i've been reading about it on hardytropicals.co.uk in aroid forum. basically if you put the pot on a heat mat and bag it to incerease humidity - it'll wake up. soil should be at 70F minimum. 70F-90F is fine. i am looking into using regular heating pad for now to wake up the bulbils that i harvested. will be also potting my alocasia polly tubers too soon. but usually people use heating 'propagation' mats.

I've always thought of dormancy as something plants can do, more so than something they need to do. It is more of a skill of survival through the cyclical weather patterns of the seasons--evolution and genetic adaptation. It is a rather insular idea that cold is the only condition that promotes dormancy in plants. In many places in the world dormancy is promoted by lack of water--a dry season if you will. Some of our heat loving roses likes teas and chinas hail from places like that. I strongly suspect the disaster teas roses are in my 7a garden where they cannot survive through to spring--even though conventional wisdom says it should be warm enough--has more to do with the fact we have significant moisture in the late winter and early spring. It is the moisture that forces them out of dormancy, but then it is still too cold for growing, un-dormant plants to not to be mortally damaged. We take plants that have evolved under certain weather patterns and then expect them to thrive someplace with a different cycling of conditions all while assuming that dormancy triggers are the same. They aren't. All that to say, I don't think I would try to force dormancy based on temperature/cold without at least trying to understand the potential genetics of that particular rose.

They do not go dormant. They're hardy evergreen biennials. They'll flower next year, set seed and die. The seeds will germinate, the seedlings will overwinter and you'll never be without forget me nots again.

Even though they frequently shed some or all foliage in winter, it's classified as an evergreen vine and as such is not capable of a true predictive dormancy; however, if you keep it in a cool low-light setting and ensure it stays on the quite but not completely dry side, it will remain quiescent (quiet/resting ...... but still not dormant) for winter's duration. In all honesty, I have serious doubts it would survive an over-wintering in a Toronto garage. If that is you're only recourse, you could try placing it on the garage floor and covering it with an over-turned cardboard box. This arrangement serves to trap geo-thermal heat from the garage floor and adds at least 1 zone of hardiness to what you can over-winter. I have a couple as bonsai and keep them under lights in a temperature/humidity controlled grow area, one a dwarf (pixie?) that loses hardly any foliage, the other a species plant that can be counted on to be bare by the spring equinox, which is about when I can count on it waking up again to start pushing new growth. Al