I'm more than willing to concede a lot of points in this discussion. I'm sure Linda knows a whole lot more than I about what it takes to bring along an attractive AV. I readily admit that stressing the plant by keeping it root bound is almost certainly the preferred method of ensuring an attractive plant with lots of blooms. My experience with AVs is limited to 2 plants I bought in the fall, stuck in the gritty mix, over-wintered under lights, and fed with a fertilizer that drives its N from urea. I have no interest in AVs, the only reason I grew the two as I did is because I was assured it wouldn't work. Half way through the following summer I gave the plants away because I'd proven the point & had already lost interest. My inexperience might place me well below expert status on the ladder to AV growing stardom, but that doesn't mean I'm fresh off the boat when it comes to plant physiology. I understand how plants grow and what impedes growth. I have a very scientific mind, but if what I think I'm observing doesn't square with what I know of science, the first thing I reject is my own observations. It should be no surprise that I'm equally willing to reject someone else's observation as well, when it doesn't square with science. We are getting a lot of other issues confused with growth. Growth isn't looking pretty and having a maximum number of blooms, and a thriving plant by one grower's standards could still be missing out on a good deal of growth potential. I'm perfectly willing to concede that a better LOOKING plant is possible if it's grown tight. There is only 1 area of disagreement, and that is whether tight roots promote faster growth in any plant, but specifically Gesneriads. There is no scientific reason to believe that Gesneriads are unique among plants, regardless of what one person or 20 thinks when there are thousands on thousands of plants whose growth is negatively affected by root congestion. There are MANY growers like Alavoneluvhoya who feel their plants seem to grow better when root-bound, and are readily willing to attribute the better health to that condition - even in the face of the fact we KNOW tight roots retard growth. Please consider the more plausible explanation is, with the soil she is using, growing the plant tight may be necessary to prevent the root problems associated with the soil she is using. Tight roots means that favorable volumes of air return to the soil faster after a thorough watering - which eases the limitations imposed by the poor soil. Because the soil problem is eased by tight roots doesn't necessarily mean tight roots are desirable. They are STILL limiting, just not as limiting as the soggy soil's effect on root function. If you feel your plants grow better when root bound, you probably need to take a close look at what they are growing in. There is no need to trade one limitation for another in an attempt to improve growth. This doesn't mean you still can't be happy with a plant growing under limitations. ALL our plants are suffering some limitation, no matter how hard we try. What's important is knowing how to look at the problem and not so readily jump to post hoc conclusions or confuse coincidental relationships with causes. "I have a nice looking plant that is 10 feet tall with lots of blooms in a 6" container, therefore the plant likes being root bound" is exactly the same logic as, "I TRIED to grow a 10 foot tall plant with lots of blooms in a 6" container but it died before it got 2' tall, therefore 6" pots kill plants." Neither are logically valid. No one is trying to take away the tool of keeping plants root bound to get them to bend to your will. The only contention is that tight roots slow growth in all plants. In containerized plants, if you're vigilant, you can really start to note the slow down at about the point where the root/soil mass can be lifted from the container intact. Most of what I just offered is contained in a post I wrote back in '10 (see below). You might find Steve Lucas's comment offered on 9/3/10, as well as the rest of the commentary to be of interest ...... the text too, of course. ;-). Al Here is a link that might be useful: More here

It it gets 4+ hours of direct sunlight or somewhere around there it will grow like any other forsythia. Partial shade equates to 4-6 hours of sun and this plant does perfectly fine without impact to habit or foliage density. These plants set flower buds soon after new growth begins so you should have the optimal amount of sunlight during that time to maximize the blooms. If size does become as issue you can prune after blooming and before new growth begins. Some years you may have to prune right as the new growth begins. I can't speak to the blooming power between the cultivars but Kumson and Fiesta have more interesting foliage. I'd never plant a Forsythia that doesn't offer a bit more interest due to the non descript look during the growing seaon and typicaly poor fall color. Some have decent purplish fall color.

Well here goes, I've found that "my" cacti & succulents that get mostly shade and bright light but no direct sun light do fine, they seem to take on different shades of green colors , they're shapes also vary and just like all these plants that take on looks of there own look interesting and unique. If you still want light, set up some mirrors to deflect the sun, then whatever happens next is sure to be totally unique, but I think you'll like the shade results, maybe. Greg

Fiveleaf aralia, Acanthopanax sieboldianus, grows well under very difficult situations (dry shade with lots of root competition). The variegated version is very attractive, but even the all green version is nice and is also more robust under such conditions. It has thorns, but an attractive arching form. I planted one near the base of a large maple with no extra water and it didn't do much the first year, but really took off after that. If you plant anything more demanding, the key is to provide plenty of water. You basically have to water the trees providing the root competition, as well as the plants you are trying to grow. I also grow the bottlebrush buckeye, a great plant, and it should do fine, although I don't find it as tough as the fiveleaf aralia.