Peaches bear on last year's wood, every year you will need to prune it to head that wood back and to remove old wood to make room for new. Pruning that one for size won't be any additional work. But it may be easier to do all the pruning on the peach if it's not 15'. The pear will bear on long lived spurs so it will require very little pruning (if it's well behaved) once it's trained and probably reach larger than expected if you don't do size pruning. So you can only consider "to prune or not to prune" with the pear, and even then you're going to have damage control and thinning of some branches required. I've seen companies that were right on the money with their estimates and I've seen companies that greatly underestimate their sizes. I have never seen a company predict a huge size and hand out dwarf sizes. My rule of thumb is that if it's going to be other than claimed it will err to the large side. I've seen trees bought as dwarfs that dwarf my accurately sized semi-dwarf apple that's pushing 20 years with very little pruning later in life. I'd go dwarf for both. If you flipped the planting spaces around I may change to semi-dwarf for the pear just to get more fruit. But I wouldn't want to be climbing 15' to head back branches or be thinning out old 15' branches.

Tracy, I think you'll find plenty of information and opinions in the threads shown in the link below. It's the results from searching for 'dwarf spacing' in this forum (which should cover dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties). As you'll see, a big factor in spacing will be pruning. The cedars may present a problem from CAR (cedar apple rust). Since I'm not familiar with the prevalence of this disease in your area (and can't even tell where you live because you didn't include that info with your zone info or on your member page) , you might want to contact your local ag extension service for more locally-relevant information on that. If you want to supply your location, you might be able to get more information about CAR here, from someone close to your area. You may also want to do a search from pruning techniques. You'll find numerous threads on the topic (maybe to the point of overload). Once you've done a little studying on that, come back and ask questions to clear up any concerns you still have. I wish we had one single, really thorough thread about pruning, but unfortunately the information is pretty scattered. Finally, have you researched varieties that will do well in your area? That may be a "can of worms". If not, your local extension agent might be able to give you some initial ideas on that too, but you'll definitely want to supplement his/her recommendations with your own research. Here is a link that might be useful: Search for 'dwarf spacing'

Divine, I know that you think it is not dense, but it is. And adding potting mix, which is basically just peat, will make this mix even more dense. It will compact and will eventually cause water to accumulate in the bottom half of your pot, suffocating (drowning) your roots. Trust me, been doing this for a while, now :-) Silica is correct, so am I, so are the other several very successful container citrus growers on this forum. I wouldn't bother mixing my custom potting mix this way, if I didn't need to. And, it is quite warm where I live (Vista, N. San Diego county, about 7 miles inland), with little to no rain, and I still need to do this to prevent root rot. If I could have it easy, and just dump a bag of potting mix into my pot, I would. But, this eventually spells disaster in compacted and collapsed mix, and the death of my precious citrus tree. Since I grow a lot of rarer cultivars in containers, I consider it cheap insurance. You're welcome to do what you want, and ignore the advice of experienced container growers (and Silica is being very modest, he has the most fantastic greenhouse, and grows some of the most amazing things in a very inhospitable climate). I wish you luck, but I expect in a while, you'll see issues, so you can save this thread for future use, when you see your tree starting to do poorly. It will manifest itself in appearing to be under-fertilizing, then drooping, dropping leaves and overall failure. Those will be your signs of root rot. That, and a very wet bottom half of the pot with very stinky rotten roots. Patty S.

Listed by Cross Common Nursery - rather expensive http://www.crosscommonnursery.co.uk/citrus-and-tropical-fruits/orange-trees/citrus-orange-sanguinelli/c-1451/ Also may be available from The Citrus Centre in Sussex. Note that there isn't really any such thing as a 'dwarf' blood orange. If grown in-ground it's the rootstock that controls the size. If in a pot - presumably the case in the UK - then the pot size is the major controlling factor.