Taming kudzu/clearing land

18 years ago

OK garden buddies, it happened! The 1/2 acre lot next door was put on the market and we bought it. It sat empty for 9 years. It is covered with kudzu which has killed the pines and they are leaning toward the house. I have spent the last year in the house keeping it off MY fence, with multiple applications of Round-Up brush killer, which only offends the kudzu. Now, I will be able to get to the whole place and "make it mine" and wage serious war on the kudzu. I think I will be able to salvage the hard woods and some of the head-high pines and native brush.

Ok, here is where I need help. If I had the money, I would hire a track hoe to come in and do some leveling and push down the dead trees and pull down the kudzu, push it into a pile and burn it. But, I had to use 100% of my available money to buy the lot and I tend to lean toward wildlife friendly gardening..... All work will have to be done by me and hubbie, by hand. At most, I may be able to hire a guy to put the dead pines on the ground. I can handle the medium to light chainsaw work.

Sure, I have cleared land before, but, I was a few years younger. In the past year, I have even beat back the kudzu 10-15 feet from the fence, one cut at a time, taking about an hour to clear 10 feet.

Does anyone have any thoughts, experiences, words of wisdom, insight... Surely someone in the SOUTH has done this before?

I am thinking that if I can get most of it cleared and make the land "mowable", I will be able to keep the kudzu at bay using an old lawn mower as I begin to garden in small pieces.

What about a weedeater with a blade? Is it worth the cost? I have an older Stihl Chain saw from my ex, and, although I have used it on several occasions, it is really heavy and beyond me. I am thinking about spendning the money on a smaller Stihl or Husquavarna. My hubbie is from Fl and has NO experience with a chain saw and I don't want him to try to use the big one.

Featured Answer

nettles17

18 years ago

last modified: 9 years ago

Here is some info that I found on the web. Hope it helps!!

How to Control Kudzu
From the May 2003 issue of The Forestry Source

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When asked about controlling the infamous and invasive plant kudzu, some forestry professionals quipped that the best approach was to "sell the land and move away" or procure "a small tactical nuclear weapon." Despite such tongue-in-cheek assessments, effective means of controlling the spread of kudzu do exist.

"Kudzu patches can be eradicated with persistent treatments, or they can be contained and managed with other treatment options," says James H. Miller, research ecologist at the USDA Forest Service's Southern Research Station. "For eradication, every kudzu plant in and around a patch must be killed, or the spread from any surviving plants can make all prior efforts and investments useless."

Because kudzu vines can grow up to a foot per day in the spring and newly rooted plantlets occur at every node along these vines, containing kudzu can be difficult. Knowing where and how the plant grows and spreads its roots is important for successful containment because it often requires both cutting runners and herbicide treatments to control newly emerging plants.

One treatment advocated by some foresters and landowners is livestock grazing. Close grazing for three to four years has been shown to eliminate kudzu when 80 percent or more of the vegetative growth is continuously consumed. All types of grazing animals will readily eat kudzu, but gazing by cattle and sheep tends to be the best.

Miller says this treatment is most successful when kudzu is overgrazed in August and September for a succession of two to three years, followed by the planting of fast-growing pasture grasses or tree species at close spacing, and then continued grazing for an additional one to two years.

Herbicides
The most effective method of completely eradicating kudzu involves the use of herbicides. However, Extension Forester and Associate Professor of Forest Resources at Clemson University Larry R. Nelson says there are a few things to consider before starting a kudzu control program.

Nelson recommends that foresters and landowners begin by carefully inspecting the sites they plan to treat and considering the factors that kudzu age and vigor, terrain, and the presence of high-value trees and streams may have on herbicide selection and application.

In Open Patches
The most important criteria for control is the age of the patch because it affects the rate at which herbicides should be used. For patches more than 10 years old, the rate of herbicide use is double that of patches younger than 10. If the kudzu is layered to a depth of 6 feet or more, it should be considered as an older patch.

Most experts agree that Tordon herbicides offer the best results. Nelson says for open patches, Tordon 101 applied at a rate of 1 gallon per acre, or Tordon K at an application rate of 1/2 gallon per acre, give the best control per dollar invested when applied from May to September.

Around Young Pines
For effective control of kudzu in young pine stands older than two years, experts recommend several treatments of Oust at 8 ounces per acre. For treating loblolly pines more than three to four years, applications of the herbicides Escort, at 3 to 4 ounces per acre, and Transline, at 21 fluid ounces per acre, are also suggested.

