My guess, off the top, would be a pH induced Fe deficiency or the extra K interfering with Mg uptake. Try either adding an oz of white vinegar to each gallon of irrigation water or spritzing leaves with 1/4 tsp Epsom salts in a quart of water. I would do one or the other to see if it works, and then move to the untried suggestion if it doesn't. The response to magnesium applications would be fairly quick (within a week), but the response to lower pH may take longer. If one or the other works, we can figure out how to adjust your fertilizer program. Al

I have thought carefully about which zone USDA zone best compared to my area. Especially during the last 2 very mild winters! But most winters we reach temps of -10F. And every 3-4 years we have some periods were temps are between -15F and -25F. True most of the time the winter temps are between 30F and 15F and some very mild periods of weeks of temps between 35F and 55F. So I do not understand how they came up with the USDA maps to compare the climate here? It says the USDA zones are just guidelines. And I tell you the weeks we have temps below -10 F or the winters where the temps drop below -20F the Roses do not like it. And roses don´t care about avarage temps ...they are not annuals. A rosebush can grow fine 2 years with mild winters and really freeze back during the harsh winters. So I have to choose roses that will survive zone 5a winters and winterprotect the fragile chinas and teas I grow. I tell you even a few days of temps below -10F and the roses are goners...then it does matter that a mild period comes for some weeks before it gets cold again. So average does mot mean much .... Also I have seen the size of floribunda and Hybrid Teas in North Utah (zone5/6) and they had canes the thickness of a wrist and 4-5 feet tall. I have never seen roses grow that tall. Chicago where I have been several times ... has sweltering heat with temps between 85 and even 100F for weeks in Juli and august. My friends in Cold Iowa zone 5a have everything blooming 3-4 weeks before things bloom here (daffodils and lilics E.I) and quite hot temps months before it gets summer here. So it really is hard to compare. All I know is that one has to choose roses that can survive the temps they have in the area they live in. I have to anticipate temps below -20F. So that makes it 5a. Also the amount of sunlight must matter so the lattitude must be taken into consideration I live on 56 degrees N lattitude. While Chicago (zone 5) is on 41 degrees N (same as Rome in southern Europe) I guarantee you that the sun intensity that far south is much bigger than this far north and that it plays a big role in growing roses too... I just saw a zone 5 guy´s Evelyn roses in the Antique rose gallery ... it is nearly impossible to grow that Austin rose so big here. It freezes back to the ground every year here. That should not be the case if I really lived in zone 6b. So other factors must be taken into consideration than the temperature. Perhaps the higher summer temps and the greater sun intensity makes the roses grow bigger since the amount of sunlight also determines how tall a rose grows? But yes I am happy I do not live in Montana ...even though is one of the most beautiful places on this earth (and good troutfishing too!!).

I also have thick clay soil. When ever I have a bare root tree in the heat of the summer I plant them in a pot of good draining potting soil (I use Miracle-Gro potting mix) keep the soil very moist for several days to reduce shock (because they will go from water to soil) then you can ease off of watering when they start growing water feeding roots in a few to several days in the soil. and keep them in the pots until they start to show a little growth on the twigs. When you see a tiny bit of growth then plant them out in the ground. Don't leave them in a pot for long because they will become root bound which is not good for the tree. You can plant a potted tree any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. I think in a pot for a few weeks would be good then plant them, defiantly before fall comes so they can grow some roots in the ground before the winter cold and freezes. When you plant the trees out, dig or till a large wide hole 3 to 5 times as wide as the pot (but not deep, just deep enough for the root ball, this will help the roots to spread easily and establish) and plant the top of root ball about 1 inch above the ground so the root ball will not drown in the slow draining clay. Don't add soil amendments the tree will adjust fine from the root ball to the clay soil and also don't pound the soil around the root ball when filling the hole back in just lightly press the soil down with your hands around the tree while watering and adding the soil back. Then finally mulch the area with 2 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch to insulate the roots, retain moisture and to also give the soil nutrients. Keep the mulch off the trunk.

No, Ricky, I've had flowers, but no spiny fruits. I was only concerned after reading up on the tree. But 1 fruit in 5 years sounds like nothing much to worry about. But, I don't want to plant it where the dogs, chickens, or we humans could step on fish-hook-like thorns. None of us wear shoes(G). Was your tree good-sized when you got it? I'm wondering how fast they grow. Lisa