i have grown jade cuttings in poor mixes before, i would not let that freak you out. the poorer potting mixes for crassulas tend to hold more water, so i have gone two months between waterings(winter) i would let your new starts grow some roots, and then re-pot them if you like. i usually put cutting in indirect but bright light during the summer and direct light in the winter.

as for the color and size of leaves on your jade. i would assume it has to do with the lighting conditions. not enough light, larger leaves for more surface, darker leaves with more chlorophyl to produce more food.

Al's gritty mix would be like a crassula root vacation resort. where more common soil is like being at home and going to work. you know survival. crassulas are very tough in the sense of conditions, but for the exception of over watering.

a variegated jade is already a mutation, and i have seen pics of so many, the identification is not in the variegation, but in leaf shape and trunk color and such.

good luck and congratulations

Welcome aboard, Gray!

Glad to have you here to share your experiences!

While not everyone agrees on a particular Gritty Mix, we all agree that the mix should be Gritty! ;)
If you build your soil-less mix (no peat moss!) with durable, porous, free-draining ingredients,
your Jades (and most other houseplants) will prosper!

I would love to see some pics, if possible.


Josh

Thank you both. I've read many posts by both of you.

I wish I better understood the merits of different "gritty ingredients" in relation to what jade plants actually want/need. I'm interested in trying some turface. I believe I've seen your gritty mix, Josh, containing pumice and perlite but without gravel and turface. Is that right? Is there a reason for this?

And as for my leathery hobbits... should I immediately transplant them into a gritty mix once I've made some? Or leave them out in the sun in their current soil until the roots are better established?

Thanks again!

Gray

Well,
I now have Turface, so I'll be adding that to my list of materials. I don't have Granite yet, but I do have Quartz gravel. I am very excited about the Turface...the color is a great compliment to the Orchid Bark and red Pumice I use.

As for those Hobbits, yes, pull them out of that mix and re-pot them as soon as possible. Don't water them for 3 - 5 days after re-potting. This gives damaged roots a chance to heal (form a callus).

Always provide shade for newly re-potted plants. You'll save more leaves that way.

Josh

Thanks again, Josh. That all makes sense.

I just got back from Lowe's, and I was unable to find ANY of the ingredients I wanted. No pine/fir bark (only bags that said "bark" and wouldn't reveal what kinds), no pumice, no turface (not surprised), no crushed granite, no crushed quartz, no gypsum.

I'm not sure what to do now. I love my local nurseries but they are low on supplies other than plants and basic potting or top soil. Are there reliable online sources worth pursuing? I imagine shipping may be too expensive for me, though.

One last question. I picked up some mini compact jades the other day at Lowes. Four starts. Half are softer and leathery. The others are reasonably healthy, but may be headed in that direction. They are sitting in about 4 thimbles full of dirt, which seems to be bone dry. Is this underwatering? It seems the symptoms for both overwatering and underwatering are similar.

As always, thank you

Gray

Shoot, forgot to mention that Lowe's did carry orchid bark. It slipped my mind that you had mentioned using that right above me. Why might this be better or worse than fir/pine bark? If it's a matter of expense, I'd prefer to just buy that as save myself the gas money and time of searching elsewhere. Thanks!

Gray

(Someday I'll repay you with cutting or something if you'd like, planning on sticking around! :)

Gray,
I also had no luck at Lowe's for any gritty mix components but I did find a reasonable (I think) turface substitute at Wal-Mart - it's called "Oil Dry" (Al refers to a "Floor Dry" in the epic gritty mix thread) and it looks like unscented, generic kitty litter. It comes in 20 pound bags and it was about $8. I'm a newbie myself, but I think it would be a decent sub. Also, you can find good-sized bags of perlite at Lowe's or HD - I use that instead of pumice since I can't find pumice anywhere.

Ok, I'm too lazy to actually seek out pumice, but perlite seems to be fine! :-)

I'm not concerned by the dropping of the lower leaves, I lose hair as well, In Africa they grow in rock crevices, that should give you a clue as what they need, lots of rocks in the soil, I have even used crushed or broken left over clay pots, native soils, I tried turface and didn't like it stays wet too long. NO PEAT MOSS. You need a soil mix that dries out in a week. You may to fertilize with a week fertilizer once a week,AFTER YOU WATER. you may want to pinch back the tips to make a fuller top, or allow branches to form. It'a a matter of style, I can't tell you what to do only give you ideas, use common sense in raising this species, it't not fussy, all of the above posts give you enough information to raise a orchid of them, I must stop now I was told that my messages are too long and complete so no one reads them. Norma

Hey, Norma!
I was hoping you'd stop by!

Gray,
Orchid Bark is what I use. It is Fir bark. Even the 'small' or 'fine' size
requires screening, however.

If you find an "Oil Dri" type product, it must be tested before use. Soak a sample for
a few days to make sure that it won't revert to clay/mush. Also, soak and freeze
a sample, and then allow it to thaw. Again, make sure it doesn't turn to mush. There have
been complaints of inconsistency (insufficient baking) among these products.

If there is a Golf Course or Turf Supply nearby, they'll probably have big bags of Turface MVP.

Josh

Gravel, volcanic rock is okay, 1/4-1/8" gravel added to 10% organic bark. At the Huntington we use 60% pumice 30% coarse gravel, guartzeite, or volcanic rock. Where is Zone 8, you are telling me temperatures, what kind of soil do you have naturally? granite I hope because this may be used. Native coarse sand is okay. If it doesn't have nematodes. Make sure it is washed. Or you can get coarse builders construction gravel 40% make sure it is washed, then add the above as mentioned. 10% organic 50% pumice/perlite or volcanic rock as suggested. Hope my advise if good enough I done this for the past 30+ years. I lived in the same house for the past 53 years. Norma

Thanks for the tips zzini!

Josh, can you explain screening? I assume that is to remove fine particles and thus improve drainage... but I may be way off.

Norma, I was also hoping you'd stop by. I'm hanging onto every word you guys tell me. I'm aware of your experience, and would gleefully read a book all about your experiences raising jades. Write away!

Do you lower the ratio of bark to decrease water retention? And to more accurately replicate their natural environment? I imagine for optimal growth, you can makeup for any lost macronutrients with fertilizer.

I live in nearly the most northwest corner of the lower 48 (Bellingham, WA). There is plenty of granite here. My proximity to the ocean keeps it more temperate here than some nearby areas, as well.

Does "pinch" simply mean "cut"? Always right above the growth nodes?

Two last questions for you guys:

What are the foliage signs that differentiate between overwatering and underwatering (with jades)? Especially relevant when purchasing plants.

Also- as far as portulacaria afra soil mix, should that be the same? I was thinking more bark/organic material to increase water retention. What do you think?

Thank you!!

Gray

No, pinch is not cut, pinch is literally pinch off a bit of growth, pinch clear through using your thumb & index finger. This is what's meant when folks say 'pinch it back frequently to keep bushy, full growth'.

No, I think the mix should be the same for P. afra, which also needs to be fast draining.

Thank you! Why might pinching foster more growth (assuming its purpose is not just convenience)?

I found everything I need for a quality gritty mix. I'll be transplanting everything today, so the p. afra tip came just in time.

Gray