Around Hardwoods
Escort and Transline can also be used to for treating kudzu in hardwood stands because both chemicals will not harm most hardwoods. However, these herbicides are said to cause damage to cottonwoods, elms, and legumes such as redbud and locusts.

Another concern, says Hughes Simpson, a forester with the Texas Forest Service, is controlling the weed after harvesting.

"Kudzu is a shade-intolerant species, so you don't necessarily have to worry about it getting deep into your pine stand if it is on the edges once your stand has reached crown closure," says Simpson. "However, once you conduct a thinning or final harvest, it will take off due to the increase sunlight. Therefore, control is extremely important before a final harvest and replanting."

In Tree-Draped Areas
In tree-draped areas, kudzu vines should be severed before treatment. If pines are greater than 15 years old or greater than 8 inches diameter at breast height, treatment of kudzu with 1 gallon per acre of Tordon 101 Mixture is suggested. However, Nelson says users should exercise caution when applying this herbicide to pines because Tordon 101 will likely cause temporary damage. He also adds that damage may be greater in trees already stressed by drought and disease.

Around Water
When treating kudzu around streams or other water sources, Nelson says Tordon products should not be used. As an alternative, he suggests using Veteran 720 at a rate of 2 to 3 gallons per acre. It should not be used directly over water or near water that will be used for irrigation or domestic use, he says.

Nelson says that foresters and landowners should note that successful kudzu management involves a long-term commitment in time and money. Because of its rapid growth--up to 60 feet per year--a single surviving kudzu plant can spread and re-infest a site within a few growing seasons. Thus, eliminating kudzu requires multiple broadcast applications of herbicide and follow-up spot treatments over a period of four to 10 years. Furthermore, the reestablishment of pine trees should not be attempted for at least four years after control measures are initiated.

Adapted from the Clemson University Extension Service publication, Kudzu Eradication Guidelines, by Larry R. Nelson, and from the USDA Forest Service Southern Research Station publication Kudzu Eradication and Management, by James H. Miller.

For information, contact Larry R. Nelson, extension forester, Department of Forest Resources, Clemson University, 272 East Lehotsky Hall, Clemson, SC 29634-0001; (864) 656-4866; lnelson@clemson.edu.

For an archive of "Here's How to..." articles, visit the SAF website at www.safnet.org/archive/howtoarchive.cfm.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (15)

