hoosierquit, You may well be correct that is a root oxygen problem. From the small amount of information Michael988 has provided us, I think we are all guessing. I also think you might benefit by finding a new azalea potting mix or check the pH of your 2 components before you mix them. The azalea mix I use for my blueberries starts out at pH 5.07. So, you either have a mix that will kill azaleas (entirely possible) or your compost is at a pH of 6.5 or higher with significant buffering capacity (also entirely possible), but to get a pH of 6.5 in your 1:1 mix, one of my 2 statements must be correct. There is TREMENDOUS variation in the quality of retail mixes and components that people put into mixes out there which makes it very difficult to advise people when they encounter a problem. Here are 2 publications discussing the variability: http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/15/4/752.full.pdf http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/16/1/7.full.pdf The point I was trying to make about pH I think is still a reasonable guess. As I tried to say above, over watering leading to the roots not getting adequate oxygen could be part or all of the problem. I will say I know of no mechanism whereby "too much organic materials" should cause a problem unless the particles are very small and comprise a high percentage of the mix such that you do not have adequate air space. But small particles in no way have to be organic to cause that problem. Why couldn't the azalea mix Michael988 used be pH 5 or even somewhat lower? I know it is entirely possible to get pine bark and presumably mulch that is below pH 3. The first bag of pine bark I ever bought was pH 2.9. Ted Bilderback, a professor at North Carolina State University and possibly the primer expert on growing in pots in soilless media in the world, discusses problems with pine bark that extend to all conifer chip products in the link below. Even under normal circumstances, the pH of pine bark should be between 4 & 5. So, if his mulch is pH 5 or lower and his azalea mix is pH 5 or lower, I do not think it is unreasonable to think another mix is not going to raise the pH to 6 and it seems to me there is a significant likelihood that the pH of his mix is in the low 5s. Bad for citrus. I have been reading these forums for some time now & only recently started posting. I do see very similar sorts of problems arise again & again. It is extremely unfortunate that many, even most based on the publications above, of the potting mix manufacturers do not produce a quality controlled product. hoosierqulit, you clearly encountered that problem with your blueberry mix. Entirely to your credit, you solved that problem and, I bet, you are happy with your blueberries now. I also bet that solving that problem was a real pain and cost you some bucks. michael988, good luck with your problem! You have a number of guesses of things to try or look at. Wherever reality lies, it appears you need to get that tree out of the mix you have it in. A possible, reasonably straight-forward fix is to ask hoosierquilt for pertinent details on where to get EB Stone's Cactus Mix and how she would transfer a tree under your set of circumstances. I grow my citrus in a home made blend that you do not appear to have time to make as it takes awhile to get the components. Here is a link that might be useful: insights into pine bark variables

Hey thanks for the excellent rundown on what has worked for you! Your mixed success with rosemary is very interesting. I am going to try planting some in several locations this fall and see if I can find that magic spot that it likes. I haven't had much luck with nasturiums here either. I really like them to set seed - the seeds can be pickled and made into something kind of like capers. Very tasty. The ones I planted last fall got killed by the hard freeze. The ones I planted in spring just never seemed to do anything. They formed a couple leaves and then just sat there doing nothing until they eventually burned up in the summer heat. Maybe I'll try some more this fall.

You'll actually have to specify which "version" of zone 10 you live in, as the climates vary tremendously and so will the sorts of species/varieties you can successfully grow. If you specify your location better, people can also give you a better idea about sources for plants. Here are three examples of zone 10 climates (all zone 10a, I think): Half Moon Bay, CA: Average July temps: 64/52, rain: 0.12 inches Yuma Arizona: Average July temps: 107/81, rain: 0.23 inches St. Petersburg, FL: Average July temps: 92/77, rain: 7.0 inches I have not heard of P. edulis flavicarpa (the yellow variety) being grown outside all year in CA, but that doesn't mean it hasn't been... I've always heard all flavicarpa need cross-pollination, and that any other clone of P. edulis, including all purple P. edulis will work. As far as nematodes, in CA I've never heard of nematodes being a huge problem, but I've also heard the plants have a 5-10 year lifespan (which I thought was maybe due to nematodes). I think an easy solution is just to restart from cuttings every few years. I suspect nematodes might be a bigger problem in Florida (?) but there the plants are even more vigorous and should be easier to restart from cuttings. I would think growing in a pot should work also. I've never tried growing the alata/quadrangularis types, partly because they get so big, and partly because they like more warmth than we have here. I think that is a good direction to go in Florida. In CA, at least close enough to the Coast (Sunset zones 15-17, 22-24) the cool-growing Tacsonias are worth trying. Perhaps in parts of Southern California they can get by with either. I think someone told me that CA winters are too cold for P. maliformis (?). If so, it still might be a good choice for Florida, whose average winter temperatures are much warmer, even where the USDA zone is the same. To follow up on the above zone 10 cities. Half Moon Bay, CA: Average temps in January: 58/43, rainfall: 5.4 inches Yuma, Arizona: Average temps in January: 69/45, rainfall: 0.42 inches St. Petersberg, FL: Average temps in January: 72/54, rainfall: 2.3 inches. A zone 10 summer in parts of CA is colder than a zone 10 winter in Florida. Winters average much colder in CA, even if the extremes are roughly the same. Unfortunately a lot of Passiflora sellers aren't too honest about what grows well in these completely different climates (or sometimes they don't know).

Not sure these fit your concept of "tropical", but what about: Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date) Trachycarpus fortunei and wagnerianus (windmill palms) Butia capitata (Pindo palm) Chamaerops humilis (mediterranean fan) Nannorhops (Afghan palm) Shame you don't like Queens; they are quite tropical in appearance (and cold tolerant). You might be successful with Rhapis excelsa (Lady palm) if you could offer some protection. P.S. They're not palms, but you might be interested in some of the hardier species of tree ferns (e.g., Dicksonia antarctica, Cyathea australis, etc.).