It sounds more and more like prometon damage. Did you, or a neighbor, or the previous homeowner use a really strong "weed killer" anywhere within 30 ft. of the trees in the last 3-5 years? Prometon is found in a variety of product--marketed as "weed killers"--which are actually soil sterilants. These products include Ortho Triox, Green Light Compleet, Pramitol, and the stuff someone's cousin brought home in a milk jug from the warehouse he worked at, saying "We use this on the parking lot, and it really works!" It kills most of the things it touches the roots of, lasts for years, and spreads through the soil with heavy rain or heavy watering. Symptoms inlude severe chlorosis, with brown edges spreading inward between the veins, and yellowing, stunting, and "brooming" of new growth. Citrus are among the most easily affected by low concentrations, along with hibiscus and some of the more tropical palms--such as queen palm or pygmy date. Other plants may be affected, but more slowly, and less severely. Bermudagrass may not be affected at all. If this is the problem, treatment involves applying humates, either in solid form, or as liquid humic acid. They should be spread over the entire root area: from the trunk out to 3-6 ft out from the dripline. That may involve getting permission from your neighbor to apply it on the other side of that wall, too. Follow the application with watering to 3 ft. deep in the soil over the entire area. New growth should gradually return to normal over the next 2-6 weeks. New applications may need to be made twice a year, until the source of contamination is exhausted. Meanwhile, follow a normal fertilizer regimen. Hope this helps! Kevin : )

FWIW - how well a soil drains has little to do with the fact that water flows through the soil and out the drain holes. The key is how much water the soil retains, and in particular, how tall the layer of soggy soil at the bottom of the container is. It's not uncommon for commercially prepared soils based on peat or other fine composted products to support 6" or more of perched water. This means that after saturating the soil, up to 6" of it could be completely saturated, and would remain that way until it evaporates or it's used by the plant. Unfortunately, a lot of water in the soil inhibits water uptake AND root function, often causing symptoms exactly like those in the picture you posted. I'll leave you a link that emphasizes the importance of a soil's structure and it's ability to hold enough air to keep the root system happy to your ability to consistently bring along healthy plant material. A healthy plant isn't possible unless you can keep the root system happy. Al Here is a link that might be useful: More about soils if you click me .....

Okay, all excellent advice from both cayden and always from Jean. Additional suggestions: You need to drop crotch prune your tree, as it's getting just too tall. Lemons are notorious for sending up these vigorous water sprouts, so take the tree down in height using drop crotch pruning. If you don't know how to do this, see if you can find a GOOD tree pruning specialist who knows how to do this correctly. Your tree's root system is going to be challenged due to all that concrete, so keep the size of your tree down. Plus, it makes it safer to pick your fruit. Next, you must minimize the pool splash. That chlorinated water is bad news for the roots. Get to a good quality garden center and buy a high quality citrus fertilizer (I would suggest GroMore Citrus & Avocado Food) and apply once a month until you see your tree starting to respond with new flush. Don't be surprised if you see the older leaves drop, that's fine, just look for new flush. Once you see new flush, you'll be able to cut back to fertilizing once every other month. Use at least the amount recommended for the size of your tree. Lemons are heavier feeders than other citrus due to their prolific fruiting tendencies. Treat for ants to keep out aphids. You can remove aphids if you see them in the spring on the tender new growth by hosing the tree off with a hard blast of water. We talk about CLM constantly on this list, so just search for CLM or Citrus Leafminer on this forum. I think I've posted about 6 times in the last week, so not worth re-posting the same info :-) Besides, too late to treat from CLM at this time, you're seeing the aftermath and not an active infestation. And frankly, I don't even treat my mature trees, and it really is more cosmetic with an older tree. Don't worry about whiteflies, I've never seen them bother citrus. Lastly, I'd get 2 to 4 bags of high quality compost, and mulch your poor tree, then top with some back to help retain moisture. Your tree needs nutrients. Composting every season will help with any soil pH issues, which really isn't an issue here for us in S. California. Our trees do just fine without an pH adjustments, as our soil pH isn't that high. However, that being said, your soil pH can get higher next to the foundation of your house, from lime leaching out from the concrete. I also see some snail damage, so put down some Sluggo around the base of the tree (safe for kids and pets, fatal for snails and slugs.) And, the fruit split is due to uneven watering during our really, really hot summer and fall.. Just pull off the split fruit, it will attract insects and infection. Patty S

Frank 2007, have you checked the age of the tree? For instance, trees that are grown from seed can take up to 5 years or more to fruit. Others that were airlayered may or may not fruit the first few years (I have one lemon that was airlayered that has fruited, one that has not fruited; both are a year old and the fruited one is only about a foot tall). Some trees that are grafted will produce none to a few fruits the first year and can take up to 5 years for a good crop. Regarding fertilizer: I have a very challenging soil which is alkaline. Citrus require an acidic soil. I can always tell when I need to put another application of citrus fertilizer when I notice that the new leaves are pale. Hope this helps, Lee