I see...quite the setup you have there. I still use gravity thru an open ended hose or a water can like the galvanized one pictured above, or buckets when I am using ACT. I haven't yet hooked up my modified soaker hoses because we have been getting enuff rain. What kind of pump is that? I was looking for a pump to move water from some closed barrels I have. Looks like that pump would work. Currently I am using a sump pump to move the water but first I have to dump the water into a garbage can with the sump pump in it. When I first started I was using a bucket brigade to move the water closer to the garden. Hey it saves on gym membership... I still use buckets with holes in them to water some beds. I think it soaks deeper and puts the water where I want it. This method also gives me a real good idea just how much water the plants are getting. Tell me more about the camp trailer pump you mentioned? With a pressure switch? Advantages? Thanks, Gumby_CT

bertd, I'll tell ya, my 422707 has always kinda gone "Uh, uh, uh, for about 3 to 4 revolutions before it takes off spinning fast, and by that time the engine is running. I actually have not tried mine with the spark plug wires off to see if it keeps on going uh, uh, uh, uh, without a spark or not. The reason I bring this up this way is because the starter motors on these OPE engines are just about up against the max performance they can muster even when brand new with a hot battery. Toss a bit of age and wear into the mix and the cranking gets even less impressive. I have begun thinking that the reason the starter speeds up after a few revolutions on my flathead twin is because about 3 or 4 revolutions of the crank is what it takes to get fuel out of the carb and into the cylinders.......and then the engine is really beginning to run on its own power, taking much of the load off the starter so it sounds like it's spinning the engine faster for that very short second before you let go the key. At least that's how it sounds here at my house.

If you use a cycle with pre-wash, you can divide the amount of detergent up. Let's say your box of detergent says to use one scoop of detergent for a full load. Take that full scoop and put 40% of the detergent into the pre-wash compartment and 60% in the main wash compartment. That's what Miele recommends. For simplicity's sake, you might just as well divide it up 50/50. Powder generally cleans better than liquid and there's no need to dissolve powder before adding it to the drawer. Only if your LG does a Tap Cold pre-wash (that is, if it doesn't use ANY hot water for the pre-wash fill), liquid might give you better results as powder does not dissolve too well in water too cold. Or - alternatively - you can dissolve your powdered detergent in warm water and then add it to the pre-wash compartment. Unless you're washing delicate laundry, you can load the washer all the way up. Not so much that the door won't shut or items will fall out - so don't "stuff" the washer - but you really can load it all the way up. Especially a load of towels, once wet, will lose a lot of its initial volume and tumble just fine. I searched YouTube but there don't seem to be videos of people loading their (US-sized) washers. I attached the one I found and would consider this a medium-sized load. HTH, Alex Here is a link that might be useful: Loading my High Efficiency Washing Machine

Couple of things....some plastic does allow moisture to escape..."freezer bags" not so much.,..and of course foil is moisture proof but only as good as the seal. As an experiment put a cut onion in a non freezer zip lock bag and lay it on your counter....see if you can still smell it. Secondly it's not the warming and cooling that allows for freezer burn , but the presence of air between the moisture barrier (plastic bag or wrap) and the food. Even at sub zero temperature frozen water sublimates and becomes water vapor...if there is air present for it to dissipate into. If there is no airspace, the frozen stuff doesn't lose moisture....even if partially thawed. It's sort of the same reason why you lay plastic wrap on the surface of a cooling custard to prevent a skin forming...you are preventing the loss of moisture. Also a full freezer runs more efficiently than one partially empty. Experts recommend you fill a freezer with jugs of water as you use up food, to keep it running more efficiently. Also more modern self defrosting freezers don't have a heater plate that defrosts accumulated frost as the old ones did and don't defrost every so many hours, but are "smarter" and the defrost time is adjusted for the time based on the time it took previously to defrost, and consequently keep your frozen food better....even as they defrost themselves. And the reason a chest freezer works more efficiently than an upright, even if both are not self defrosting, is because cold air is heavier than warm air....and literally "falls out" or an upright when you open it, and it takes more energy to cool the freezer down after it has lost some cold air. With a chest freezer, the cold air stays in the bottom as you open it. In years back, the Maytag Repairman used to be a good friend! Not to name drop...but one Sunday I was having a rather informal dinner party for 4 other couples...one of the men happened to the the President of the Maytag Company. My Maytag dishwasher had some broken prongs on the rack and I couldn't load 10 plates. anyhow the next morning a repairman appeared at my door with a new rack, installed it and took the old one away! Sorry to get off track.... LOL!