More pics

Main thing is to keep them watered.

They look like they came out of the shade, watch for burning and rig up some sun protection if they start to discolor - so they don't go brown.

Get rid of the B1, it is snake oil.

You may find later you have planted them too close together.

Also I just noticed two pea sized fruit fall from satsuma is that to be expected?
Thanks

Yes, fruit drop is perfectly normal in young trees, especially a tree planted in the ground. If you see too much fruit staying one past the golf ball size stage, simply pluck off the extra fruit. B1 as bboy has mentioned has proved really not to do much of anything, so save your $$ on that. I'm not a fan of planting citrus in a lawn as the lawn will always compete with N for your citrus. You've done a good job of removing the grass from under the trees, just be prepared to continue to remove the grass as the canopies expand. Citrus feeder roots exist at the edge of the tree's canopy and a bit beyond. Also, if your lawn has lawn sprinklers, again, not good for the tree as it can promote foot root with the trunks constantly being hit with water. But, I know some folks simply don't have an option but to plant in a lawn. What I suggest, then, is see if you can dedicate perhaps a bed along a fence line or wall, remove all the grass, plant your trees, set up a drip system for the trees, and mulch (keeping the mulch off the trunks). That will allow the trees to not have to compete so much with the grass for nutrients.

Patty S.

Thanks BBoy. Yea that b1 looked like the bottle was on shelf since 1999. Guess I was the only sucker. I'm gonna take it back.

Keeping an eye on them regarding sun. All looks well so far. I planted them 6' off of fence and 6' from center from each other. Hoping it will work out....

Yes Patty I'm stuck on the lawn but I blocked off grass pretty good so it won't creep over. This is the only area I could really make it work so hopefully it doesn't get into a food war over the N. Yea dropped one more fruit today. Just hope I did it right. Any idea on how often to water when newly planted?
Thanks for your input.

Be prepared for the trees to be shocked and loose a considerable amount of their leaves. That is normal. Then again, they might not. This is normal also... Young non bearing citrus really only need nitrogen and maybe some micronutrients assuming your soil is reasonably balanced in nutrients and the pH not too far from neutral. I fertilize young citrus with nitrogen applied on the soil and I feed foliarly with a micronutrient mix. Water when almost dry at root depth. I am a big proponent of mulchless citrus growing btw. No commercial grower that I know of mulches their citrus trees. A citrus tree is not a rose.
Nik

Thanks Nick. Yea i hope trees don't get too shocked and shed most leaves/fruit. They are so healthy looking and hope to keep transition smooth. I only mulched because the sun beats so hard here and figure I could preserve some moisture until trees get a bit established and dirt staying in place when I water or it rains. I'll keep an eye on them. And will post a new pic. Any other suggestions in this early phase are appreciated.

A couple odd washed out color leaves. what could that be?

Meyer lemon. I used a stake on this one because it was leaning a bit.

This post was edited by MeanNgreen on Mon, Apr 28, 14 at 17:35

Satsuma leaves. Day 3 in ground. The younger leaves are curled and bit.

Satsuma

At least keep that mulch away from the trunk. You are inviting crown rot by mulching close to the trunk. The idea is not to have humidity trapped there not the opposite. Seems to me from the pic you have made a watering ring far from the trunk which is a good thing but I would still get rid of the mulch.
Nik

Nik
Gonna get rid of mulch and keep an eye out. Any idea why leaves are 1) folding in as opposed to wide open 2) why some of the leaves are discolored/distorted. See latest pics

Don't worry about the mulch. It will keep the grass from creeping back under the trees. This isn't a commercial grove. We can do things differently for different reasons. Commecial growers don't plant citrus trees in lawns. Just watch to make sure you don't have moisture building up against the trunks. I am assuming you are not in California, but perhaps in a more humid climate, so moisture control is important against the trunks. Water enough to keep the roots moist about 18" down. I just use a cheap plant stake stuck into the ground on occasion, to determine soil moisture. Certain commercial groves in California are using mulch, Nick. So, there are times where it is helpful, depending on the circumstance. Just take care that the bark doesn't stay wet. Leaves may be folding due to some transplant shock, which as mentioned, is normal. Also, leaf folding can be a sign the tree needs to be watered. Many commercial growers actually watch for this reaction, and know to irrigate. Check the soil to see. And lastly, make sure your trees are not in the line of lawn sprinklers, they will not tolerate being hit by lawn sprinklers.

Patty S.

IMO mulch is no good in the middle of the lawn, especially if it's touching the trunk exactly because there is the potential for permanent humidity around the crown AND too much organic material combined with humidity invites fungal attacks. There are better methods for controlling grass creep (e.g. using elbow grease). Mulching (with the right kind of material) in hot and dry (desert like) conditions were water availability may be a concern or in sandy soils is an entirely different matter. I'm assuming here that if one maintains a lawn, water saving is not in one's priorities.

Leaves folding up (the plant is making a water saving effort) is indeed a sign of draught stress or it can be a sign of too hot and dry conditions (during noontime for example). In the latter case leaves should unfold when it becomes cooler. during the evening. Check the humidity in the root ball. Take note that draught stress symptoms can also manifest if the rootball area is permanently water saturated (as in a badly draining soil), which applies to most plants not only citrus.
Nik

This post was edited by nikthegreek on Tue, Apr 29, 14 at 15:17

Patty and Nik, I kept mulch just moved to very out side so root ball is just under the fresh soil. I noticed it dried up on the surface in about 30 min this way but moist below.
Water seems to drain well i assume because any puddle that forms while watering vanishes in seconds. Soil is a bit sandy since they used sand and soil to grade land about a year ago when we moved in. Soil looks very dark and rich. I just watered them again since it's been about 3 days. How am I doing?
Is it a problem when you water on root ball as it washes away new dirt and exposes roots? Should I not water directly on root ball to avoid this. I use a low current on garden hose and just lay it there for about 40 seconds.

Also do you think I should thin fruit or prune tree right now or wait or not at all. About 30 fruit on each ranging from very small to just bigger than a pea.
?

Are you guys familiar with what this is all about? About 4 neighboring leaves are showing some kind of discoloration like colors bleeding out or something. Any idea what this is?

You need to find out the proper watering regime yourself. This will depend on soil and climatic conditions. Use a stick to probe at root depth in the beginning. Can't tell much from the second pic, maybe a closeup of the leaves (also the bottom side) will help. Wild guess, some little bugger is poking holes in your leaves and drinks the juice. I'm not familiar with pests where you live so someone else must chime in.
Nik

the back

the front

Its actually about 8 leaves in the same area.
Im in Myrtle Beach SC. zone 8b

Not sure if a sick tree or just some bugs.. and what to do.

Sorry, I don't recognise this, never seen it in my life. It looks like the epidermis is scraped off the leaf. Kind of mites maybe? No idea really.
Nik

This post was edited by nikthegreek on Tue, Apr 29, 14 at 16:52

Ok thanks Nik. Maybe will repost with just that question.