta forgot to check Al's recommendations this summer and gave my plants two tablespoons/gallon with every watering, which was twice a week for some of them. They seemed to love it, though it was probably the fact that I flush every time I water that let me get away with it. I went to 1 tablespoon/gallon/week when they came inside and then got to ask Al about it, and will go back to 1 tsp/gallon/week in the winter--unless the additional lights I plan to install stimulate much more growth than they produced last winter. I hope something in there helps.