Jeff,I shoot with a Canon model 40D using a 100mm f/2.8 macro lens. The camera comes with optional operating modes...full manual, aperture priority and shutter priority. Of these options, I almost always select the aperture priority. This allows me to select an aperture opening that maximizes the depth of field since I am usually as close to the subject as I can get. In this operating mode, the cameras software and internal metering selects the proper shutter speed to create the proper lighting. The other consideration is that I ALWAYS use the SPOT metering selection. The other settings measure the focus and exposure at a number of spots in the framed area and then averages all the readings to arrive at the focus and exposure. When shooting subjects that are only a tiny segment of the photo area, (flowers, caterpillars, butterflies, etc.), the SPOT metering selection causes your camera to use ONLY the subject in the dead center of the frame, which in our case is usually a small and centered portion of the frame. I also shoot, using the EV (Exposure Value) on most of my shots. My EV settings are usually -1/3, -2/3, and -1. I shoot three exposures of almost everything I shoot, one at each EV setting. The final thing is that I shoot LOTS of photos...about 10,000 exposures per year. I don't keep any that I consider below standards. Finally, 99% of my photos are shot using a tripod. Elimination of camera "blur" will dramatically improve the quality of the results obtained. Most digital cameras of today have all these options, and more, to assist in getting the shots to your liking. I also use Photoshop to edit my photos after they are downloaded to my computer...depending on the version, the exposure can be altered after it is shot to "Some" degree. I hope this helps some.

I found one just like that as I recall - it turned out to be a moth. I can't quite find the right picture, but it might be the Bilobed Looper moth.

I'm live in PA and agree with mostone about the tropical milkweed. It's the only kind I have here anymore. I don't have to worry about it spreading all over the place, the butterflies prefer it here to any other milkweed I've tried, and it blooms up until the frost. That takes care of the Monarchs. Now, it just depends what kind of butterflies you want to attract and you can go from there with what kind of plants to plant. Both Black Swallowtails and Giant Swallowtails lay their eggs on rue (make sure it's Ruta graveolens). False nettle is a host plant for Red Admirals, Question Marks, and Eastern Commas. Cassia hebecarpa is host for Clouded Sulphurs, Clouded Sulphurs, Little Yellows, and Sleepy Oranges. Lupinus perennis is host for various types of butterflies. Violets are a host for various types of fritillaries. The Variegated Fritillary cats will also eat passionvine (as does the Gulf Fritillary, but you probably don't get those there). Baptisia australis (wild indigo) hosts a bunch of different kinds of butterfly cats. If you want to attract Zebra Swallowtails, plant paw paw trees, and you'll have the bonus of getting fruit from them. I could name many more garden plants, bushes and trees for you that are butterfly host plants, but I really don't know what you're looking to attract. For nectar plants I highly recommend Verbena bonariensis, which is a prolific seeder, but the butterflies just love it. I get more butterflies and a greater variety of them on that plant than any other kind that I have in the garden. Today I had dozens of Common Buckeyes and skippers on mine. Cathy

They could be in a state of changing, or your plants could have a chemical on them. Where did you purchase? Never buy from anyone but a local nursery, preferably one that specializes in butterflies.