Fruitnut, Thanks for the pics and write-up. It's amazing the quality of fruit you can produce in the greenhouse. It looks like every nectarine on the tree is perfect. It's no wonder greenhouses/high tunnels are gaining such popularity. No fungus, few insect problems, no spring freeze outs, no bird pecks, no deer, no coons, no sunburn. Greenhouse/hoop house production may well be (most probably) the future for fruits in the Midwest and East. I have a question. On peaches, the low hanging interior fruit is always inferior (not very sweet). I either don't sell it, or sell it as seconds for canning. Some varieties seem worse than others. Do you see the same thing in your greenhouse with the reflective floor? I'm wondering if the reflective floor gives enough light to the interior fruit so that there isn't a recognizable difference in quality/sugar?

The thing about giving horticultural advice is that in the end there are no hard rules although there's often a lot of research. Theoretically it would seem that if you bare rooted an Asian pear tree and did a really good job of saving the vast majority of major roots it would survive the same way you could count on an apple or peach doing when handled the same way. Asian and euro pears, however, react much differently and sometimes never come out of dormancy when transplanted this way when they are fairly mature. 3" diameter is certainly entering a more difficult period of transplanting. I really don't know for sure what would best enhance the trees chances of survival but I would certainly remove all or most of the small spur wood as well as water sprouts. It might also help to wait to very late winter or early spring to attempt it. If the tree flowers remove them promptly as well. Certainly wait until dormancy for moving any pear. The safest thing would be to move it in a ball, but that's a lot of work. I would go for the BR approach and cut back at least as much as I've stated. You learn a lot more if you take some chances. You'll help me learn if you post how it turns out. On pruning the Shiro- I never use the stubbing method as a primary training method and prefer cutting back branches to small laterals as much as possible. However Shiro is not always very cooperative at producing secondary and tertiary branches so sometimes you're left with little choice. I'm not saying that the tree can't be trained by annual cutting back of new wood to encourage better lateral branching but it is imperfect as it will only generate new growth as the point of the cuts. The growth there will need to be managed during the growing season to re-establish a leader on that branch by pinching back the branches to be the new laterals and pinching off the surplus and leaving the straightest growing shoot to dominate and lead the branch. I usually leave lots of extra scaffolds on J. plums when they're young and gangly and thin them out as branches fill out. Stub cutting scaffolds delays fruiting substantially.

The recommended organic spray for late blight is copper. The prices for copper are astronomical on account of copper just costs a lot right now. Last year as usual I grew my tomatoes from seeds. Hearing about late blight, I tried an experiment with straw mulch for my big tomatoes, which is one recommended response. I had my cherries in pots. My neighbor bought his tomato plants. When the blight hit, his plants all dropped dead in a period of two days. My straw-mulched plants didn't do too well, since I was not used to using a straw mulch and didn't notice they needed water as often as I would have otherwise. They did get blight eventually, but it didn't matter much, since the lack of water seriously cut into their production. The plants in pots did okay. Eventually, they did get blight, no doubt from my neighbor's plants. The one that lived longest was Matt's Wild Cherry. I decided that this year I would not grow any tomatoes, that I would buy them from areas of the country that aren't getting late blight, because I just had a feeling that the late blight would be back. Sure enough, it is in PA (I'm 15 mi from PA in NY, so it's just a matter of time). A friend of mine who grows a lot of his own food is growing Matt's Wild Cherry for tomatoes this year and foregoing the copper. Good soil? My plants had very good soil. But it's soil, not a force field. When there is that much disease around, it doesn't matter how good the soil is.

