I have moved plants cross country, not so bad. We had a bag of Hoya cuttings under the passenger side visor and pots of things in the back of a u-haul. Styrofoam boxes and coolers are a great idea, but we just tucked pots in the back of the uhaul wherever we could have them stable. Granted, it was a March move, so temps were relatively mellow. Still, upper Michigan to Washington state. Plants spent 5 days without light, and while they were a little sad on arrival bounced back quick. Yours should do just fine.

One important thing to note when moving plants outside for their summer vacation-if you move them directly into bright sunlight, they will sunburn (due to being inside for all those months). First, move them into an area which receives ambient light from the sky with no direct sunlight. After a week, slowly begin introducing them into brighter light-one hour in bright light, then a couple more the next day, etc. until they are left in brighter light for the entire day. I would make sure nighttime temps stay consistently above 55*F before keeping them outside 24/7. I think all of your plants (once acclimated properly) can stay on your sunny southern deck. Not sure about the air plants (tillandsias? I'm assuming?) though.

bluescitygirl I am not rude at all. I just answer you the same way as you commented to breton's post, using your exact words..."I am disagreeing with Breton2"... Ewwmayo posted even more info to prove the same point - did you pay attention to what he said?..."I took this thermal image a little while back and all the coldest days that winter. Outside it was around -18C or so. Inside, at the window frame it was -1C. My variety of succulents did just fine sitting so close to this window for several winters. The leaves were not touching the window pane. My coworkers and I were freezing!"... I know him, he lives approx. 100km south of me, and I have seen his plants. -18 C is about 0 F (you didn't bother to indicate if using F or C - it would be nice if you were precise, not everyone lives in the same country as you). I am not talking about hardy succulents at all. And FYI, I have been growing most of them for abt. 12 years, in cold z5 (and previously z6) and my windowsills are full of them. I hope I learned something in all those years - am sure I don't know as much as you do, but never lost a succulents from growing it on the windowsill. You sound very hostile for someone that just posted 1st time on this forum and doesn't even know who is who (female? male?...), how much experience they have and so on...I wonder who needs to ..." Maybe you and that other fellow need to go cool your assets in that freeze and chill"...

Spanishfly - It is possible and I have been doing it for a few years now. =) Below is one of the brightest days last week here with only a couple clouds in the sky. I use these PAR DLI measurements to check the difference between the natural light on my rooftop against my grow light setup. It easy to measure and adjust my indoor lighting because I only need to take an instantaneous measurement and calculate the daily light exposure in excel. Tweaks to my grow light distance and timer intervals are very quick. It is harder to tweak my setup outdoors because the light exposure is not so straightforward. I have two different sections on my rooftop 'greenhouse' - one for high light plants and one moderate light plants. If I add shade cloth, it only helps for part of the day because the angle of the sun changes too. Then I need a good bright day of measurements to verify that the 'worst case' scenario is met and satisfied. Here is some of the light data for one of my sensors that I've collected since 2015: Hopefully my approach makes sense. Actual lighting measurements, calculations, and trending was the basis for my selecting my grow lights and designing my setup. This fundamental issue of "when do I bring my plants outside" and proper acclimation was something I wanted to avoid completely. The whole idea is for me to bring my plants inside or out, whenever I want, and not to worry.