New to LA - need advice on plants for a north facing balcony
bonnieolivia
15 years ago
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greenwitch
15 years agoRelated Discussions
New to Southern California and New to Balcony Gardening, Advice?
Comments (3)You may want to go with plastic pots to keep the weight down and go as large as possible. I tried a few commercial bagged mixes before settling on Foxfarm Ocean Forest mix. Your biggest issue will be watering. I assume you don't have a spigot outdoors but you can attach a hose thread adapter to a kitchen sink and run a hose out to the balcony. The hotter it gets the more watering you will need to do and lugging a big flower pot back and forth is no fun as I learned last season. I am right on the coast so I was lulled into a false sense of security with the spring and summer fogs last year but got a rude shock in late summer and fall and had a hard time keeping up with watering. I grow all ornamental plants. Started out with a focus on hummingbird plants and have shifted to succulents to help keep down my water use. It may be too late already for peas in your climate but it may be worth a try anyway since the nights are probably still cool. I love my little balcony garden but I can't wait to have a yard again. Good luck!...See MoreNeed help picking out a color for North facing room please!
Comments (15)50-ish, if you find one at 45 or so that you like don't discount it just because of the LRV number. Unless there are standards/color specs involved, LRV is more like a loosey-goosey guideline, not a formula or prescription to follow. And, yes, colors with a higher LRV number have better odds of delivering the light and airy atmosphere you're after vs. darker colors. A dramatically shifting paint color has more to do with its own metameric tendencies vs. the quality of light. A rule of thumb is if your color stays consistent in appearance when viewed in fluorescent and incandescent lighting, it will *probably* be consistent in any light source. More about north light: North exposure is not direct rays of sunlight. Very different from south light beaming into your kitchen almost all day long, or the morning sun bursting through your east facing bedroom windows at the break of day. North light isn’t necessarily reflecting or bouncing off of something else to get inside the space, it’s just that when your windows face north you don’t have actual, direct beams of light entering fenestration. North light is the most balanced from a spectral distribution perspective, it has a nice, even collection of all the wavelengths though it tends to be heavier in the blue range. Because it’s a balanced bundle of wavelengths and also because it is not a direct beaming, or spot-light effect of natural light, north facing rooms are ideal for any kind of artistic work environment. The pronounced blue of north light is a factoid that's been blown way out of proportion. Blogosphere has taken that one single aspect of north light and made a huge deal out of it - I guess because it makes a good 'sound bite' or something. I dunno. But it's kind of a dumb thing to hyper-focus on. Heavy in blue doesn't mean it's gray. Doesn't necessarily mean it's cool either. North light is simply indirect light that's balanced over the visible spectrum as a whole but with a pronounced bump of blue....See MoreBermuda advice needed in North Texas!
Comments (11)My plan of attack is as follows. Step 1: I will apply some shampoo (3 ounces per 1000 sq ft) to help the soil retain water and go deeper to those roots. Step 2: Apply some alfalfa pellets at a rate of 20 pounds per 1000 sq ft. I have 10,000 sq ft, so looking at buying 200 pounds. This should bring back those worms and thatch eaters! Step 3: Level the low spots with some sand. Believe it or not, but there are spots that are too high. I'm talking 2-3 inches above the sidewalk high. I'll take top layer of bermuda off and level it then place the bermuda back. There's not many spots like that, but it should help with the crop circles. Step 4: Depending on how the alfalfa pellets do, I might do another bag of Vigoro 29-0-4 on August 1st. Regarding the height of the bermuda. I have mentally battled this back and forth for months. I love the look of a nice, short, plush fairway/green. I'm a golfer, so I love it short and green!! But as a teacher and football coach finding time, and energy to mow 10,000 sq ft can be a battle. I think I want to keep it around 1 inch, and I'll keep the rotary for now. It cuts at 1" for its lowest setting. I'll mow Saturday's and Wednesday's. Leveling it should help a lot. Today on the golf course I saw a riding reel mower. I asked the guy to let me buy it off of him...uhhhh too much money. Like more expensive then some brand new cars expensive! Anyone have anything else to add that I should do? I will be posting pics of the lawn tonight in the shade. -Phil...See MoreClimbers for North facing wall: need input before sale ends!
Comments (6)Aloha is my desert isle, if-only-one rose. Generous nearly continuous bloom from early to late on a sturdy yet flexible framework with impeccable health here in blackspot country no spray. Sumptuous large quartered flowers with subtle undertones show that lit from within quality, pack a rich delicious fragrance of damask & fruit (not apple as HMF states), last two weeks in the garden or cut, unfurl slowly & drop their petals cleanly. A mature Aloha here, grown from a gallon ownroot, reaches 14' high. (ARE's height of 6-8' describes its form grown as a freestanding shrub & they list it with large shrubs in their print catalog.) Blooms are routinely 5" & larger in Autumn. Bloom is also very full all over the plant, which is literally studded with blooms. Grown in an ESE location, mine receives morning sun till 1 pm then dappled shade through much of the Summer, but as the Sun's arc shifts in Autumn, enjoys less than 4 hours of direct sun. Last blooms just finished & the display was only slightly less full than earlier in the season. Big fat hips form decoration through the cold months. Deadheading through the bloom season is optional as bloom continues regardless, very nice quality for the high growth. Thorns are well spaced along the branches, so find it easy to work with. Cane hardy to the tips down to -4F. (Lowest temp for the 18 years we've lived here.) Do order this one, and later its sport, Dixieland Linda aka Lady Ashe. Others on your list landed here only this year & received my usual routine of pinching all but one bud each as first year own roots. Can merely report their foliage is clean so far no spray & they've grown enthusiastically. Like you, researched for health no spray, bloom, fragrance & suitability for my conditions. Found them likely candidates to give a go. Another new pair of Alohas, Climbing Caroline Testout, Climbing Crimson Glory, Felicia, Parade & Pinkie Climbing from your list growing on in pots. Still debating Blossomtime & others ARE offers for order today while free shipping applies. Pairs of Cl. Crimson Glory & Westerland arrived from ARE this Fall & the shipping for 4 was $34 - almost enough for 2 more roses during their free ship sale. They send hefty plants with great root systems in specially designed protective packaging that's easily opened. Best buy in my book for older more developed own root roses at prices comparable to bands & gallons. Shipping for 4 broke down to $8.50 per rose via FedEx. A pair of 2-gallon Parades arrived mid October from K & M during their sale. Wanted to try that one for years, but put off by the color description as "rather harsh" by UK authors. Finally went ahead to see for myself, since the quality of light here on the 38th latitude softens the intensity of some saturated hues. Allowed a bud to develop on Parade & found the color very appealing & jewel toned. About to be nipped by a hard frost, cut it with a short stem to keep at my desk. Really too early to cut, it still managed to partially open & the fragrance was satisfyingly promising. Great luck with your choices! Sue...See Moreltecato
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15 years ago
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