Hello Jon. Yes it was my understanding that Chris used a systemic spray. It does sound like it is possible to parthenocarpic induce fruit set in sterile fruit with out natural pollen. We likely tried something that was available at his nursery like tomato set spray or a sales person from one of his vendors recommended a spray. Here is some information. When I have time I will give this a try? Best http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/showthread.php?p=21254 Tomato Fruit Set Spray User Name Remember Me? Password Register FAQ Links DB Calendar Today's Posts Search HortBoard If you are unsure about where to post your question, post it here in the Hortboard forum. New to gardening questions welcome! Search Forums Show Threads Show Posts Advanced Search Go to Page... Thread Tools #1 July 1st, 2005 Megami Generous Contributor (100+ posts) Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 166 Tomato Fruit Set Spray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is tomato fruit set spray and how/why does it work? Thanks! Megami View Public Profile Visit Megami's homepage! Find all posts by Megami #2 July 13th, 2005 Unregistered Posts: n/a Re: Tomato Fruit Set Spray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The active ingredient is the man-made auxin (hormone) 4-Chlorophenoxyacetic acid (4-CPA) that is well known to promote fruit set commercially. Bio101--Why it works: "...Fertilization within the ovules stimulates the ovary enclosing them to begin growing into a fruit. Within a few days the ovary begins to swell. This is called the fruit set. Fruit development is under the influence of the plant hormones auxin and gibberellin. Pollen is one of the richest natural sources of auxin, so it is thought that the initial stimulus to fruit growth comes simply from the auxin to which the pistil is exposed as a result of pollination. Applying the hormone auxin or gibberellin to the ovaries of flowers can induce a fruit to develop without pollination or fertilization. This is called a parthenocarpic fruit and is, of course, seedless." http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/gibberellic.html Gibberellic Acid for Fruit Set and Seed Germination John M. Riley The following information is taken from a article by John M. Riley that appeared in the 1987 CRFG Journal (vol. 19, pp. 10-12). See the back issue information for price and ordering information. The Germination Process The first stage of germination consists of ingesting water and an awakening or activation of the germ plasma. Protein components of the cells that were formed as the seed developed, became inactive as it matured. After an uptake of water, the system is reactivated and protein synthesis resumes. Enzymes and hormones appear and begin to digest reserve substances in the storage tissues and to translocate the digested substances in the storage tissues to the growing points of the embryo. The sequence of the metabolic pattern than occurs during germination involves the activation of specific enzymes at the proper time and regulation of their activity. Control is exercised by four classes of plant hormones: inhibitors such as abscissic acid which block germination; auxins which control root formation and growth; the gibberellins which regulate protein synthesis and stem elongation; and cytokinins that control organ differentiation. Ethylene is also believed to have a control function in some plants. Sometimes the last three controls are used together to crash through dormancy in germinating difficult seed. Gibberellic Acid Gibberellic acid (actually a group of related substances called gibberellins) was discovered as a metabolic byproduct of the fungus Gibberella fujikuroi, which causes the stems of growing rice to elongate so rapidly the plant collapsed. Synthetic forms of gibberellic acid are available commercially. Gibberellic acid (GA) is a very potent hormone whose natural occurrence in plants controls their development. Since GA regulates growth, applications of very low concentrations can have a profound effect. Timing is critical: too much GA may have an opposite effect from that desired; too little may require the plant to be repeatedly treated to sustain desired levels of GA. Effects of Gibberellic Acid Overcoming dormancy. Treatment with high concentrations of GA is effective in overcoming dormancy and causing rapid germination of seed. Concentrations of about 2 ppm can cause tubers to sprout earlier. Premature flowering. If a plant is sufficiently developed, premature flowering may be induced by direct application of GA to young plants. This action is not sustained and treatment may have to be repeated. Formation of male flowers is generally promoted by concentrations of 10 to 200 ppm., female flowers by concentrations of 200 to 300 ppm. Concentrations of more than 600 ppm markedly suppresses initiation of both male and female flowers. Increased fruit set. When there is difficulty with fruit set because of incomplete pollination, GA may be effectively used to increase fruit set. The resulting fruit maybe partially or entirely seedless. GA has increased the total yield in greenhouse tomato crops both as a result of increased fruit set and more rapid growth of the fruit. Hybridizing. Pollination within self-incompatible clones and between closely related species may some times be forced by the application of GA and cytokinin to the blooms at the time of hand pollination. Increased growth. GA applied near the terminal bud of trees may increase the rate of growth by stimulating more or less constant growth during the season. In a Department of Agriculture experiment, the GA was applied as a 1% paste in a band around the terminal bud of trees. Treatment was repeated three times during the summer. Walnut tee growth was 8.5 ft. for treated trees, 1.5 ft. for untreated trees. Frost protection. Spraying fruit trees at full-blossom or when the blossoms begin to wither can offset the detrimental effects of frost. Root formation. GA inhibits the formation of roots in cuttings. Recipes Although GA is not listed as a "poison", the following precautions should be observed: Flush with water any GA that may get into the eye. Avoid skin contact if possible. If skin contact is suspected, wash with soap and water. Do not re-enter an area after spraying until the GA spray is fully dry. Avoid ingestion of GA. The powder may be dissolved as specified below to give the desired concentration. Concentration parts/million GA mg Water ml (cup) Purpose 50 125 2400 (10 1/2) Early flowering 200 125 600 (2 1/2) Early flowering 800 125 160 (2/3) Blossom set 2000 125 60 (1/4) Seed germination 1% paste 125 5 ml (1 tsp.) lanolin Growth promoter -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright 1987,1997, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc. Questions or comments? Contact us. http://www.super-grow.biz/GibberellicAcid.jsp#combine