skip to main content

California Gardening

Boxwood substitute for dry shade?

15 years ago

can anyone give me ideas for a plant for a formal garden that will grow well in a garden that is in complete shade? I'd like to grow boxwoods, but runfortunately, that area of my garden is completely shaded. would berberis work? (i'm in zone 9)

many thanx,

j.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

gardenguru1950
15 years ago
Some quick thoughts:

Vaccinium ovatum, EVERGREEN HUCKLEBERRY
Ugni molinae, CHILEAN GUAVA
Myrtus communis, ROMAN MYRTLE

Joe
wanda
15 years ago
Boxwoods (B. japonica) should grow well in shade, but other suggestions.....

Acuba japonica (green or variegated)
Sarccoccoa (sp?) ruscifolia
Euonymous microphylla (boxleaf euonymous)
Related Discussions
Holly vs Boxwood?
Q
Comments (3)
Ditto waplummer regarding Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly). Grew up with one that is that age. Plus they don't have branches die out in the center in such a dramatic fashion as a box (particularly english box). Since it appears that shearing is desired, they would definitely work better with that type of maintenance then the larger-leafed hollies, which beg for heading rather than shearing.
...See More
Various shrub recommendations for dry part shade
Q
Comments (15)
whaas - I generally don't like yellow/gold (which might seem a bit strange since our house is yellow!) So I have almost no yellow flowers in the garden and, up until recently, had very few yellow foliage plants - they always look sick to me :-) However, I have come to see that the best way to use yellow plants is to mass them together - hence the golden path idea. My 'lightbulb moment' re yellow came a few years ago on a local garden tour when I was bowled over by the combination in the picture below. There were a number of other 'yellow' plants in the garden but they were mixed in with other - heavily 'blue' type - plants. The gardener was obviously trying for a yellow and blue themed garden but it came off as a bit insipid. But it struck me that what would have made a very striking and beautiful garden was to mass all the yellow stuff together. I've been looking for an excuse to try it ever since... :-) My SIL planted some yellow globe cedars near their front door a couple of years ago and I suggested she plant the Golden Forest Grass with them. She did and that makes a beautiful combination - and reinforced my desire to try for a yellow grouping. We'll see how it turns out.... Have you considered running a soaker hose in the area to provide supplemental water? I used soakers to start the garden under the pines. After the first couple of years I didn't need to use them anymore. So far, even the Golden Forest Grass is surviving under the pines even though it's supposed to prefer moist soil. If the plants aren't too expensive, I always push the limits on the moisture issue. For instance, Rodgersias are supposed to prefer moist soil but they do best for me in soil on the dry side in shade. Astilboides, on the other hand, most definitely needs lots of moisture and do wonderfully well planted at the base of downspouts from the eavestroughs! Experiment, experiment...
...See More
Dry Shade
Q
Comments (6)
Ooooh. I've been batteling those conditions for several years now! Tons of fun! (NOT) I was able to build up a few raised beds to help improve soil quality and can grow quite a few things there now. Don't know if you can or want to do that where you are gardening. I planted black eyed susans and echinaceas for bloom in early summer - they can handle the shade though they are smaller than those in the sun. Oxeye daisies do well and bloom in early spring before the new leaves have unfurled. Pretty little wood sorrel and wild violets are nice low growing plants for early spring, as are daffodils. Another native plant to take a look at is the dainty-looking Dittany. This tough as nails perennial is often found growing at the base of oak trees. It forms a lovely round shrublet about 14" tall, has small green leaves that smell like oregano (it is in the same family), blooms are unremarkable but pretty in their own way and the foliage turns reddish in the fall. You can hardly kill it and you can actually make a lovely tea with the leaves or use them as an oregano substitute. One plant that will grow, and bloom, anywhere and all summer long, is the naturalized Asian dayflower. Beware: this is considered an invasive plant not native to the Ozarks and once you have it in reasonably good soil, it is difficult to erradicate and spreads. But it is pretty and tough as nails. I would suggest taking a walk through the woods and see what neat things are growing there. Please don't dig anything up (I'm a passionate conservationist) - they need to be left for the wild places, but they sure can get you thinking. And perhaps, especially this time of year, you can collect some seeds of things you like or look for them at a nursery that specializes in native plants. Well, I've rambled. All the best! Jill
...See More
Dry Shade Garden
Q
Comments (6)
Tiger Dawn, You've already received excellent advice on going vertical in that narrow bed where the overgrown boxwoods are currently growing. Either espaliered vines or espaliered trees would add a vertical element and help break up that very long expanse of brick wall. The bed is so narrow that virtually anything shrubby will spread out too wide and encroach on the sidewalk. If your friend doesn't want to spend the time maintaining espaliered plants, then I'd plant a climbing, creeping vine and let it cover the wall. I use Virgina creeper for that at our house but it does lose its leaves in winter. Boston Ivy likely would work in that location as would several other members of the ivy family, and Persian ivy would look especially lovely. If your friend really want shrubs, then it would be best to go with something that is incredibly narrow and strongly vertical in growth like Helmond Pillar barberry or Sky Pencil holly (pictured in the link below). On the attached link, you can see a shrub with highly vertical and narrow growth. Something like this could work for a few years in this location, but I even think they will outgrow that very narrow bed along the wall over a period of years. There are some very narrow condifer-type trees and y'all might go to the Sooner Tree Farm website linked below and look for photos of some of them there. They are among the more narrow trees/shrubs available and might outgrow the space too. Other than vines or espaliered trees that would hug the wall and not try to take over the sidewalk, only the most narrow and columnar shrubs or trees can be used to add height to this bed. Of course, she could go with all kinds of dwarf shrubs or groundcovers but they won't do anything to break up that long expanse of brick and I bet she'll get tired of looking at it after a while. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Holly 'Sky Pencil'
...See More
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
15 years ago
Boxwood does well in shade here.
jxa44
Original Author
15 years ago
thank you everyone for your suggestions -- if at all possible, i would like to use boxwood. but this is pretty deep shade, so didn't think that the boxwood would grow in the shade. but i guess nothing beats a failure but a trial. so i'll buy a couple and see what happens :-)
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
15 years ago
Can you thin out your trees a little to let in more light? Really deep shade Clivia miniata is your plant. They can look quite formal if planted in raised beds or in large-ish containers.
jxa44
Original Author
15 years ago
you know hoovb, i thought the same thing. then i googled clivia, and found that they need water, and this is on the front of my property, and I'm not likely to water much there. i don't mind watering to estblish, but after that, the plants need to take care of themselves. Plus, i live in an area over run by deer, do you know if deer are attracted to these plants?

