Your post reminds me of a thread I'll some day write that contrasts the difference between the perspectives with which we approach growing, one being that of grower convenience, the other being what's best for the plant. Many disagreements arise between people who temper their solutions with the application of different perspectives. While 'easy' is always desirable, it's not always best. Often, decisions are front-loaded of back-loaded, like financial vehicles. You can do a little extra work BEFORE you plant/pot to make things easier on yourself down the road, or take a simpler path and deal with any issues that arise, AS they arise. Either way, it's going to end up like it says in the old Framm Auto Parts commercial, "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later." The idea that you should just grab a pot and plant something in it w/o thinking about it is something like buying a car & not changing the oil. It's inconvenient to change the oil, or brakes, or keep a car tuned up, but the extra effort pays future dividends in that it makes your car a much more reliable mode of transport. Container plantings are not that much different. A little extra work in the beginning can go a long way toward preventing breakdowns; actually, now that I ponder that statement for a second, it can be taken in a very literal sense. Good job, Mike. You're doing so very well - and all the lovely pictures you've posted, forum-wide, are testament to the fact. Strong work! YPA Al

While it is not exactly a "rule", it is generally considered to be a very sound practice. The hard pruning of any newly planted clematis encourages the development of a good root system. And with pruning group 2 clems - those most prone to clematis wilt - a well-developed root system can go along way to discouraging this issue. I would recommend cutting your new clems back hard in late winter. I might even consider stretching that out to the following season as well. At best it will only delay the initial bloom flush a few weeks. I know sometimes it's hard to imagine that far ahead when your vine looks good right now but truly, taking the time and effort to ensure the best possible long-term conditions for it to thrive will pay off in the long run.

Well, first a type 2 is much more likely to be a problem, wilt-wise, than a type 3 (Jackmanii is a type 3). Rosemoor might be a good choice, Ville de Lyon or E. Markham or Niobe are others. There is no real red yet for the LFH, but there are a few much more red in the texensis group, which are type 3's.

Well, I planted in the 90 degree drizzle... One group has 2 Fairy Tale Pink, 1 Barbara Mitchell in back, 2 Becky Lynn in the middle, Tender Love and Last Accomplishment in the front (kind of Triangle shaped). I figured that Becky Lynn and Last Accomplishment would probably be blooming together, then Fairy Tale Pink and Barbara Mitchell (which I understand to be the child of Fairy Tale Pink), and to blow out at the end of summer, the nice fragrant blooms of Tender Love. Whether or not they will actually work that way here in Texas with our crazy weather, we'll see... I planted two groups of Strawberry Candy somewhere else in the yard... And a Ming Toy made it in the yard too... Now... if they do good, then I can justify buying some of the really exotic kind... 'Martina Verhaert' 'Roswitha' 'Jungle Beauty' 'Lone Star Border Guard'