Claire Pickett
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I'm not opposed to herbicides when they are truly needed...seems like they may be your best bet. Contact your local Cooperative Extension agent and make sure to read their chemicals manual before proceeding.
Related Discussions
Need Lots of Tips/Ideas on Field Clearing and Replacement
Q
Comments (23)
Hi Handel, I just saw this; perhaps you have already accomplished your project. I live not far from you, and we had a similar problem. We had a thicket of blackberry bushes covering about 1/2 acre. The bushes were tall enough that there could have been an old vehicle or two or even a small building buried underneath the vines for all we knew. We cleaned it up in a season without spending a lot, and mow this area about 3 times a year (4 times would be better). Ten years later it is still fine in the countryside setting; our uphill neighbors who drove past after we completed the project would say "good job". This is a rocky slope (darned glacial till!) with scattered mature alder trees. This is what we did: 1. Hired someone local who advertised blackberry brush clearing. He said he would turn the blackberry bushes into "chopped salad". He used a mower behind a tractor and worked slowly and patiently, chopping up a sliver, rather than a swath of brush, at a time because of the mass of vegetation. He obviously was experienced in doing this. 2. The tractor operator came back later, after the chopped vines were no longer viable, with a rototiller behind his tractor. He rototilled the slope twice, which turned under the chopped vines and helped smooth the bumpy ground into more gentle contours. 3. I hired a laborer to work by the hour, but paid more than minimum wage partly to encourage his interest in finishing the project. We raked up loose vegetation and wheelbarrowed it to a compost pile. Any visible remaining blackberry roots we ripped out with the aid of a hand cultivator. 4. We built wire bins along the fence line in which to dispose of rocks; they are mostly about golf-ball size to grapefruit size. (Our neighbors have gullies in which to toss rock, we don't.) We didn't want to leave rocks on a surface to be mowed. 5. We picked up some old downed branches from underneath the alder trees. We limbed up the trees quite high to give an open feeling to the "pasture" using a ladder and hand saw. We put the limbs through our chipper-shredder. 6. In the fall we hand seeded the area with an "ecology" grass mix. what we do now: Before mowing, we pick up rocks which have been recently turned up by moles and we check for downed alder limbs. My husband has a riding lawnmower with a mulching blade. He sets it to its highest setting. Unfortunately, on two sides of us there are abandoned horse pastures which have been overtaken by blackberry bushes. Vines intrude across the fences to attack my husband as he rides by. We manage to get out about once or twice a year to prune these back and put them through the chipper-shredder. We use a string trimmer around the trees, the rock cages and the fence line a couple of times a year. I've tried to establish more trees in this area, but not many have not survived because I haven't adequately protected them from antler rub. What I would do differently now: I would look into hiring goats for the first pass on the blackberry bushes, then follow through with mowing and rototilling. This might be more expensive, but it would be fun and a nice experiment. -m Here is a link that might be useful: Snohomish goat brush-clearing service
...See More
Taming and maintaining wild blueberries
Q
Comments (20)
Wild (lowbush) blueberries cannot be 'tamed', they only can be maintained by maintaining their habitat. You know whether or not you have wild blueberry bushes: their size ranges from 2" to 12", and the flavor of the berries is incomparable. No other 'blueberry' tastes like the low-bush wild blueberry. Wild Maine blueberries are now offered frozen in grocery stores, the only brand that we personally know that offers true wild Maine berries is Wyman. If you have only a few small blueberry plants and if they haven't increased on their own they may need more acid soil. You can use acidifiers that are labeled for rhododendrons or azaleas but before doing so consult U.Maine Extension to learn what dilution you need. Also ask whether mulching and more sun may be necessary. My blueberries grow in very thin soil over granite, are in full sun away from trees but they enjoy the 'mulch' provided by weeds and other low berry plants (cranberries). Except for fog, dew, or rain they're never watered, so it appears that they enjoy quite dry conditions. Though commercial growers irrigate the barrens and maintain other cultural practices (spot burning in the spring), we do nothing at all and always have a decent crop. If your berries aren't dropping to the ground and seeding, it's possible that birds and animals are eating them. In that case you can reserve a few berries for propagating. For propagation advice, consult U.Maine Extension. http://www.extension.umaine.edu/topics/blueberries.htm The answers you seek regarding blueberry culture are in the appended text below, copied from: http://www.wildblueberries.com/about_wild_blueberries/ Wild Blueberries of Maine & Canada One of only three berries native to North America, the Wild Blueberry (vaccinium angustifolium) thrives in the glacial soils and northern climate found in the fields and barrens of Downeast Maine and Canada. Rich in antioxidants, Wild Blueberries have grown naturally for thousands of years. The Lowbush Blueberries Unlike highbush cultivated blueberries, Wild Blueberries are not planted. These lowbush blueberries are primarily spread by rhizomes or underground runners, which give rise to new roots and stems. All shoots arising from the same rhizome system have similar characteristics and are referred to as a blueberry clone. Wild Blueberry fields and barrens actually produce many different lowbush blueberry clones, which account for the variations in color and size that characterize the Wild Blueberry crop. Growing and Harvesting: Blueberry Growers Combine Tradition and Technology Naturally suited to acidic, low-fertility soils and challenging winters, Wild Blueberries are a low-input crop requiring minimal management. The berries are grown on a two-year cycle. Each year, half of a growers land is managed to encourage vegetative growth and the other half is prepared for harvest. In