thanx again everyone for your suggestions,

j.
calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
15 years ago
I have established Clivia in a grove of three mature Deodora Cedar. They are on a drip system but do not have a problem with the root competition of the cedars. Deer have never eaten them and they bloom fine. As they were started from seed they took five years to the first bloom. For bloom from the first year I would start with five gallon size. However I would try the boxwood, also starting with five gallon size and after the first year in most soils they will get by with the winter rain. If the shade is too dense they will tend to not be as compact and as thick as you might like. Al
jxa44
Original Author
15 years ago
thanx Al. I don't remember (we haven't "talked" in a while), do you have problems with voles?
calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
15 years ago
When we had cats the vole hunting was great sport. Now we have a large population in the garden and woods. Unless they move into the house, I am not sure if they are doing damage other than making lots of holes. Since you remind me I do remember you and believe you ordered some plugs the last I heard. Did they work out for you? Al
jxa44
Original Author
15 years ago
Nope. nothing has helped so far. this season i started planting everything in aviary wire baskets. keeping my fingers crossed that this will *finally* help. between the voles and deer (not to mention the plethora of other critters) gardening in the a rural area is very, very challenging . . . sigh.

joyce

Related Stories

ROOFS No Substitute for the Natural Beauty of Wooden Roof Shingles and Shakes

By Matt Clawson

This natural, renewable roof option brings weathered character and nostalgic appeal to traditional-style homes

LANDSCAPE DESIGN Boxwood Alternatives Bring the Chelsea Flower Show to You

Don’t let box blight limit your plans to borrow garden design ideas from the renowned British event

GARDENING GUIDES Boxwood: Still Shape-Shifting After 350 Years

By Mary Jo Bowling

Wild or mild, the humble boxwood still brings style and order to all kinds of gardens

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Boxwood

By Becky Harris

This elegant evergreen can shape shift into forms limited only by a gardener's imagination and a clipper's reach

LANDSCAPE DESIGN How to Create a Beautiful Shade Garden

By Falon Mihalic

Turn the cool, shady spot in your garden into your own quiet oasis

PLANTING IDEAS 8 Sumptuous Shade Garden Plant Combinations

By Olander Garden Design

Enjoy these plant combinations made for spots with varying levels of shade and different garden zones

PATIOS 6 Patio Cover Types to Shade You in Style

By Bud Dietrich, AIA

Protect yourself and your deck from the blazing sun with umbrellas, cloth, built structures — or nature's perfect shading solution

PLANTING IDEAS A Great Spring Plant Combo for Dappled Shade

Time these ephemeral beauties right to watch them play off one another under a canopy of deciduous trees

GARDENING GUIDES Get on a Composting Kick (Hello, Free Fertilizer!)

By Matt Kilburn

Quit shelling out for pricey substitutes that aren’t even as good. Here’s how to give your soil the best while lightening your trash load

GARDENING GUIDES Great Design Plant: Curl-Leaf Mountain Mahogany, an Easy Evergreen

By Jocelyn H. Chilvers

Use it as an accent plant or mass it as a screen; this pine and spruce alternative is a hard worker in dry, cold climates

Sponsored

Dream Baths by Kitchen Kraft

12 Reviews

Your Custom Bath Designers & Remodelers in Columbus I 10X Best Houzz

More Discussions

too little sun for UC Verde, or other buff? zone 22

6

pruning fig tree

2

What type of oak is this? zone 9b/10a SF East Bay

2

Is This baby Ivy…eating my shrubs…

1

My California Rose Garden 2024

57