Thanks mes111, the linked article made the process very easy to understand. I had tried to be as organic as possible and used sulfur this year but I will be using Immunox next spring. From what I have read, ( and what I experienced last year on my trees,) older trees can be devastated by CAR. Unlike younger trees, older trees don't grow many new leaves after spring and the danger of CAR infection is past, and so, are not able to store up engergy through the leaves for the next year. Last year, all the leaves were covered with CAR and most dropped by late summer. Looks like the same will happen this year. Is there anything I can do to help the trees compensate for the damage done to their leaves? Should I try to remove any apples that are left on the tree? Would doing any pruning and water sprouts removal encourage some new leaf growth? Should I fertilize?

It will be just fine with seven fruits. Make sure the soil is neutral,not acidic,if acidic add limestone powder or granulated,in order to neutralize soil,to PH 7. Then the fig tree will love you and produce the sweetest fruit known to mankind. Happy gardening!

"It should be unnecessary to point out that a weeping cherry is not technically a "fruit tree" despite the common name :-)" Well, yes, because it doesn't produce edible fruit. I should've been more specific. Since it is a prunus (likely a cultivar of prunus x subhirtella) it is a cherry/stone fruit, meaning it is in the rosaceae family. Most plants in the rosaceae family are disease and pest-prone (some more than others). This family includes fruit trees (even ornamentals) including cherries (prunus), plums, peaches, pears (pyrus), apples (malus), roses (rosa), and I believe there are a number of other ornamental and fruiting plants that I did not list. In other words, do not plant another rosaceae tree in place of this one, because there could be pathogens in the soil, and some left in the area from plant debris (leaves, twigs, etc.).

Yes, I did say that if you were paying attention, but I'm rethinking that. And it's not going to be causing that kind of a problem in the specified ten days. But now we have the magic rotating argument where it's the weather, then the watering when the weather is proven to be absolutely not the issue, and so on. Also, review that the OP also amended the soil. And even dried it out for a "day or two." So consequently, even that level of watering wasn't consistent. One of my sprayers only puts out 0.17" an hour. For the weather you had, that is not unreasonable. Fan sprinklers are really inefficient things as well. And if that's 40 minutes total, moving the sprinkler around, it's not all that much grand total across the property, now that I think about it... OP, can you be much more specific on how you watered and with what? Did each section see 40 minutes of water? What type of sprinkler did you use? Have you ever measured the output using a tuna can or other straight-sided can or glass? Many sprinklers put out a LOT less water than one might, actually, think. My watering system requires 3-4 hours (depending on where you are) to output 1" of water. Your weather actually was kind of stinking hot there for a while. Sod's usually OK with that...if it really does have enough water. If not, that could be an issue. And I might have miscalled that pretty badly initially.