May, growers import a billion commercial bees to aid the native bee population in pollinating the barrens and fields. There are many bee species associated with Wild Blueberries, including bumble bees and honey bees. Native bees are exceptional pollinators and Wild Blueberry growers take care to preserve wild bees through conservation practices. The Blueberry Grower Â Managing the Harvest After the harvest, which begins in late July and continues through August, the plants are pruned to the ground by mowing or burning. Wild Blueberries are harvested commercially only in Maine and Canada. The oldest commercial processing company dates back to 1874 and many of todayÂs independent, family-owned growers have been in the Wild Blueberry business for generations. Many Wild Blueberry crops are still harvested the traditional way, using hand-held berry rakes that were first invented in 1910. Whether hand raked or machine harvested, Wild Blueberries are sorted, cleaned and processed within hours of being picked, using state-of-the-art technology to reserve their flavor, quality and antioxidant capacity. From Fresh to Frozen Blueberries Â Preserving Taste & Nutrition Growers use winnowing machines in the fields to remove leaves and twigs before the berries are washed and frozen. Wild Blueberries are individually quick frozen (IQF) using a method that allows for the fast preservation of taste and nutrition for millions of berries. IQF berries can remain frozen for over two years without loosing their flavor or nutritional value. Laser color sorters are also utilized to remove anything but the finest quality Wild Blueberries prior to packing. Modern Crop Management Â Maintaining Healthy Land & Healthy Crops Wild Blueberry growers are strongly committed to best agricultural practices. They use sustainable management techniques to ensure healthy crops and to protect Wild Blueberry lands for future generations. Because Wild Blueberries are indigenous to Maine and Canada, they are naturally resistant to many native pests. Still, growers are challenged to minimize crop damage caused by environmental stressors such as disease, drought, insect damage and winter injury. Using Integrated Crop Management (ICM) and Integrated Pest Management (IPM) throughout the crop cycle, growers monitor disease and insect levels to minimize fruit destruction without harming the environment. Good luck. I hope your berries spread and flourish.
...See More
Kudzu
Q
Comments (15)
We don't have much kudzu up here in the frigid northland(KY) - but there is one small patch here in town that I could access in less than 5 minutes if I wanted to, and a couple others, over in Land Between the Lakes, about 30 miles away. When my kids were smaller, when we'd go home to Auburn, one of the first things they'd do when we got settled in at grandmama's house would be to run out to the garden fence and pick an armload of kudzu leaves for me to fry up for them. Dipped in buttermilk and dredged through some cornmeal with a bit of Cajun seasoning and black pepper mixed in, they fry up pretty tasty! Of course, everything tastes good fried!
...See More
Need Info On Clearing Overgrown Land
Q
Comments (10)
i don't know about who to contact to remove it for you. i usually do this type of work myself, honestly it is pretty time-consuming, though. you might want to look in local newspaper/yellow pages? or you might look on bulletin boards in your town. it's a good idea to check with references. but --- you might want to walk around the property and figure out what you have there. you might have some rare rose/shrubs/other plants. if you're not sure what it is, you can photograph it and there is a section of this web site to post photos and get help with plant identity. you never know what treasures you might have. and you could possibly move/incorporate them into new garden plans. we've found several old plants on our property that we decided to preserve. another friend recently moved upstate full-time found a lot of treasures that were hidden beneath the overgrowth of neglect for who knows how long. i think it would be a bit of shame to eradicate everything without first getting some sort of inventory, because you might find that you have some treasures there. and the more plants you can save, the less money you'll have to spend on new plants, which might help with the expense of paying someone to tame it. or --- maybe a neighbor (or someone on this message board) might be looking for a hard-to-find plant that is putting up a good fight to survive in your overgrowth. if it is something you don't want, you could post a little something here and probably find someone who'll want to rescue it and give it a new home in their garden. one more tip: take lots of before-and-after photos along the way. keep a record of the progress. it's fun to have a record of what it used to look like --- and look back at that a few years down the road. good luck! --robbie--
...See More
joefalco
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Agent Ornge
Claire Pickett
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I think they're still looking for the manual for that one!
ncgardengirl
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
We live on a rented lot and Kudzu is on all three size the only open spot is the front yard and driveway, although it is growing along the side of the drive and the neighbors yard. To the right coming up drive was our landlords pasture, his pony and mule used to keep that pretty well cleaned. But after he got rid of them the kudzu started growing there too.
We have used goats, and cows to try to keep it at bay. BUT they would not eat it, go figure. My Father raised sheep a long time ago and they stripped the land clean...so they work very well! (LOL)
So we decided to mow it down, in the winter is the best time to start working on it. If you can clear the lot so that you can mow it starting in the spring it will not come up. BUT you have to keep it mowed.
If it is not possible to get the lot cleared/clean of limbs and such to be able to mow it then YES, a weedwacker with the bruch attachment works really well.
We bushwacked a large patch growing next to the drive, after a about 3 year of keeping it mowed that part no longer grows.
In the back we have to keep it mowed because the land behind and to the side of us belongs to someone else and we are not gonna put the effort in it to keep it clean for them... we have already done enough of their maintance.

Whatever you do DO NOT try to burn it, because the fire will run under the Kudzu and you can not contain it or control where it goes.

It is work but you can get rid of it...start NOW and keep at it.

:) NCGardengirl
gurley157fs
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Well....... I was trying to tell you how to get rid of the stuff but my cat just stepped on the esc key and erased everything.

Short story - get goats or sheep.
dougt
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
My house and lawn used to be nothing but kudzu and pine trees. One full acre worth. I had the lot cleared and pine trees cut for $1500 back 15 years ago. I had centipede grass rolled out for an instant lawn and planted 400 azaleas in the beds. I had fought the kudsu for two years in the azalea beds using all kinds of techniques. I first started with round up at reccomended strength for kudzu. I learned that in order to kill kudzu with round up you have to have a large amount of leaves and a long vine to kill the root. Spray all of the leaves and make sure you add a little bit of liquid dish detergent in the solution so it will stick to the leaves well. Once the leaves were dry, I watered like crazy which sped up the process of killing the kudzu plant. As for the other vines that came up that were not very long, after I sprayed with round up the vine shrivelled up and a new one came up. I ended up just digging the root out of the ground. A kudzu root looks like a human arm and is just as big. Anyway After digging up several roots I have had no other problems with Kudzu. As for the sod laid lawn, I had a couple of shoots come up, but after several mowings I never had a Kudzu issue. Looking at your situation, I would wait till spring when the kudzu starts growing and just spray the heck out of the area with round up. Then when the kudzu appears dead, just clear the area. If this is not an option then this winter clear the area and plant winter rye to prevent any type of erosion. Then this spring watch for any kudzu to come up and just dig the root right out of the ground. Do this for a month and you should have the problem solved, then plant what ever you want to plant.
brenda_near_eno
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Miniature goat- they're cute too
ardenada
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
We are in Easley and are 1 year into clearing Kudzu.
What worked best for me was the following.
Using Lopper Pruners I cut every vine that I could reach over my head. (I'm 6'1")
Then cut as close to the ground as possible.
I let the vines dry for several weeks and then burnt small areas at a time. 10x10 20x20 etc.
My new neighbors thought I was crazy wrapping wet sheets around the trees that I wanted to save.
Then this past spring and summer I sprayed any new growth with Round-up and or Poison Ivy Killer.
Working in small patches at a time really worked best, so that the task didn't seem so huge.
I have gotten 1.5 acres clean with a little over .5 to go.
Thankfully it's not in the back 3.5 acres and never will be, if I can help it.
Good Luck, Alan
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
18 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
A good source of local information for you would be your county extension office. I sure would get them involved in helping you devise a pesticide program, if that is the route you decide to go.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:589857}}
kudzukiller
16 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I have spend the last two years of my life controlling 2ac of Kudzu while preserving some trees. I posted this in another forum. I hope it helps as it is the method I still use.

I recently purchased some property that had about 2ac totally covered with Kudzu. For the areas that had desireable trees underneath I needed to come up with a solution. My solution is: Since cutting the one inch thick stems and putting a few drops of stump killer was not enough. I cut small squares (1/2) of a regular sponge, and cut the fingers off from some of my latex gloves.

I cut the stem about one foot from the ground, placed the small sponge in the finger, then added about ten drops of stump killer and let it soak, then stretched the finger around the stem and pulled it tight. The seal of the latex kept the stump killer against the stem so it could soak it up. I came back one year later and have not found any of these roots that survived. let me know if this works. and if you patent it, send me some $$ :)
lindakimy
16 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
You may be able to trade that chain saw in for a smaller one. Dh had a big Stihl saw that was becoming more than he could handle as he got older so he traded it for a brand new one he could manage more safely - at no cost! Check with the Stihl dealer in your area.

I think the goats or sheep sound like a great idea to help clear your land. Is the new lot fenced all around?
coorscat
16 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Maybe you could try to cross the kudzu with tomatos and feed the county! Just kidding. I have always thought if you could graft some sort of vegatable onto kudzu vines it would solve the world's hunger problem. :o)
tamelask
16 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
actually, there's a kudzu cookbook out there. it's supposed to taste like grape leaves or spinach. bon appetit!
Iris GW
16 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Good for you, kudzukiller! Usually after I brush herbicide on a smaller stump, I cap it with a plastic sleeve such as a newspaper bag. A sandwich bag would work too, perhaps with a rubber band around it. That keeps animals (mine) from bothering it and also keeps any rain from getting to it.

I'll bet some good things must be springing up now that the kudzu is fading away.

Taming kudzu/clearing land

nettles17

Comments (15)

Claire Pickett

Related Discussions

joefalco

Claire Pickett

ncgardengirl

gurley157fs

dougt

brenda_near_eno

ardenada

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

kudzukiller

lindakimy

coorscat

tamelask

Iris GW

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US